Bandsaw downfeed control
Bandsaw downfeed control
My 7x12 Shop Fox has the typical hydraulic downfeed control found on these saws. I bought it a few months ago and only used it for the first time a couple nights ago. From what I can see, the needle valve is inline with the ball valve, and there is no way to speed the downfeed when bringing the blade closer to the work except to open the needle valve all the way, and the readjust it for the cut. Are there other models of saw that have a bypass for that? A friend of mine says I'm just too impatient, but especially when using a coarse blade on thin stock, it can be a real pain to get it tuned so it doesn't grab, so I'd prefer to not have to do it each time.
Dave
Dave
Re: Bandsaw downfeed control
You could swap the needle valve for a small lever operated ball valve.
Re: Bandsaw downfeed control
I think a ball valve might open too large too quick to be a replacement for a needle valve, but it's probably worth trying.
I got a Horror Freight one that a friend gave me (yes, he's still a friend).
Since I got it , I found that there are HOURS and HOURS of videos on how to improve them.
Steve
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Re: Bandsaw downfeed control
Add a ball valve in parallel with the needle valve.
Re: Bandsaw downfeed control
I like that. It's either open or needle valve.
Steve
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Re: Bandsaw downfeed control
I have the same problem with an old Grizzly 7x12 bandsaw I recently purchased - and had to rebuild. Very disappointing, as the smallest miss adjustment of the little hydraulic cylinder will jam the work and pop the blade off the wheels.
I have found the vertical position on my valve allows me to raise and lower the saw by hand. Then If I manage to reset the valve to the “correct” 30* angle each time, all is good. So basically have found two good positions for the valve - ‘up/reset’ and ‘down’.
I should try to put a stop in place to quickly find the magical valve setting to cut. But, don’t use the saw daily - only randomly a few times a year for many short cuts whilst starting some odd project, so not worth the time to properly fix this miserable design error.
Glenn
I have found the vertical position on my valve allows me to raise and lower the saw by hand. Then If I manage to reset the valve to the “correct” 30* angle each time, all is good. So basically have found two good positions for the valve - ‘up/reset’ and ‘down’.
I should try to put a stop in place to quickly find the magical valve setting to cut. But, don’t use the saw daily - only randomly a few times a year for many short cuts whilst starting some odd project, so not worth the time to properly fix this miserable design error.
Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Re: Bandsaw downfeed control
Huh, my 1930's Excelsior power hack doesn't have those issues. And it's fun to watch!
Re: Bandsaw downfeed control
That's what I was comtemplating. Looks like a bit of work to plumb it in, but I really think it's probably worthwhile.
If I wanted to go that route, I would just open up the needle valve all the way and just use the existing ball valve. The whole purpose of the needle valve is to provide fine control of the fluid flow. A ball valve negates that.
Dave
Re: Bandsaw downfeed control
Well cool but John H. already had it. Constructing a minor manifold could be fun using fittings appropriate, yet no real call for them in foreseeable future. Probably a support strut because operating the ball valve would loosen the thread seals over time. Slick concept.
Re: Bandsaw downfeed control
Second that "Huh?"
RN
RN