I need help! I want a T10109 chuck for my lathe but..

[Fullautomike]

I want one of these
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Gunsmit ... ate/T10109

The problem is my lathe (Harrison M300) uses a D1-4 pattern back plate or chuck. Do you think I can make this
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-1-4-D ... ate/T10102
back plate work? If not got any ideas of how to get the T10109 to work for my lathe?
I want to use the T10109 so I can work on a shorter gun barrel through the spindle. Thanks in advance

Mike

[Richard_W]

I would get a D1-4 back plate and make my own. You have a picture already and it looks like an easy project. Just be sure you make the guard like they show in the picture for the extra safety factor.


Richard W.

[Fullautomike]

Richard, That might be the answer. I guess I have been shying away from making my own. I suppose I can make a better one. I hope.

[RSG]

Mike,

Do it yourself from scratch with some 1018 steel. I work mostly with Aluminum so if I can do it anyone can. If you have a mill you can do hole patterns and make it exactly the same as the one on the Grizzly site only in the D1-4 version. With the advice of members on this board I made a male test fit tapered blank to test the D1-4 female for proper fit before pulling it from the chuck. All you need to do is buy the pins or steal the ones from your faceplate while they aren't in use.

Here's the thread from a while ago.

http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/vie ... 42&t=90601

[Fullautomike]

Ron,
Thanks for the info and link. Right now I'm thinking of buying the back plate and make the rest. I do have a mill, and a rotary table, not sure if I need it for this project yet, but I need it for a project I'm about to start. I'll post pictures of that on another thread later.
Mike

[Fullautomike]

I got to thinking (trouble!) I have this D1-4 back plate or ?? I do not know what exactly it was used for. Only markings is "made in Germany" I think I'll start with this, unless you guys know a reason not to alter this part. I have to start thinking like a machinist and say "I can make it" instead of "I can buy it"

[RSG]

Looks like you could almost use it the way it is. Depending on the size of those holes you just need to tap them for pins.

[Fullautomike]

Looks like you could almost use it the way it is. Depending on the size of those holes you just need to tap them for pins.

That's what I'm thinking.

[Richard_W]

I think you will find the wall is to thin. Notice the wall thickness on the Grizzly one.


Richard W.

[GlennW]

Just machine up a "donut" that lightly presses into the bore and drill and thread it and the existing flange for the adjusters.

[gcarsen]

My personal opinion,,, used by it self it looks like an accident waiting to happen. you would be better of using a 4 jaw chuck. with only 4 points of contact , working any distance out would put force on knocking it loose or out. kind of like a u joint on a drive line. it holds in concentricity but gives no length support that a jaw would. plus with the brass nubs I doubt you would get enough hold or bite to actually pull any chips let alone thread or form tool work.
now if you had one at each end of the spindle,, that may be benifical. indicate it at the chuck end, and the outside end, it would be perfectly lined up. but still being able to hold tight enough to do any cutting with out it spinning in the chuck may be a problem,,
at least that is what i see and think from the grizzly picture!

[GlennW]

Grant,

It does use one on each end of the spindle so that the barrel bore is indicated in perfectly with the spindle axis.

It seems that the advantage is that it is much shorter than a chuck so shorter barrels can be held when a chuck would be too long.

Not a gun guy, but that's my take on it!