Sticking acetal tires on steel bearings
Re: Sticking acetal tires on steel bearings
Ooops, I get it now. They are wheels FOR a 3D printer. My bad. I thought he printed them.
Re: Sticking acetal tires on steel bearings
It's not just the issue of using sealed bearings to keep contamination out that's the only problem even on a wood lathe. Chips getting drawn in between the part and rollers are also an issue for marking the work. One of the tricks I picked up from Adam Booths earlier videos was he always used a loose fitting fairly stiff piece of card board on the work piece shaft between the cutting tools location and the steady rest rollers position. That just rolled around the work piece and kept the swarf from getting into the rollers path. Simple, cheap and clever.
Re: Sticking acetal tires on steel bearings
Interesting idea. I think I'll try that with just the plain bearings first. No point in tires if the cardboard is there!
Re: Sticking acetal tires on steel bearings
Torch:
Nope. They arrived ready to slip on the axle bolt and use them.
Truly a simple, inexpensive and replaceable item.
And they are serving well in their new role as locomotive test stand rollers.
RussN
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Re: Sticking acetal tires on steel bearings
You'd think so, but every bench grinder I've ever had used shielded bearings (no actual seal contact with the inner race) and they last a very long time. Same with my router and table saw. None of these were installed in a 'sealed chamber'. I usually replace with sealed, but I'm not sure it makes much difference in most applications.liveaboard wrote: ↑Thu Sep 09, 2021 6:24 pm You definitely need sealed bearings. Open bearings are only for inside sealed chambers. . .
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Re: Sticking acetal tires on steel bearings
I suspect the cutting forces generated would tend to drive the wood against the rear hard roller and help to mark the wood. Even a steel shaft run on a steady rests bearing rollers starts to show a burnished area. But there's an old gun smiths trick to remove dents and compression marked wood. Wipe the area with a water soaked rag for a few minutes until it's fully wet, then use a heat source like like the tapered tip of a hot electric iron used for ironing clothes. That heats up the water and some will start to boil. Because of the cellular structure of wood, the heated water expands the compressed wood back to it's original shape. Obviously you'd want to do so before any final sanding and finishing is done. And I'd probably want to wait a few days for the wood to air dry before applying a finish. For an excellent demonstration of just how large this effect can be, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEATei2wewY The music sucks and there's no talking so no audio needed when watching that. While he boiled the wood section he wanted to compress and then reboiled it to return the wood back to normal and took 4 days to do so. Already dry wood that has compressed areas can be returned to normal in just a few minutes. It's a simple and easy trick that not many seem to know about.
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Re: Sticking acetal tires on steel bearings
I have made replacement belt rollers for a Dremel 1 x 30 belt sander. A light press fit was all I used and the rollers have been in service for several years.