R8 collet cleaning

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curtis cutter
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Location: Curtis, WA

R8 collet cleaning

Post by curtis cutter »

I noticed that on my R8 collets it seems that the drawbar wanted to act differently on each collet. Some threaded in easily some required some degree of force until that seated in the quill.

I soaked the threads in the collet with paint thinner then chased the threads with a tap and rinsed again. That seemed to take care of the different threading force being required. They all thread in quite easily now.

My question is whether I did right or wrong with rinsing the collet in the area where the tool is "gripped" with clean gasoline and letting dry? Is there a better cleaner to use for this purpose?
Gregg
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.
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warmstrong1955
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Re: R8 collet cleaning

Post by warmstrong1955 »

Never, ever use gasoline for a cleaner. It has a flash-point of -45f. (the point it starts making fumes) You don't want to become the Human Torch. Static...a couple of metal parts boinking against each other....any spark around the fumes....and poof. I can tell stories.

I use petroleum based safety solvent. Most have a flash-point of 140f and above, and are available at auto parts stores. (That's where I get mine for my parts cleaner) It costs more than other cleaners, but the high flash point is well worth the price.
They also sell water based cleaners. Expensive, and they do not work as well as the petroleum based at degreasing.

As far as collets, after I have cleaned & de-oiled mine, I give 'em a spray with silicone after they dry, so they don't rust. Good clean solvent will remove any trace of oil, and steel pats will rust easier.

Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
curtis cutter
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Re: R8 collet cleaning

Post by curtis cutter »

I just used about an inch of gasoline in the bottom of a small glass jar as a dip and was careful. I only wanted to do the last inch or so of the collet and not the threads. Figured minimal exposure but I hear what you are saying Bill.

I once passed a guy who was deceased in his front yard as I went in with a hose line to extinguish a house fire. Never clean car parts on the fireplace hearth with gasoline no matter how cold you are. That was probably 45 years ago.
Gregg
Just let go of it, it will eventually unplug itself.
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warmstrong1955
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Re: R8 collet cleaning

Post by warmstrong1955 »

Gasoline is bad news. I have a good friend of mine, that was using some in a pan to clean engine parts many years ago. Major burns from the waist up, including his face. And he never figured out what sparked the ball of fire.
I know others who have been burned as well. I told all their stories in many a safety meeting.

So....I won't do it, and won't approve. Not even a little. Not in any moderation. I'll use kerosene, diesel fuel, WD40....paint thinner has a higher flash point....no way I'll use gasoline.
It's not worth it.

Bill
Today's solutions are tomorrow's problems.
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Harold_V
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Re: R8 collet cleaning

Post by Harold_V »

warmstrong1955 wrote: Sun Feb 11, 2018 9:50 pm ....no way I'll use gasoline.
It's not worth it.
Agreed!
The use of gasoline except for its intended purpose (as fuel) isn't the wisest thing a guy can do, and for the reasons you've so well mentioned.

In regards to cleaning a collet, yeah, degreasing is a great idea, as is the cleaning of the draw bar threads. It need not be my any trick means, as even somewhat oily solvent will do the job nicely, especially if one has air at their disposal and the collet can be blown dry after cleaning.

Cleaning the tapered end of a collet is fine, but a light film of oil should be applied to the taper afterwards, taking measures to ensure it doesn't migrate to the gripping portion of the collet. A dry taper requires a considerable amount of force to achieve acceptable holding power, whereas a slightly lubricated on does not. I often wipe a clean, but oily finger on the taper just before installing. Makes a considerable difference.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
John Hasler
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Re: R8 collet cleaning

Post by John Hasler »

I put a small amount of antisieze on the outsides of my collets and wipe the insides with acetone.

Note that acetone can be nearly as dangerous as gasoline, though. If you are going work with open containers of it do so outside on the ground so that you can't dump the container onto your clothing.

BTW hot water and dishwashing detergent works very well for cleaning parts and tools when they need to be oil-free. They don't rust if dried reasonably quickly.
JackF
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Re: R8 collet cleaning

Post by JackF »

I just learned something new about collets I never considered before. :roll: :wink:


Jack.
SteveM
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Re: R8 collet cleaning

Post by SteveM »

I once used gasoline to clean my bicycle chain.

I will NEVER forget the chewing out that my dad gave me.

Steve
Downwindtracker2
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Re: R8 collet cleaning

Post by Downwindtracker2 »

Even solvent is a bad idea for cleaning roller chain. The oil has to get inside the pin /roller space. A much better idea is to throw the chain in a pail of oil, wait, let it drip off and then wipe. Spray chain lube works, just not as well.
A man of foolish pursuits, '91 BusyBee DF1224g lathe,'01 Advance RF-45 mill/drill,'68 Delta Toolmaker surface grinder,Miller250 mig,'83 8" Baldor grinder, plus sawdustmakers
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