Trying to ID this older lathe
Trying to ID this older lathe
I found this lathe for sale, guessing it's an estate as the person is unable to answer any questions about it or find a nameplate. It's a days drive away and I don't want to go until I know what this is.
Could somebody please help me figure out what this is?
Thank you
Could somebody please help me figure out what this is?
Thank you
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- Posts: 2366
- Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2009 9:33 pm
- Location: Phoenix ,AZ
Re: Trying to ID this older lathe
Big RED flag missing the compound in the picture and jaws in the chuck. Looks like a decent lathe with what looks to be a hand oil pump on the apron. Looks European kinda. But like a lot of old lathes parts are tuff to find. If the compound is missing it would half to be almost free before I would touch it and I have the equipment and skills to adapt a different compound if needed.It's not a gear head or belt change looking at the picture so it must be some kind of vari speed.And not familiar with the QC box control.
www.chaski.com
Re: Trying to ID this older lathe
Interesting machine, with features that resemble a Monarch. Not suggesting it is.
The knob on the right side of the cross slide handle is used by Monarch (threading stop).
The carriage appears to be extra wide.
Individual handles for cross and longitudinal feeds.
Similar headstock design from the late 50's.
Please report what make it is if you gain that knowledge.
H
The knob on the right side of the cross slide handle is used by Monarch (threading stop).
The carriage appears to be extra wide.
Individual handles for cross and longitudinal feeds.
Similar headstock design from the late 50's.
Please report what make it is if you gain that knowledge.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Trying to ID this older lathe
Thanks guys,
I am still searching pictures and info on the web.
I'll let you know what I find tomorrow.
Cheers
PS yes I have emailed asking about the critical missing pieces, hopefully they are there, otherwise not worth the trip.
I am still searching pictures and info on the web.
I'll let you know what I find tomorrow.
Cheers
PS yes I have emailed asking about the critical missing pieces, hopefully they are there, otherwise not worth the trip.
Re: Trying to ID this older lathe
Glenn
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Operating machines is perfectly safe......until you forget how dangerous it really is!
Re: Trying to ID this older lathe
Thanks Glenn!
Waiting to hear if they have the missing pieces before I make the trip. Seems to have been well regarded in its' day.
Appreciate the help everyone.
Cheers
Waiting to hear if they have the missing pieces before I make the trip. Seems to have been well regarded in its' day.
Appreciate the help everyone.
Cheers
Re: Trying to ID this older lathe
I have a CVA #79 vertical mill/jig borer. It is built h*** for stout. It doesn't nod, but it tilts, using a giant worm gear and a worm, and a graduated scale. Much better than trying to tap a head into tram.
Only gripe is - one rotation of the Z axis screw is .200. X and Y are in 1/8" ths, .250 inches. C'mon guys, pick a side and stick to it!
Only gripe is - one rotation of the Z axis screw is .200. X and Y are in 1/8" ths, .250 inches. C'mon guys, pick a side and stick to it!
Re: Trying to ID this older lathe
1/8"
.125 inches.
Most likely knee movement? It's often less than the X & Y, especially on manual machines. Due, in part, to the fact that, unlike X & Y movements, you're picking up weight. The greater mechanical advantage of the finer thread reduces torque demand.
BP's are the same way. .200" on X & Y movement, with just .100" on the Z (knee)
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Trying to ID this older lathe
Yes, the dials are .250 per turn, so (2) 1/8'ths. I was trying to make the point that the X and Y harken back to imperial fractional measurements, rather than just using decimal inches. Having come of age in an aircraft shop, I'd prefer everything were in decimal inches with no "nod" to fractions. They make me batty. i.e, an F16 is XXX.XXX" long.
The fact that two dials are, and one dial is not is a bit of a bother. If the knee went up .125 per turn, it would be better than what it is.
The knee goes up .200 per rev. I'd be happier still if the table travels were the same.
But hey, for the price I paid I'll manage to cope. Mill was essentially given to me by a widow lady that I helped sell off all the tools. Single car garage, I felt like Howard Carter opening Tut's tomb when I raised the door.
The fact that two dials are, and one dial is not is a bit of a bother. If the knee went up .125 per turn, it would be better than what it is.
The knee goes up .200 per rev. I'd be happier still if the table travels were the same.
But hey, for the price I paid I'll manage to cope. Mill was essentially given to me by a widow lady that I helped sell off all the tools. Single car garage, I felt like Howard Carter opening Tut's tomb when I raised the door.
Re: Trying to ID this older lathe
I get it, and I tend to agree, as I've operated some of the small Gorton mills (an 8-D as well as an O-16A and Unimil), each of which have .125" screw travel for the X & Y. Makes it quite easy to work in fractions, but a real nightmare once you become accustomed to .200" travel screws.
A great deal depends on how much time one spends on a given machine. You get used to most anything---although it can complicate matters when moving to other equipment with different screws.
I've never been troubled by the difference between knee travel as opposed to X & Y. I also deal well with backlash, which can be a real bear if it's not well understood.
By the way, a nice reward for the help you provided the widow.
H
A great deal depends on how much time one spends on a given machine. You get used to most anything---although it can complicate matters when moving to other equipment with different screws.
I've never been troubled by the difference between knee travel as opposed to X & Y. I also deal well with backlash, which can be a real bear if it's not well understood.
By the way, a nice reward for the help you provided the widow.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Trying to ID this older lathe
It is a remarkable lathe. The jaws and compound missing may speak to a major crash. Notice at left, the stand of many face plates and stuff there is a Jacobs Rubberflex Chuck which means he had the collets too. Also I expect L0 taper of the spindle, maybe.
Re: Trying to ID this older lathe
I opened the picture by right clicking, which yields a large image. I can not see anything that resembles the Jacobs of which you speak. Looks to me like a cart of cast iron parts, with some of them resembling turbocharger housings. If I've missed the Jacobs, please point it out to me.
Don't think so. It appears to be a D type spindle.Also I expect L0 taper of the spindle, maybe.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.