Brace and Bit?

[SteveHGraham]

I was considering getting a 10" brace (as in "brace and bit") for woodworking and whatever else it's handy for. They are dirt cheap these days, and you can get a whole bunch of auger bits for $100.

I'm wondering what uses other people have found for them. I've read about people using them on stubborn screws. One company makes one that has a 1/2" drive on the end, and you can put sockets on it. I don't know if there is a way to attach a 1/2" drive to a typical brace chuck, since I have never used one. I would think it would be easy to make something.

[BadDog]

Lots of companies make the socket drivers, they are called "speed handles". Some ratchet, but most don't. I've got one each in 3/8" and 1/2". Very handy, and very fast, if you have room but don't want to run air for an air ratchet. I've also put a hex driver on the end and used it to provide a fairly rapid but smooth feed using my compound cutting a taper. Beats the heck out of that little crank usually found on a compound.

For actual braces, I've got several of those too. Mostly from yard sales for $5 to $10 for (antique?) examples in great shape, though they sometimes call them "vintage" (etc) and the price goes up by $50 or more. Most of the old ones I've seen are a square drive 2-jaw socket, though I also have one with a common drill chuck. I've got a smallish non-ratcheting version that is near the machines and always a counter sink bit in it that I use for quickly deburing/chamfering holes. I used to use braces quite a lot before I got my 18V Makita LXT drill/driver set. If I needed a small number of (suitable) holes in the attic, or where power/air was not readily available, I often just used those. Now, I can't remember the last time I used the big ratcheting version. I also have a Cole drill, which is related, but not actually considered a "brace" (as far as I know?). Power feed and great for popping larger holes perpendicular through a frame rail. If there is room, I would pick that (for such tasks) over a drill motor ANY day. Almost like a high end mag drill, but without the magnet, or the cost, or the weight.

And as putting a square drive on one, I don't see why not. Long ago I took a cheap 1/2" impact driver extension and cut off the female end. I chucked that into a 1/2" or 5/8" drill motor to run up/off nuts and bolts, which I now do with the 1/4" LXT driver (i.e. not set/torque, just quickly run on/off). I don't see why it wouldn't work the same. But those square drive 2-jaw brace chucks don't really grip round shafts that well, so at worse you might have to mill a square drive onto the appointed extension piece.

[earlgo]

One company makes one that has a 1/2" drive on the end, and you can put sockets on it. I don't know if there is a way to attach a 1/2" drive to a typical brace chuck, since I have never used one. I would think it would be easy to make something.

Or, find an old Craftsman 'brace' with the 1/2" drive already on it. It is called a 'speeder wrench'. I have used one for years for running nuts.
You are probably familiar with the "Woodwright Shop" on PBS. Roy Underhill uses the brace and bits more than anyone else. They make much neater holes than a spade bit but not as neat as a Forstner bit.
--earlgo

[SteveHGraham]

I saw some neat videos of people using these things. They make (or made) a thing called an expansive bit. It's sort of like a boring head. You open a screw and adjust the bit, and you can choose different hole sizes. It's sort of like an adjustable spade bit. You would think it would be a piece of junk, but it makes great holes.

[spro]

I used to collect the odd brace and bits. Some are quite rare and/or have different features. There is an attachment which fits square jaw chuck config. which is pretty interesting. It is like a face boring bar and it will shave a clean dowel end onto another wooden shaft. All adjustable for the width. Another one is like a chain drill as it has a reduction screw built in. It pulls the drill bit into the work as the brace is turned. The best ones often had rosewood handles and pommels. Some had ball bearings in the rosewood knob/ pommel.

[mcostello]

Keith Fenner (You Tube creator) uses one with a chamfering bit to debur holes. Can be left setup and save even more time on parts.

[SteveHGraham]

I like the deburring idea. It's a drag, locating stuff under the spindle and swapping cutting tools. Three tools per hole, if you drill and tap.

[Inspector]

Some braces and adaptors.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 42337&ap=1

Adaptors that will work in a brace too. 1/4 drive too small. Take a socket extension and mill the end to a size you like.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 42334&ap=1

Pete

I'll add those are Canadian prices and if you change the country at the top to US you'll get the cost in your currency, shipped from their facility in the US.

[SteveHGraham]

But what if they're measured in Canadian inches? Will my sockets be compatible?

[Harold_V]

I like the deburring idea. It's a drag, locating stuff under the spindle and swapping cutting tools. Three tools per hole, if you drill and tap.

That's where a Wahlstrom chuck shines. You change tools without stopping the spindle. No big deal.

H