New member and Myford ML10 restoration

[spro]

Only trying to make a little point here. It has not been subjected to chemicals, he prefers an abrasive. So the wool makes sense. We've all used sandpaper,face it and that makes sense too. The question is how to Remove all film, all abrasive, without starting a reaction in the remaining paint/filler. Either requires normal precautions. Alcohol,acetone and brakecleen type stuff are useful agents yet need be away from oilite sleeves or bearings. Brakecleen will lift most paint but is great on bare metal. Probably a good wipe with alcohol. It is amazing how much stuff is picked up with an alc. damped towel over an otherwise "clean" surface.

[steamden]

Hi everyone. I soaked the top slide where the tool holder is mounted in vinegar since it's a small part and the result was very pleasing. The rust had vanished, after cleaning it in water with baking soda to remove the vinegar completely, so it would not rust again. I also started cleaning the apron movement part, which housed the manual gear to move it and the clamp for the automatic feed. I will be soaking these parts in Evaporust, since they are much larger.

[samthedog]

I use vinegar to remove rust as well but you need to be careful. Vinegar will also harden springs and thin parts making them prone to breaking. Any small parts that need to flex must not be soaked in vinegar.

You also had a question regarding repainting. You don't need to remove the paint if it's not flaking. You will however need to use a filler and depending on the damage to the existing paint, you could get away with a spay filler. the process is as follows:

1- Degrease
2- Sand with fine paper
3- degrease again (although not needed as thoroughly as the first time)
4- sparay or hand apply filler
5- sand smooth
6- degrease or wash with clean water or thinners again
7- Paint

I degrease often because nothing is worse than spots where the paint will not adhere. In my experience, if you are using an oil based enamel, this problem is reduced since oil paint is tolerant of the occasional spot. The degree of attention you need to detail with sanding flat is dependant on the type of paint you plan to use. The higher the gloss and the thinner the paint, the smoother you want it. This is why a lot of companies used hammerite paint, it reduced the required prep time by hiding the sins under the hammer pattern.

Paul.

[Harold_V]

I use vinegar to remove rust as well but you need to be careful. Vinegar will also harden springs and thin parts making them prone to breaking. Any small parts that need to flex must not be soaked in vinegar.

That's the result of hydrogen embrittlement. Vinegar does not harden, it simply introduces hydrogen to the heat treated parts, where it's readily absorbed. Its presence is thought to interrupt the slip plane of the material, causing it to break instead of flex. Occurs only on heat treated parts, but can be rectified by a prolonged roast at a specific temperature. I believe it to be @ 375° F, but I'm not sure that's correct. Be certain to research before you apply the roast, to prevent altering the heat treated condition.

Hydrogen embrittlement can be caused by any process that liberates bubbles, it's not restricted to vinegar.

Harold

[GlennW]

Vinegar is a diluted version of Acetic Acid.

The Mil Spec for a post bake is commonly 375° ± 25 for three hours.

[steamden]

I finally cleaned and de-rusted the parts and the progress so far is looking really good. I checked some of the machined parts and did not notice any wear on the metal. How or what tools do i need to check to make sure that everything is square or accurate especially the slides and way of the lathe? I do realise that it will never be as accurate as the day it came out of the factory, but i just want to see how precise it is at the moment.

Thanks for the feedback.

Den