What do you call a castled washer

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Vern2
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What do you call a castled washer

Post by Vern2 »

I want to make bushing blocks, for threaded rods. Then secure rod with nuts that won't backoff. Looking at buying somthing to make a keyway at the end of the threaded rod and use a castle washer to secure nut.

Thank you for any advice.

Vern
SteveM
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Post by SteveM »

Not sure what a castle washer is, but to secure a castle nut, all you need is a hole through the threaded rod and a cotter pin.

To drill the hole, I would drill a hole through a plain nut to use as a bushing, Then, thread the nut on, centered on where you want the hole, lock it with another nut, and drill.

You might want to run a die over the threaded rod after drilling to clean up the threads.

Steve
Peter.
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Post by Peter. »

Do you mean a tab washer? They use a slot in the shaft and external tabs to lock a nut.
Lew Hartswick
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Post by Lew Hartswick »

Peter. wrote:Do you mean a tab washer? They use a slot in the shaft and external tabs to lock a nut.
Ah maybe that is what he means. I couldn't figure out what a "castle washer"
was. Never heard or saw the term.
I just made an axle and had to do the two cotter holes for the castle nuts.
Actually the term is (at least use to be) Castleated .
...Lew...
robbieknobbie
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Post by robbieknobbie »

Do you mean the type of washer used with a nocknut (like the ones at http://www.whittet-higgins.com )?

You could also consider Flexloc type nuts which are similar to nylon inserted nuts but the lock is MUCH stronger and they're re-usable.
RickBarb
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Post by RickBarb »

I suspect the correct word is "castellated" and not castle

Rick
jim rozen
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Post by jim rozen »

If you really want the fasteners to not move, forget all the nonsense
and apply red locktite. This will be about ten thousand times faster
than cutting keyways on the threads with a router bit.

Jim
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coal miner
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Post by coal miner »

+ 1 , Jim !!
The more I learn , The more I don't know !
Richard-TX
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Post by Richard-TX »

jim rozen wrote:If you really want the fasteners to not move, forget all the nonsense
and apply red locktite.
That works great until you have to disassemble it.

Far too many people substitute loctite red instead of applying good machining and engineering practices.
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Harold_V
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Post by Harold_V »

Richard-TX wrote:Far too many people substitute loctite red instead of applying good machining and engineering practices.
While that's not a popular stance, it tends to go along with my thoughts, too. I'm not a Loc-Tite® fan, although I do feel it has a place.

Harold
jim rozen
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Post by jim rozen »

There's an excellent book that discusses this in considerable detail. It's
Carroll Smith's book "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing" and I strongly
reccomend it.

Among other subjects, he talks about how to lock fasteners in an
absolute, positive way. The kind of way to do it, if a life depends on it,
in racing and in aviation.

The short story is, split washers are no good. Wave washers are no
good. Tab washers into a slot are no good. Prevailing torque nuts
are not bad. Nyloc nuts are not bad. Cotter pins through a castle nut
are pretty good. Safety wire is very good. Thread locking compounds
used correctly, are very good.

But the book has a huge amount of other information involving threads,
stress concentration, fastener types, and lots more. It's inexpensive
and well worth the read.

Jim
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GlennW
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Post by GlennW »

According to Loctite®, the only thing that works is Loctite®. (Imagine that!)

The world was turning a long time before they started making products.

I've yet to see a properly installed lock tab fail under it's recommended use/conditions.

I prefer the tabs, as I can visually inspect them for security. If someone has replaced the tabs with Loctite® I have no way to inspect the security other than to loosen and re-install the fastener to determine it's securing method.

For that reason, I don't use it.
Glenn

Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
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