Material for Small Vise

Topics include, Machine Tools & Tooling, Precision Measuring, Materials and their Properties, Electrical discussions related to machine tools, setups, fixtures and jigs and other general discussion related to amateur machining.

Moderators: GlennW, Harold_V

Post Reply
User avatar
ctwo
Posts: 2996
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 12:37 pm
Location: Silly Cone Valley

Material for Small Vise

Post by ctwo »

I was considering making a small machinist/grinding vise set. ~2x2x4" long. I considered some 1018 scrap I've had laying around, but figured something like 4140 would be better. Turns out, since I've not been playing much machinist lately, I don't remember steel prices being as high as they are and it seems I can buy a used vise for the price of the material I was considering. Is there something better to consider or place than speedy/online metals? Or would 1018 not be all that bad?
Standards are so important that everyone must have their own...
To measure is to know - Lord Kelvin
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...
Russ Hanscom
Posts: 1955
Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:10 pm
Location: Farmington, NM

Re: Material for Small Vise

Post by Russ Hanscom »

1018 is a bear to get a nice surface finish. An alloy would give you a much better finish and more strength, not that it is needed. I finds Speedy to be a decent source when I need to buy.
Mr Ron
Posts: 2126
Joined: Tue Dec 22, 2009 12:36 pm
Location: Vancleave, Mississippi

Re: Material for Small Vise

Post by Mr Ron »

Try a search on EBAY for metals. There are some good deals there. Also check with your local scrap yard.
Mr.Ron from South Mississippi
LIALLEGHENY
Posts: 363
Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2014 12:36 am
Location: Bohemia, NY

Re: Material for Small Vise

Post by LIALLEGHENY »

If I was going to build a vise I would use 4140 Heat treated....decent strength , starts around 85000psi and hardness 28-32 Rc. Much better choice than 1018. Ebay has a decent amount listed from various vendors and prices aren't to bad, plus most have free shipping. Most of what is listed is round bar remnants, so hope you have a saw available.

Nyle
User avatar
ctwo
Posts: 2996
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 12:37 pm
Location: Silly Cone Valley

Re: Material for Small Vise

Post by ctwo »

I've never played with 4140, so maybe just for the experience...

I've had great finishes with 1018. OK, I sanded the table but the rear faces are off the end here. I was just thinking it would get all beat up in no time.

Thanks :)
Attachments
diamond-IMG_0805.jpg
Standards are so important that everyone must have their own...
To measure is to know - Lord Kelvin
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...
earlgo
Posts: 1794
Joined: Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:38 am
Location: NE Ohio

Re: Material for Small Vise

Post by earlgo »

This is the type of hobby vise I have made for holding small parts. Both are made from 1018 plate, or whatever I had. The larger one is 1 x 2 x 5, The smaller is 3/4 x 1 x 3, but they can be made any size that suits your purpose. Clamping flanges or threaded holes or whatever can be added to hold things down. These work well on a magnetic chuck. Because of the length of the moveable jaw, there is no upward movement, and the moveable jaw can be clamped solid with the pivot screw.
vises
vises
hobby vise
hobby vise
--earlgo
Before you do anything, you must do something else first. - Washington's principle.
User avatar
ctwo
Posts: 2996
Joined: Tue Mar 27, 2012 12:37 pm
Location: Silly Cone Valley

Re: Material for Small Vise

Post by ctwo »

Thanks for sharing, and that is a more efficient use of material than what I was considering.
Standards are so important that everyone must have their own...
To measure is to know - Lord Kelvin
Disclaimer: I'm just a guy with a few machines...
Russ Hanscom
Posts: 1955
Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 11:10 pm
Location: Farmington, NM

Re: Material for Small Vise

Post by Russ Hanscom »

earlgo,

Thanks for the inspiration. I have a big old cheap drill press vise and the moving jaw keeps tilting up, clamping screws are underneath so it has to be removed from the table for access and tightening.

I flipped it over, drilled up from the bottom, counter bored the top of the jaw, tapped the bottom plate, and installed a SHCS, no more tilting! and it can be adjusted from the top.

Also found that the moving jaw only makes contact in the front half, which contributes to the tilt, but that is another project.
Post Reply