Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

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ab4td
Posts: 16
Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2010 3:55 pm

Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by ab4td »

I have a little noise - sounds like a rough bearing on my Lagun FTV2, the spindle itself is smooth, so I have ordered a rebuild kit with bushings, keys, bearings, belts for the variable speed drive.
Only problem is I am doing this without any previous experience and the factory instruction manual is useless.
I could use any helpful hints, web site pointers, detailed instructions.
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millman5
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Location: West Virginia

Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by millman5 »

ab4td wrote:I have a little noise - sounds like a rough bearing on my Lagun FTV2, the spindle itself is smooth, so I have ordered a rebuild kit with bushings, keys, bearings, belts for the variable speed drive.
Only problem is I am doing this without any previous experience and the factory instruction manual is useless.
I could use any helpful hints, web site pointers, detailed instructions.
I've been into an ENCO VS head a couple times..
On the Enco The spring loaded pulley is on the motor & is the first thing that has to come apart to allow the motor to be removed.

Careful Operative word there is "spring loaded"

You might want to see if either ENCO Or Grizzly has a downloadable manual. Although it will not be exactly like the Lagun they will be similar I know both did have at least operator & part manuals. If you study the parts man. you'll learn lots.

The very top part where the variable drive is isn't that bad to get apart. Just work carefully & don't force things.

Be sure to sweep yp all metal chips etc. before you start in case you drop a small part chances will be better of finding it.
If it works Don't fix it....
ab4td
Posts: 16
Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2010 3:55 pm

Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by ab4td »

Those are good ideas. I have looked at the Lagun Instruction manual and it shows a picture of the Variable pulley system and it looks like they are fed by timing pulley from the motor but they don't show all that much. The Spring Loaded Pulley shaft appears to be an intermediate one. I will look for Bridgeport, Enco, and Grizzly Mill Heads to see how they put it together. I am building a table top with 2" inch borders all around to fit the head/pieces to avoid the problem small parts rolling off the table and disappear. THe new parts arrive on Friday and
I have scheduled some time with one of my friends for a second set of eyes and picture snapping for this effort starting on Saturday.

Thanks for the reply.

Jim Smith
JHenriksen
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Location: Roscoe, Illinois

Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by JHenriksen »

I rebuild mill heads regularly as part of my business. Lagun heads are a bit different than some of the others but its more the small detail things. The motor pulley fits a bit closer through the hole in the top of the head so getting the motor off is sometimes a bit more trouble.
I also may take these apart quite differently than some others here.

Start the teardown by running the spindle speed to its max high speed. This will allow the motor pulley sliding sheave to be at its most separated position.
I then remover the top bearing retainer over the spindle, the two shoulder bolts that control the speed regulating swash plate, and disconnect the chain on the variable speed adjuster from the bolt through the swash plate.

Then i remove all the bolts from the motor and the top of the head case. This allows the head case to be opened up and slid forward about two inches, and tipped so you can get your hand under the cover and on the belt around the motor pulley. Pull the belt off and then wrestle the motor out of the head case. The rest of the tear down should be quite obvious by then.

Another way to disengage the belt is to run the spindle speed to its max lowest and locking the sliding motor sheave into its lowest position (closest to the motor) with (2) 6 mm bolts then adjusting the spindle speed crank to high speed - (While turning the spindle by hand!)
This will allow the belt to loosen on the two pulleys and maybe allow the motor to be pulled.

The copper shims under the top bearing retainer are important for the proper engagement of the high gear/back gear mechanism. Do not run a Lagun head for any great length of time without this plate or its bolts in place. The clutch teeth can be severely damaged when the top spindle hub lifts up and out of engagement.

