The Home Machinist!

See the pictures. Small steel roller with support frame. Wheel is 1/4" thick by 7/8" diameter. Attachment hole is threaded 1/4" by 28 tpi (NF). I installed them over 10 years ago to support the drum of a small concrete mixer and now they need replacing.

Almost certain I got them from McMaster. Can't find them there or elsewhere now. Tried search words of wheel, roller, support, guide, follower and more without success. There appears to be a logo on the device that can be interpreted at SX, 5X, XS or X5 depending how you look at it.

Any help appreciated.

Cal

No idea where to find that. I've had similar things and it ends up being faster to just make them. Inevitably, making them causes them to turn up the very next time I'm on the internet.

Dave

Looks like an insert out of a sliding door wheelset (most are v-groove, but some glass/cabinet/shower door are flat like this one). Possibly you took it out of a larger assembly from a local hardware store? I'm found similar, but not that exact one yet.

You could be right. I'll look into it. It's occurred to me that it might be the follower for a roller switch. Now if I can just find it for sale somewhere. Cal

Could you replace the roller with a skateboard bearing? It might need the mount redesigned but that doesn't seem that difficult. Skateboard bearings are really cheap and the outer race hard enough that it would take a long time to wear out one. I see packages of 10 for under $10 on Ebay.

It's the wheel that's badly worn. Mostly it's the center hole that's become eccentric. Nice thing is the device is designed so the center wheel is easily removed. So any disc of steel that's 1/4" thick x 7/8" diameter should work. So, yes, a skateboard bearing of those dimensions might work. Worst case, I'll cut a disc from 7/8" rod and drill a center hole in it.

Cal

Skate bearings are 22mm, or 7/8". They are slightly wider, but you should be able to make them work unless it has yup fit into a track which I doubt.

Found it! Should have remembered earlier, but when I used the search word, "yoke", it came back. The yoke is an easy-adapt clevis rod end, McMaster 2447K13. I vaguely remember I bought, rather than made, the wheel. Skate bearing might work. Dimensions need to be close: 1/4" thick, 7/8" diameter, 1/4" center hole. This time I'll make some notes and store them digitally with the concrete mixer manual.

Cal

The rest of the story .... anyone remember Paul Harvey? Fortunately, I've saved digital copies of my McMaster invoices for years. Once I found the purchase of the yoke (aka clevis end rod), I was able to go forward and discover info on the wheel. First I tried a 5/8" diameter rubber idler roller ... too small. Then a 7/8" diameter idler roller ... size OK, but rubber quickly wore away from steel core. So then I bought a 7/8" diameter 4140 alloy steel rod, cut off a 1/4" thick disk and bored a 1/4" center hole ... worked fine. I've found the remainder of the rod in my shop.

So what gave out ... the wheel or the axle of the clevis end rod? Look at the pic. Easy fix. Just ordered some new clevis end rods.

My family makes fun of me for keeping every receipt ... but sometimes it pays off.

Cal

Glad you going the receipt. I keep electronic copies of all my orders too. It's still a struggle finding the right one though. Can you find hardened dowels to use for your axle? Or maybe after x years it's just routine maintenance.

Well first one lasted 11 years. Main thing is to keep some spares on hand ... they're not that expensive ($8). Could stick a 1/4" SS clevis pin in the yoke. It might last longer than the pin that comes with a yoke. Cal

He who has the best paperwork wins!