Band Saw Adjustment

[dgoddard]

While getting used to my new bandsaw and its Chinglish instruction manual, I encounterd a problem getting it to cut straight in a vertical plane.

The manual makes a big deal about having the guide bearings on the sides properly "snug" so that the saw will cut straight, but barely mentions that the blade guide head ( which holds all 3 bearings) is the major actor in getting a straight cut.

When I observed that probem and read the manual, the manual stressed adjusting the guide head so that the blade is perpendicular to the bed of the machine. That is all wonderful advice, but why they think that anyone could accurately adjust a 1/2 inch wide blade to be "accurately" perpendicular to the machine bed totally escapes me. [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/confused.gif"%20alt="[/img]

Without any special tools the perpendicular alignment of the blade and guide head is strictly a trial and error affair, complicated by the fact that the one bolt that locks the head adjustment not only locks the perpendicularity but also locks the position of the "backing" bearing that runs against the back edge of the blade.

Does anyone have a clever technique or an alignment tool that can help to get the perpendicularity right. [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/laugh.gif"%20alt="[/img] So far by trial and error, I have been able to get the blade to cut perpendicular within about 1/16 inch in a 4 inch wide piece. [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/tongue.gif"%20alt="[/img] I may not be able to do better than that but my inclination toward perfectionism compels me to try.

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Oh, by the way, does anyone know any reason that the instruction manual would be so admant about not cutting wood with this thing. They claim it would void the warranty! [img]/ubb/images/graemlins/frown.gif"%20alt="[/img]

[Rich_Carlstedt]

I am confused.
is this a "cutoff saw" used vertically or a true "band saw"
I ask, because
Most bandsaws use the table for perpendicular adjustments, and the blade guides, only lock in the true position of the blade between wheels,performing NO allignment operation.
Cutoff saws work contrary to this and must use the blades guides, since the wheels are at 45 degrees to the cut..

To note the true blade direction, it helps to clamp 2 six inch scales on either side of the blade. use a strong paper SPRING clip. the scales will diverge a bit because of the blade "set", but you will see the true direction when setting a cutoff saw.

[jpfalt]

The easiest way to check the saw line is to place a shim against the side of the blade behind the saw teeth that is .030" or thicker and then clamp a 6" straight edge over the shim. The straight edge is perpendicular to the blade and then can be used as a reference line to make the blade perpendicular to the bed.

On one of my machines it was a moot point as there were no adjustments other than machining to change the guide alignment.

[Doug_C]

Is this the blade it was shipped with?

A portion of blade drift can be due to the teeth on the opposite side of the drift being dulled for whatever reason. Contributing to the point of only cutting toward the sharper side. Even if you get it perfect for this blade. The next blade can and will seek its own direction.

For a 1/2" blade I would not expect more that .03-.06 per inch drift plus kerf. As is, you are well within something realistic for 4" stock.

DC