I've had my used, 8" Phase II spacer collecting dust for a few years and now want to use it to cut 3 internal slots inside clutch drum, with my Bridgeport slotter attachment, on my vert. mill.. Now, I realize I don't know how to change the Mask Plates and can't get the manual to download from the site. I don't want to disassemble it anymore than needed.
Could someone give me a clue on what is involved??
Also, going to need some advice on how to sharpen the slotter tool since this is slightly different from a shaper operation. (and I don't even have much experience in that either!)
I expect I will rough out the notch with an end mill then use the slotter to square up the corners. (there is a relief inside the drum so the slotting won't problem.)
Ideas and comments welcome.
Steve
Phase II spacer. How to change Mask Plates??
Phase II spacer. How to change Mask Plates??
Jet vert Mill, Champion 12X30 lathe, Amer. Mach. Tool radial drill, 24X60 LeBlond lathe, Scharmann 3" Hrz Brg Mill, Steptoe 18" Shaper, S/B Shaper,B&S (No.4 36") Gear Cutting Mach., Verson 22.5T Press Brake, Enco 12" hrz. saw, McEnglevan foundry furnace, Rockwell 14X42 lathe, K&T 2H univ horz. mill,DoAll 16-2 Vrt. bandsaw,Canedy-Otto drill press,Buffalo Iron Worker
Re: Phase II spacer. How to change Mask Plates??
I'm not familiar with the Phase II, so I'm unable to comment.
In regards to the shaper tool, just think of the end of the tool as being the top of a lathe tool. You'll need side relief (both sides) and front relief. A few degrees should be plenty. Because you're going to be cutting corners, the tool should be capable of cutting on three sides. Based on that, you'd be well served to have 0 rake. If, however, you start on location and walk to depth, the tool may work perfectly well with positive rake on the front edge. The sides would than have a somewhat negative rake in relationship to the cut. If the clutch drum is made of cast iron, with 0 rake it should cut quite well. If it's made of steel, it will still perform to satisfaction. Observe surface speed recommendations for the material.
Harold
In regards to the shaper tool, just think of the end of the tool as being the top of a lathe tool. You'll need side relief (both sides) and front relief. A few degrees should be plenty. Because you're going to be cutting corners, the tool should be capable of cutting on three sides. Based on that, you'd be well served to have 0 rake. If, however, you start on location and walk to depth, the tool may work perfectly well with positive rake on the front edge. The sides would than have a somewhat negative rake in relationship to the cut. If the clutch drum is made of cast iron, with 0 rake it should cut quite well. If it's made of steel, it will still perform to satisfaction. Observe surface speed recommendations for the material.
Harold
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
Re: Phase II spacer. How to change Mask Plates??
There should be a 24 tooth spacer plate that came with the indexer. You can use that for spaces of three. Count 8 spaces. The masking plates are for doing production stuff. For a one off just use the 24 space indexer. You have to remove the chuck (probably threaded) and you can place the masking plates in position. Some are 2 , 3, 4, 6, 8 and 12 if you have the entire set.
Re: Phase II spacer. How to change Mask Plates??
I found that if I remove the bottom plate, 3 screws, on the back of the chuck spindle, I have access to the 24 notch plate you mention. To this I can add either of the other mask plates to eliminate the notch counting.
Thanks for the tips.
Steve
Thanks for the tips.
Steve
Jet vert Mill, Champion 12X30 lathe, Amer. Mach. Tool radial drill, 24X60 LeBlond lathe, Scharmann 3" Hrz Brg Mill, Steptoe 18" Shaper, S/B Shaper,B&S (No.4 36") Gear Cutting Mach., Verson 22.5T Press Brake, Enco 12" hrz. saw, McEnglevan foundry furnace, Rockwell 14X42 lathe, K&T 2H univ horz. mill,DoAll 16-2 Vrt. bandsaw,Canedy-Otto drill press,Buffalo Iron Worker