Adjustable Angle Plate

[jcfx]

I'm in the market for a pair of import adjustable angle plates so that I can mill a bevel on
longish pieces. I've looking at this one :
ebay link
It seems much more steady than the hinged pivoting ones.
Anyone own one and what do you think of it ?

[Russ Hanscom]

I have a similar, the challenge is in setting an accurate angle. For a standard angle, I have used one of the triangular pieces with a known angle and a level. Otherwise you might try a sine bar upside down with a level.

[SteveM]

This may be what Russ meant:

Put the sine bar on it in reverse (angle going the other way so that the top of the sine bar is now level).

I would then sweep it with an indicator until I got no change in reading.

Steve

[wally318]

First of all I just finished putting a new/unused 8 x 10" of the hinged version on a storage
shelf in my shop. When I first got it I loosened the hinge to check and has sat that way in storage
for a bit. So when I pulled it out of the box I loosened the bolt and leveled the table top
so I could store other things on top of it on the shelf.(very limited space)
And just like you wondered how tightly the nut/hinge arrangement would hold.
So when I re tightened the nut I stood on the edge of the table top and even gave it a micro hop.
It didn't move at all and the nut was not cinched down that tightly.
The hinge type are rated @ .0005" accuracy and the semi round tilting type not as accurate.
As far as dialing in the angle-depends how accurate is needed.
A real good set up would be using a decent vise with the size of angle plate you're trying
to set up and tilt the table till you get a zero reading with a DTI
If you want more accurate use a sine vise/bar with space/gage blocks to get required angle
and then set table as above.

[jcfx]

Russ, that's pretty much how i figured I would set the angle using a angle block,
a sine bar would be nice but that's down low on my acquisition list.
Wally318, I would think that accuracy would the flatness of the slotted table, I pretty much figured that
the arc is whatever it is from the factory, especially when the protractor is riveted on.
Accuracy isn't a huge concern yet, since I want to make a hatchet stake to use on a sheet metal tool cabinet.

[johnfreese]

Set the sine bar on the tilt table upside down (rolls facing up). Use a height gauge to measure the vertical distance between the rolls.

[tornitore45]

The tilt table shown is a piece of junk, I have one. For the few times I needed it it worked after much fiddling to get the angle right fighting a screw with a 10 degree backlash. 10 degrees of the table not the screw rotation.
You loos a substantial Z travel but is fairly rigid.
Being machined with an hatchet is difficult to set parallel to the slots.

[jcfx]

Never thought of the backlash on that Shars one, a good point !
Rigidity is a factor in my decision since my mill is on the 'light' side, looking around
I may go with a India made one without the worm screw, the base seems more substantial but I may be
in for a headache since I want to get two so I can clamp long stock and it's assured that they'll not be
matched in height.

[tornitore45]

Two tilt table multiply the set up complexity. Same angle, same X same Y both parallel to the T slots.

[RSG]

I may go with a India made one without the worm screw,

I have one just like your pic. The worm screw is useless for fine adjustments.

[ChipMaker4130]

. . .I may go with a India made one. . .

Careful there! The only thing worse than chinese tools/tooling is that made in India. It is possible to get good quality from Taiwan, though.

[jcfx]

Yep, I know about India made stuff, Vertex adj angle plates are out of reach in this point in time.