The headlamp mount has a tiny grab iron on each side. In the top photo a cross locking tweezer is being used to hold things for silver soldering. Very little solder is needed for this and in the second photo you can see how little a piece is needed. Now all I have is 1/16" diameter solder so to get a very small piece like this it is first hammered very thin with a clean hammer on a clean surface. Then a tiny piece is snipped off with wire cutters. Hold the piece of solder with tweezers, dip it in flux and set it on the work piece. Heat with a torch and it should flow into the joint. Before soldering the little ears on the end were just roughly shaped as the little rascals were hard to hold. After soldering they had the final shaping done with a file and then they were given a go with the jewelers buffer and a #400 grit brush wheel. The bottom photo here shows a handy little trinket that was recently bought. A micro torch, very handy for jobs like this. It was bought from Rio Grande jewelers supply. This is a great company and has a lot of cool stuff that us model builders can use. That's all for now. See you in the funny pages...
Jack
3/4" Scale J1e
Moderator: Harold_V
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JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
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Sandiapaul
- Posts: 567
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2004 8:04 am
- Location: Princeton, NJ
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Nice work!
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Asteamhead
- Posts: 582
- Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:59 pm
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello Jack,
What an amount of precise work for just one(?) piece
! Hats off!
Tools to help staying parts in place during soldering are recommended to every modeler!
Asteamhead
What an amount of precise work for just one(?) piece
! Hats off!Tools to help staying parts in place during soldering are recommended to every modeler!
Asteamhead
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- A cyl. cocks with tool for being silver soldered
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JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Thank you Sandipaul and Asteamhead for the compliments, they are very much appreciated. Asteamhead you are correct, making fixtures to hold things for soldering is an important part of what we do. What were you soldering in the photo? Here is a little trinket that was made for the Hudson, it's the auxiliary stack that fits in front of the main stack. The main body of the stack was a bit of a fiddle. It was turned round, annealed and then abused with the rawhide mallet while fitted over a piece of round stuck. It took a few annealings, a lot of looking, and carefull smacks with the mallet. Smack, look....smack, look. I finally got it to where I was happy with it and then made the base and soldered it together. The little ribs were made up and stuck on with crazy glue as this is just a master to pull a mold off of. Then it had a squirt of self etch primer a little sanding and some sandable filler primer. Next up is something you may find useful. The steps on the pilot have something like diamond tread. Its not regular tread material as instead of diamonds it's a bunch of pyramids. I just need a small amount, only enough for the steps on the pilot and a small step bolted to the side of the pilot. The third photo down here shows a lump of brass that has been put in the vise and faced off. The next photo shows a cutter that was made up from some hardened 3/16" drill rod. This was gripped on a collet in the mill and the bottom photo here shows it being used shaper style to start cutting the brass workpiece. You can see over on the right edge of the work piece where some test cuts were made to get the cutting depth and spacing sorted out. Now I am starting to work my way across.
Thank you Sandipaul and Asteamhead for the compliments, they are very much appreciated. Asteamhead you are correct, making fixtures to hold things for soldering is an important part of what we do. What were you soldering in the photo? Here is a little trinket that was made for the Hudson, it's the auxiliary stack that fits in front of the main stack. The main body of the stack was a bit of a fiddle. It was turned round, annealed and then abused with the rawhide mallet while fitted over a piece of round stuck. It took a few annealings, a lot of looking, and carefull smacks with the mallet. Smack, look....smack, look. I finally got it to where I was happy with it and then made the base and soldered it together. The little ribs were made up and stuck on with crazy glue as this is just a master to pull a mold off of. Then it had a squirt of self etch primer a little sanding and some sandable filler primer. Next up is something you may find useful. The steps on the pilot have something like diamond tread. Its not regular tread material as instead of diamonds it's a bunch of pyramids. I just need a small amount, only enough for the steps on the pilot and a small step bolted to the side of the pilot. The third photo down here shows a lump of brass that has been put in the vise and faced off. The next photo shows a cutter that was made up from some hardened 3/16" drill rod. This was gripped on a collet in the mill and the bottom photo here shows it being used shaper style to start cutting the brass workpiece. You can see over on the right edge of the work piece where some test cuts were made to get the cutting depth and spacing sorted out. Now I am starting to work my way across.