PM me if you want a phone number, I'll be happy to chat with you while you're in the middle of all this. John
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millman5
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Location: West Virginia

Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by millman5 »

John, from your description the Lagun must be quite a bit different Than what limited amount of repair I have done on a VS head. I'm glad you chimed in on this thread.
If it works Don't fix it....
JHenriksen
Posts: 286
Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2003 8:39 pm
Location: Roscoe, Illinois

Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by JHenriksen »

Every machine maker had little quirks that make them different from the others. Lagun has a pretty good design, they're just a bit tighter in the packaging of everything and that makes taking apart and putting together a bit harder.
An engine hoist that will raise high enough to allow picking the whole top half of the head of at once is another way I've tried. As it lifts up the head can swing forward a bit, releasing the drive belt from the pulleys. Then wheel it over and set it on a bench.
Nylatron for keys and Garlock glacier bushings.
hkcarbine
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by hkcarbine »

Ab4td:

Please keep us posted on your progress. I have the same model, and your experience would be good info to have.

Roger Q
AKA Hkcarbine
ab4td
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Joined: Tue Nov 30, 2010 3:55 pm

Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by ab4td »

The parts arrived from H&K yesterday, I am waiting for the Lubriplate B105 grease to arrive, so I can make a last attempt to quiet the
head down before I start the rebuild. I have cleaned the machine of any swarf. I have a piece of mdf to cover the table on the machine.
I have an adjustable height work table with a two inch lip to place the parts as I disassemble to keep pieces contained.
I should see the grease arrive by Monday, I don't think it will fix this noise, so probably Tuesday morning, I will begin the rebuild.
I will take pictures, and follow John's procedure for pulling the motor. I should also record the head noise in low range and high before I start.
JHenriksen
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by JHenriksen »

To replace the bushings on the front sheave, under the bearing carrier, you need to unscrew the lock nut and remove the carrier and bearing. I use a pair of die hooks or large crow foot pry bars. I always use RC 609 locktite to hold the bearing when i push on the new one. very little needed!
Check the fit of the keys in the keyways before you try to install them in anything. A file works for adjusting them if they are too tight.
The keys are held in their pockets with small flat head screws, find new ones to replace the old, sometimes they are broken off.
I install the bushings first then slide the keys into the keyways and mark the locations of the screw holes. I take the keys back out and pilot drill them for the screws, on a bench.
If what you get are too long, once they are in and tight, just file off the points sticking through the key.
Once these parts are back in place and before you reinstall the bearing carrier etc, make sure eveerything slides on the spindle extension hub. Sometimes light scraping or sanding the bushings is needed.
Normally replacing the keys bushings and belt will eliminate the rattling and knocking noises.
ab4td
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by ab4td »

I will get go after some loctite before I get started and a pair of bars. I have 4 keys in the kit from H&K.
So I am about ready to start in.
I really dont hear a rattle or clatter from the variable speed head.
Its more of a light growl, which leads me to suspect a bearing and that needs to be replaced before it could damage a shaft. There is the odd chance that its just gear noise from dry gears. Lubriplate must have sent the lubricant by snail mail. What is a good substitute for Lubriplate B105 or MolyKote 165X? Most gear lubes have a lithium base. Synthetic grease is available now. I am sure there is a very good reason for the specialty grease, but I'm not very savvy about greases.
JHenriksen
Posts: 286
Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2003 8:39 pm
Location: Roscoe, Illinois

Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by JHenriksen »

Grease, I use whatever the company I am currently at has used in the machine. For myself when I work on something I just cleaned out, I use Mobil 1 for spindle bearings and things like the back gear bearing. There are no real gear meshes inside the head. The low range is developed by a timing belt and cogged pulleys. The Lubriplate may actually be what lagun is intending you to lube the hubs and sliding pulley sheaves with. It only needs a real light film.
Most mills I work on have run for years without any tearing down and regreasing of parts. The bushings and keys are normally what go out not the back gear belt etc.

Once you open the top but before you remove too many parts, check the fit/ slop of the sheaves to their shafts and the lash the keys have in the keyways.
hkcarbine
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Re: Need Instructions for Lagun FTV2 Mill Head Rebuild

Post by hkcarbine »

Very interesting about the lube requirements. What is the purpose of the grease fed though rear grease zerk whick Lagun specs as Moblile TAC 375. I could not get in small quanities. Another poster recommended Dow Molykote 1122 which seemed to quiet my machine down. I have the same mill built in 1989. Bought used about 6 months ago.

Roger Q
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