Lathe table build

All discussion about lathes including but not limited to: South Bend, Hardinge, Logan, Monarch, Clausing and other HSM lathes, including imports

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SteveM
Posts: 7763
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Location: Wisconsin

Re: Lathe table build

Post by SteveM »

Glenn Brooks wrote: Fri Sep 18, 2020 1:49 am been looking for a baking pan for awhile. I found one at Costco couple of years ago - knew I should have bought two at the time, but didn’t...
Find a restaurant supply store.

They are called "jelly roll pans".

I walked into our local restaurant supply store and asked for a full jelly roll pan and they looked at me and said "what kind of oven do you have", knowing that they won't fit in any appliance store oven.

I said: "I'm not using it for an oven, I'm using it under a lathe to catch the chips.

I thought of taking two, cutting an inch off each end, overlapping them using pop rivets to hold them together with some epoxy or caulk in the seam, to make a full tray for under my lathe. Then you drop another one into that to have a removable chip tray.

Steve
Glenn Brooks
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Re: Lathe table build

Post by Glenn Brooks »

Moved the lathe onto the table today and started the process of aligning the later model, 1950’s countershaft and motor.
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This motor is an adjustable speed DC motor with A little digital RPM meter and speed control knob. I think I am going to move the optical rpm counter from the motor to directly read spindle RPM. Seems like it makes more sense to know how fast the work is actually turning, rather than the motor output shaft.
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Can’t help but claim bragging rights about the original factory scrap marks still showing on the bed- 95 years after it was delivered to the prior owner...

I was apprehensive about wiping it down, even with a soft rag and waymoil.
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As a final assembly detail here is a small 1/4” draw bolt I made up to secure the front edge of the side support through the table top. Turned a small #10 thread and nut on both ends to affix the side arm to the top.
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countersunk and inserted a wood plugged on top, made up a small angled take up washer for the underside. Lots of fun when these things work out OK.

Still have a couple of items on the punch list: drawers and drawer front, mounted immediately under the table top.

Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
pete
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Joined: Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:04 am

Re: Lathe table build

Post by pete »

That looks like it's going to be a real pleasure to use Glenn. My mill is the same with the motor rpm display on the vfd, I either run it at 60 Hz where the factory numbers should be close for each pulley ratio or I have to calculate what the spindle rpm should be. I really should add a cheap sensor and display to the spindle.

So that Sapele for the drawer fronts and of course hand cut dovetails for the drawers? :-)
Glenn Brooks
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Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Lathe table build

Post by Glenn Brooks »

yes, indeed. I’ll probably cheat and cut square joints for the corners and drive dowling through for strength. Yes, more Sapele for the front piece! Actually I have 40 or 50 board feet stacked up in the rain, outside behind the shop. Left over from an old boat project. It cleans up nicely, though. Trying to resist taking the back splash off and adding two or three courses of plank to raise it up high enuf to be seen behind the lathe. All that nice wood sort of disappeared when I dropped the lathe in front.

Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
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Steggy
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Re: Lathe table build

Post by Steggy »

You need to shine up the lathe to match the table. :D
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Music isn’t at all difficult.  All you gotta do is play the right notes at the right time!  :D
Glenn Brooks
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Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Lathe table build

Post by Glenn Brooks »

BDD, yeah, I know. It’s the original finish- Gilsonite I think. Which is kind of a flat sheen now after nearly hundred years. I haven’t wiped down with waynoil yet. I need to do that a couple of times before actually using it. That will take off a good bit of micro grunge. Then maybe try some carnuba wax... it might brighten up!

Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
LouStule
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Location: Washington State

Re: Lathe table build

Post by LouStule »

Real nice!
spro
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Re: Lathe table build

Post by spro »

South Bend 11" had a carriage twice as heavy as more modern lathes.
spro
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Re: Lathe table build

Post by spro »

I must appreciate the fine table for the fine lathe, It was More than fine and we know it. Sturdy heavy braced took sweat and may by tears. Aye! you got it done!
GeoNOregon
Posts: 3
Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2018 12:26 am

Re: Lathe table build

Post by GeoNOregon »

Something I have done on the last two machine tables I have built, (lathe and bed for T-Slot table of metal cutting beam saw), is sandwich salvaged marble between two layers of metal, (6061 T6, in both cases).

I spent 35+ years building and remodeling residential and commercial structures, and learned just about every sub-contracting trade in the process, (typically because a sub flaked out on me at the last minute, and I was forced to do the job, myself).

This was how I was first initiated into stone work. For most of my years, marble and granite was ~7/8", and sink cut outs, or mistakes were either free, or very cheap from stone suppliers. I've had piles of the stuff to use for all purposes, for years.

More recently, (last 10-15 years?), some fool introduced ~1 3/4" marble and granite, and since bigger is always better, customers now what the thick, material. (many stone guys I know they were not interested. The material was heavy enough, as is, I'm getting too old to wrestle heavier material AND have to buy new tooling, and they quit.)

The point being, the sink cut outs and miss cut mistakes now available free and cheap are the thick stuff. Sandwich a piece of that between two pieces of sheet/plate, and you have some serious gravity, and rigidity for mounting a machine tool on.

Between using the sandwich method, and a non-standard motor mounting, I managed to create a very rigid set up for a Sherline micro lathe, and am doing things with it, most Sherline users claim is impossible. It's definitely punching about its class!

Check out a marble or granite supplier in your area, and see what they'll give you to haul off, or sell you cheap to get rid of. I'm in the Portland, OR area, not a huge city, and there are 2-3 suppliers I go to, and get all the marble I want. One stacks their sink cut outs, and other stuff on the curb by their dumpster, with a free sign.

There is something to be said for a table to be simply heavy as hell, in addition to being rigid.

Good advice on the bracing, and a job well done, in execution. When I was but a teen, and being taught carpentry, one of the very first concepts I was taught was the value and strength of 'triangulation' in designing/building ANYTHING. It transfers completely to building non-structures, as well, as your thread demonstrates.

Hope this helps someone, if not yourself.

GeoD
Last edited by Harold_V on Mon Nov 02, 2020 4:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: remove undesirable language
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