3/4" Scale J1e
Moderator: Harold_V
- JBodenmann
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- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Here are the results of a few hours in the shop. A nice little pile of safety chains. Making little baloney like this is really a hoot. I guess maybe it takes a lunatic like me to enjoy this sort of thing. To me there is quite a sense of satisfaction in this.
Jack
And here we have a chemically blackened safety chain in its natural habitat. Just another small detail to check off the list. Many small and large details remain. But then that's model building. Making stuff. It goes on and on...
See Ya' Later Alligator.Jack
- JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Thank you Dan. I'm heading out to the shop, there will be some snappies later
Jack
Thank you Dan. I'm heading out to the shop, there will be some snappies later
Jack
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Jack,
It's not clear to me what function that chain provides. Would you please define its purpose?
Thanks in advance.
H
It's not clear to me what function that chain provides. Would you please define its purpose?
Thanks in advance.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
In case of derailment..
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
…to keep the truck from turning farther from the track, and making the derailment worse.
Dan Watson
Chattanooga, TN
Chattanooga, TN
- JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Fender is 100 percent correct. The safety chains were to keep the trucks underneath the tender, when things don't go as planned. To me they are a cool little detail. Today I mostly buttoned up the corrugated bottom. This is a detail that I just like. I don't even know if the J1's ever had this corrugated water bottom casting. The early J's had regular tender frames with the tank setting on top and providing the bottom of the water space. Later engines had one piece General Steel Castings water bottom tenders. This casting was the tender frame, and also formed the bottom of the water tank with the sides and ends riveted on around the perimeter. Hence the term "water bottom". The first thing today was to put a slit in the corrugated bottom so that it could be bent An .020" slitting saw was used. The steel used was .030" cold rolled. Over the corrugations it measured .109". The slit was cut .045" deep. Six inches was cut, the work piece was re positioned, and six more inches until all the way across. Then into the box brake. And given a little kick. 14 degrees. Here is one bent and one un bent.
Fender is 100 percent correct. The safety chains were to keep the trucks underneath the tender, when things don't go as planned. To me they are a cool little detail. Today I mostly buttoned up the corrugated bottom. This is a detail that I just like. I don't even know if the J1's ever had this corrugated water bottom casting. The early J's had regular tender frames with the tank setting on top and providing the bottom of the water space. Later engines had one piece General Steel Castings water bottom tenders. This casting was the tender frame, and also formed the bottom of the water tank with the sides and ends riveted on around the perimeter. Hence the term "water bottom". The first thing today was to put a slit in the corrugated bottom so that it could be bent An .020" slitting saw was used. The steel used was .030" cold rolled. Over the corrugations it measured .109". The slit was cut .045" deep. Six inches was cut, the work piece was re positioned, and six more inches until all the way across. Then into the box brake. And given a little kick. 14 degrees. Here is one bent and one un bent.
Last edited by JBodenmann on Sat Aug 13, 2022 10:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
And here is the corrugated bottom is being fitted to the center sill. It fits into a slot in the center sill, and also the side sill.
See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
Here the side sill has been fitted. The corrugated portion was a bit too wide so the outer edge was zoomed on the belt sander until things fit. There are clamps holding things down to the welding table. The corners of the frame were TIG welded and then the corrugated part was zapped with the MIG machine every few inches sticking it to the center and side sills. This was on the inside which will not be visible on the finished tender.
And here we have the frame stuck together.
There's still a few things to do. The side bearings must be made and stuck on. Then there's the mount for the brake cylinder, and several mounts for hangers for the brake rigging.See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Jack,
Fantastic safety chains and in 3/4 inch scale no less.
For many years the safety chain theory was almost universal for most locomotive tenders and often right up to the end of steam service. The SP studied a few disastrous wrecks at higher speeds and discovered the safety chains were not what was really needed. They researched the subject and started to include derailment safety guide bars to the front and rear pedestal binders of the tender trucks which kept the truck frames lined up with the rails as soon as they dropped off of the track. It was only a few years before all safety chains vanished for the most part and the guides became standard practice.
The elimination of safety chains started in the late 1930 era and was completed sometime in the early 1940 era. Early photos show the chains and later photos show the safety guides. Some of the late steamers came from the factory with guides already installed.
Robert
Fantastic safety chains and in 3/4 inch scale no less.
For many years the safety chain theory was almost universal for most locomotive tenders and often right up to the end of steam service. The SP studied a few disastrous wrecks at higher speeds and discovered the safety chains were not what was really needed. They researched the subject and started to include derailment safety guide bars to the front and rear pedestal binders of the tender trucks which kept the truck frames lined up with the rails as soon as they dropped off of the track. It was only a few years before all safety chains vanished for the most part and the guides became standard practice.
The elimination of safety chains started in the late 1930 era and was completed sometime in the early 1940 era. Early photos show the chains and later photos show the safety guides. Some of the late steamers came from the factory with guides already installed.
Robert
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
you know to my knowledge im not sure about the tender bottom jack. i'll have to go thru my dad's hudson contruction album. im not sure what our 1.5 scale one has. definately not what yours is. but still looks great what you made.
Dan
Dan
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Jack, as always enjoy learning and seeing your individual steps.
at the top of page 78 ...
Thank you
Dave
at the top of page 78 ...
I can't visualize your setup? Is this a slitting saw in the mill or ?? The stick would have to be vertical ..JBodenmann wrote: ↑Sun Aug 07, 2022 11:36 am Here they have been zoomed off with a slitting saw. They will now be silver soldered to the side sills.
Thank you
Dave
- JBodenmann
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- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Dave, the stick of chain brackets was set vertical in the mill vise, and then sliced off with the slitting saw. Here is some more progress on the frame. As you can see here the truck side bearings have been fitted up. These are held in place with JB weld and machine screws. The brake cylinder has been started. The prototype had 18" bore and 12" stroke. So this little one has 1-1/8" bore and 7/8" stroke. That's a large cylinder. The cylinder heads will be held in place with #0-80 Tee bolts. The piping will be 3/32" tube. The piston will have a teflon cup seal. Have A Great Day
Jack
Dave, the stick of chain brackets was set vertical in the mill vise, and then sliced off with the slitting saw. Here is some more progress on the frame. As you can see here the truck side bearings have been fitted up. These are held in place with JB weld and machine screws. The brake cylinder has been started. The prototype had 18" bore and 12" stroke. So this little one has 1-1/8" bore and 7/8" stroke. That's a large cylinder. The cylinder heads will be held in place with #0-80 Tee bolts. The piping will be 3/32" tube. The piston will have a teflon cup seal. Have A Great Day
Jack