Where users can chronicle their builds. Start one thread and continue to add on to it.
That seems like a nightmare building a cylinder block that way. Save yourself a year of design/build work and years of frustration with getting it to seal and buy a cylinder block from Little Engines. Would be worth every penny...
Berkman wrote:That seems like a nightmare building a cylinder block that way. Save yourself a year of design/build work and years of frustration with getting it to seal and buy a cylinder block from Little Engines. Would be worth every penny...
You're right. I backtracked a little bit, and I did take a second look into the little engine's castings as well. I could probably make their light northern parts work, but the price isn't right. I think I've got what I need in the scrap pile anyways. I tried copying a welded cylinder block design I saw in Nelson's book there, shown in the attached photo. I'm not an amazing welder, but this seems achievable with a lot of modification to what's shown here. Worst case, I get practice welding and save up for the castings anyways.
I know CAD isn't the favorite method for drafting around these parts, but that's what they teach now. As an aside, it's actually pretty messed up how little they teach about dimensions and tolerancing in school. My boss lent me ASME Y14.5M, which we should have had in class from day one. On the bright side, that CAD stuff is pretty nifty. I found out through parts not matching that the erection drawing I have has a 1/2" vertical offset between the cylinder and driver center lines, and that the positions shown are not exactly halfway between TDC and BDC. Those two errors alone would have added up to 3/4 inch of rod length where I wouldn't want rod length.
"We'll cross that bridge once we realize nobody ever built one."
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