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JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Here is some more progress as cutting continues in photos one, two, and three. This is cutting like a shaper, the spindle isn't spinning. The mill was in back gear so the cutter wouldn't rotate. After the cuts were made in the short direction the cutter was rotated 90 degrees and the cuts were made in the long direction. In photo four a slitting saw is being used to cut off a .040" slice of brass. The last photo we have here shows our finished bit of tread material. The cuts are .040" apart, I don't know how deep the cuts are as I just adjusted the depth until things looked right. Nice neat little rows of pyramids. Now card stock patterns will be made to fit the pilot and then transferred to the tread material. It will be cut out and stuck to the pilot. The running boards have conventional looking diamond tread and this will be photo engraved.
Having fun here.
Jack
Having fun here.
Jack
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Greg_Lewis
- Posts: 3016
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- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Stellar. Are you just dragging the cutter back through the cut before moving over for the next?
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
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JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Greg you are correct. But before running the cutter back through the slot just cut the chips were blown clear with compressed air.
Greg you are correct. But before running the cutter back through the slot just cut the chips were blown clear with compressed air.
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steamingdon
- Posts: 604
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- Location: massachusetts,usa
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
diamond plate in 3/4" hard to come by, that's for sure. That plate looks FANTASTIC! very crisp detail. Another great idea.
steamer
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Sandiapaul
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- Location: Princeton, NJ
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JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Sandipaul is correct, the trailing truck booster exhaust went to the auxiliary stack. Also the air compressors, and I think the Coffin centrifugal pump for the feed water heater. Here are some snappies taken today. The top two photos are of a pilot step. It has some of the tread material that was made yesterday soft soldered in. This is just a master from which I will pull mold. The third photo is of the pilot with some more of the tread material stuck in place with some gorilla glue epoxy. This is some pretty mean glue. I don't really like using glue on actual locomotive parts but that was about the only choice here.
Sandipaul is correct, the trailing truck booster exhaust went to the auxiliary stack. Also the air compressors, and I think the Coffin centrifugal pump for the feed water heater. Here are some snappies taken today. The top two photos are of a pilot step. It has some of the tread material that was made yesterday soft soldered in. This is just a master from which I will pull mold. The third photo is of the pilot with some more of the tread material stuck in place with some gorilla glue epoxy. This is some pretty mean glue. I don't really like using glue on actual locomotive parts but that was about the only choice here.
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JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Here is some more. The top one is a shot of the beautiful Okadee smokebox door hinges that I purchased from Brian Keim. The bottom photo shows the smokebox front with the headlamp mount set in place. The layout for all the studs and nuts is finished up and center punched. The layout was done with a fine point sharpie and dividers. There will only be four nuts that actually hold the front on. All the other studs and nuts will just be dummies. The smokeboxes on these engines was very interesting with lots of detail. The Coffin feed water heater had a sheet steel cover that wrapped around the sides of the smokebox in front of the two stacks. Exhaust steam lines went in and feed water piping went in and out. Then there is the throttle shaft assembly on the engineers side. This is what the throttle rod coming from the cab was linked to. Then there is the superheater and throttle access cover with a gaggle of dogs with studs and nuts holding it in place. Also blower valves, one on each side. There was a rod going down each side of the boiler into the cab for both the engineer and fireman. The reason these valves were on the smokebox instead of the cab is that the blower was provided with superheated steam. This had the advantage that when the locomotive throttle was closed, there was still some steam passing through the superheater and this helped to prevent it from burning out. I am having a lot of fun making parts for the little Hudson. I am like a kid in a candy store, oh boy, what shall I make next.
See you in the funny pages...
Jack
Here is some more. The top one is a shot of the beautiful Okadee smokebox door hinges that I purchased from Brian Keim. The bottom photo shows the smokebox front with the headlamp mount set in place. The layout for all the studs and nuts is finished up and center punched. The layout was done with a fine point sharpie and dividers. There will only be four nuts that actually hold the front on. All the other studs and nuts will just be dummies. The smokeboxes on these engines was very interesting with lots of detail. The Coffin feed water heater had a sheet steel cover that wrapped around the sides of the smokebox in front of the two stacks. Exhaust steam lines went in and feed water piping went in and out. Then there is the throttle shaft assembly on the engineers side. This is what the throttle rod coming from the cab was linked to. Then there is the superheater and throttle access cover with a gaggle of dogs with studs and nuts holding it in place. Also blower valves, one on each side. There was a rod going down each side of the boiler into the cab for both the engineer and fireman. The reason these valves were on the smokebox instead of the cab is that the blower was provided with superheated steam. This had the advantage that when the locomotive throttle was closed, there was still some steam passing through the superheater and this helped to prevent it from burning out. I am having a lot of fun making parts for the little Hudson. I am like a kid in a candy store, oh boy, what shall I make next.
See you in the funny pages...
Jack
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