Topics include, Machine Tools & Tooling, Precision Measuring, Materials and their Properties, Electrical discussions related to machine tools, setups, fixtures and jigs and other general discussion related to amateur machining.
I assume we each have a large selection of electric hand held drills.
You can not own too many drills. Corded, Battery, small & fast, slow and torqy, hammering, reversible, 90* for the tight spot, plus the half dozen that wait repairs or fallen out of favor.
Especially for projects in wood, pilot hole, countersink, drive the screw, sometime different sizes.
I know, there are cheesy drill & countersink bits, but I do not need another dozen limited function bits.
I assume we each have a large selection of electric hand held drills.
You can not own too many drills. Corded, Battery, small & fast, slow and torqy, hammering, reversible, 90* for the tight spot, plus the half dozen that wait repairs or fallen out of favor.
Especially for projects in wood, pilot hole, countersink, drive the screw, sometime different sizes.
I know, there are cheesy drill & countersink bits, but I do not need another dozen limited function bits.
Well....that's good to know!
Cordless and electric, I have 7.
Throw in pneumatic....and I have another 6.
I have a couple of Ridgid Jobmaxes which are very helpful. I have them in cordless for convenience and corded for reliability. They have impact attachments which take 1/4" hex bits, and you can also use a drill chuck attachment. Nice for getting into tight places.
It would nice to find a decent corded 3/8" drill motor. My classic 3/8s, 3amp 1200rpm is getting awfully sloppy. You know, a metal gear case, 5amps, 1200 rpm. I find the they have gotten too big, too heavy,how else you get an 8amp motor, and too fast.
A man of foolish pursuits, '91 BusyBee DF1224g lathe,'01 Advance RF-45 mill/drill,'68 Delta Toolmaker surface grinder,Miller250 mig,'83 8" Baldor grinder, plus sawdustmakers
A neighbor of mine had a 300rpm handheld electric drill that was made to take MT2 bits.
I don't know how it was intended to be used, but when I borrowed into drill a 1" hole through a ship hull, I had a helper holding a 3' pipe slipped over the handle.
That thing would have flipped me upside down when it caught.
I have a 600rpm Bosch, but it's been signaling imminent death.
Don't you all just love flea markets?
I've worked on a lot of old [pre-war] barges; those things are assembled with thousands of 16mm [5/8"] hot rivets.
I asked my knowledgeable work buddy how they were made back in the day; he told me that one plate was punched before laying up, but the matching plate had to be drilled in place so the holes would line up. Smaller shipyards who built the ones we worked on [80' and smaller] had handcrank drills.
1/4" steel plate, thousands of 5/8" holes.
Anyone who thinks their life is tough should think about that.
Bigger shipyards [who built larger ships of thicker plate] had powered drills, probably pneumatic, that hung on cables from above.
Harold wrote, "Decent drills are not soldered, staked or brazed, they are one piece."
Sorry I didn't catch that. I was stuck on how one could cost-effectively make a 1 piece hex shanked drill. I was indeed referring to a standard 1/4" hex shank with drills fitted therein. I spun a 5/32 drill ( read not staked properly) while drilling a 2x4. Wasn't even HF quality.
This, of course, is different than spinning a drill in an improperly tightened chuck. My bad for taking a tangent.
--earlgo
Before you do anything, you must do something else first. - Washington's principle.
I assume we each have a large selection of electric hand held drills.
You can not own too many drills. Corded, Battery, small & fast, slow and torqy, hammering, reversible, 90* for the tight spot, plus the half dozen that wait repairs or fallen out of favor.
Especially for projects in wood, pilot hole, countersink, drive the screw, sometime different sizes.
I know, there are cheesy drill & countersink bits, but I do not need another dozen limited function bits.
I have a bunch of drill motors, electric, pneumatic and battery, including this monster 3/4" Black & Decker that my Dad is holding. I inherited this from my Uncle. I am afraid to use it as I feel this would tear a body part off if it hung up the bit. Really and truly I am not even sure why I would need to use it.
Attachments
Rick
“We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give." Sir Winston Leonard Spencer Churchill (1874-1965)
"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading". Unknown
Murphy's Law: " If it can go wrong it will"
O-Tool's Corollary: "Murphy was entirely too optimistic"
Cool!
We had a B&D like that at a job I was at years ago. We used it for drilling timber, and always did it with two people. It came from a previous job, so it was at least a 60's vintage, or before.
Also, we had a longer piece of pipe in the top than that!
Wasn't near so shiny as your's...that's for sure! Did a lot of work....cribbing, tri-pods for the diamond drillers....whatever. Seriously heavy duty.
liveaboard wrote: ↑Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:49 pm
A neighbor of mine had a 300rpm handheld electric drill that was made to take MT2 bits.
I don't know how it was intended to be used, but when I borrowed into drill a 1" hole through a ship hull, I had a helper holding a 3' pipe slipped over the handle.
That thing would have flipped me upside down when it caught.
The old Milwaukee hole shooter could do the same thing.
I've got an old all metal 5/8" (chuck) B&D from the 60s. Even at that size, if it catches the bit, it's best just to let it go. It could easily break bones. Every time I've had to use it in cramped spaces, I always try to keep anything connected to me well out of the recoil line and prepare myself to let go without fighting it (too much).
I recall that releasing the trigger didn't really stop it. There was so much torque momentum inside that ...also I recall that your finger Could Be lodged into the handle or guard. Well, we have experienced that with even smaller drill motors where it traps your hand between a frame. Something about the back of the hand being crushed like that. There is slight release but also a paralysis to where I just had to jerk the hand Out.
Rick's Dad is holding one similar but I don't recall the nose that long. I think something else is there and maybe a torque limit, MT socket or as Warmstrong said, two people standing with the larger bits.
