Tender Rebuild

Where users can chronicle their builds. Start one thread and continue to add on to it.

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ccvstmr
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Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Color Me Green

After applying the Flex Seal sealer to the tank interior at Chris's shop, it was time to give the tank exterior some more attention. Before proceeding, masked over the tank opening in the rear tender deck. Several light applications of Rustoleum gloss Hunter green (same green used on the cab when that was repainted during the new boiler installation) were applied while the tank sat on risers. Held my breath in the hopes I didn't create any runs. After using up 1 to 2 rattle cans, let the tank sit in the shop undisturbed for a few days.

Decided when dry, would take the tank back to my basement shop for the next steps. However, when I got home where there was better light, noticed a wavy or hammered paint finish. Hope this shows up here...

IMG_3714.JPG

OUCH! Best I could figure, this surface was the result of sand blasting the fiberglass tank. Without a gloss surface to reflect good lighting, the surface distortions did not show up sooner. When I mentioned the surface finish to Honest Dave, he suggested I get Minwax, indoor/outdoor, clear gloss polyurethane spray and simply overcoat the paint. Since the tender would be exposed to sun light, it would be better to have outdoor rated clear finish. Hopefully, the clear coating would fill in the low spots and reduce the appearance of the surface imperfections.

For this spray application, decided to turn the tender on its side so the clear spray would sit and dry on a flat, horizontal surface without flowing down the car side. Sprayed the back of the tender as well the coal bunker areas. Light spray applications were made in both the horizontal and vertical planes. When dry, the poly spray did in fact reduce the surface distortions.

IMG_3724.JPG

When the first side was dry, flipped the tender over to clear spray the other side. And when the 2nd side was dry, removed the masking around the top deck.

IMG_3730.JPG

Didn't take long to realize masking removal was a bit premature. When I examined the 1st side that was clear coated...paint mist got under the tank edges and settled on the previously clear coated tank side (DAMN...hate that when that happens!).

IMG_3744.JPG

Pulled out the newspaper and masking tape once again. Rather than risk a repeat of this type of surface finish, used the tank corners as a mask line and hoped for the best.

When this operation was completed (and glad to have that over with), stepped back to review the results. Compare the next photo with the 1st photo in this post for surface finish results.

IMG_3745.JPG

Considering the Minwax "treatment" a success, it was time to move on to the tender graphics. Will start with that next time. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
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Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Graphically Speaking

After the tender paint surface issues had been resolved and the clear coat thoroughly dried, it was time to move on to the graphics. Thankfully, tenders don't have that much in the way of graphics compared to freight cars with dimensional data and more.

Want to side track here for a moment. There was a Chaski inquiry not long ago regarding the use or preference for different types of graphics on our models. When the Rutland tender was built back in 1995'ish, the builder used float on/slide on decals...most likely from Robert Dustin. After 11 years exposure to temperature changes, the decal application started to crack and chip.

tender r-side before.JPG

Knowing that most railroad fonts are proprietary, you won't find individual RR fonts in computer word processors. Took the above photo to a sign shop that cuts vinyl graphics and asked if they could import the image into their program and "fill in" the missing white. Didn't know if that was possible or not. Gave the sign shop the height and width of the text. The sign shop returned with an ITC Bookman font that was very close. There were some minor deviations in the fonts, but close enough without making a major production out of this.

After using a fingernail to carefully scratch off all the old decal...and using WD-40 to help get under and loosen the decal surface...was able to completely remove all of the old decal. Probably used something like Windex to clean the side surfaces before applying the new vinyl. Located the centers and applied the new vinyl. Never looked back after that.

tender r-side after.JPG

Now with the tender rebuilt project, had to remove the vinyl applied in 2006 noted above. For the most part, the vinyl came off easily. The vinyl tore, but was still able to grab the edges to remove. In some cases, the vinyl pulled the original paint off as well.

Friend Chris, has a US Data vinyl cutter/plotter. This beat going to the sign shop every time vinyl graphics were needed. Only problem, I had to do the "weeding" (remove all the unwanted vinyl material). Use high powered magnifying glasses to see the cut marks and pull the unwanted vinyl back. Best to work in small areas so the loose vinyl doesn't stick to the desired graphics.

The text and numbers were arranged in the cutter program. Selected the font (ITC Bookman), adjusted the height, stretched the length as desired and copied/pasted so multiple vinyl strips could be produced. In this case, (1) "Rutland" for each side of the tender plus at least (1) spare. Same for the "730" loco number that would be applied to the tender tail end. I use the Oracal 651 vinyl. Believe this vinyl has a 7 year rating. Want to assume that's a life rating when exposed to the elements 24/7...which our equipment is not. Due to the vinyl thickness, the stuff is easy to cut and weed.

The fiberglass tender has a smooth surface in the center of each side without any rivet lines. As seen above, this area was perfect for the "RUTLAND" vinyl. While the original vinyl pin stripe might have been 3/16" wide, when it came time to rebuild the tender, opted to go with 1/4". The larger the vinyl surface area, the better chance the vinyl edges will stick and not lift. Have had vinyl graphics applied to a tank car since 1994 with no signs of yellowing or edge lifting. The car gets washed once a year, usually before the club annual meet.

From photos, knew where the stripes were located with respect to the rivet lines. Found some 1/4" wide masking tape at Menards. This was perfect for creating an edge to follow when applying the vinyl pin stripes. So used the 1/4" masking tape for the top and bottom stripes. Used regular 3/4" masking tape for the left and right sides.

Once the masking tape was in place and straight, started to apply the vinyl pin stripe material. The raised edge of the masking tape provided a "stop" to pull the vinyl against before pressing on the surface. Last thing you want to do is pull and stretch the vinyl lengthwise. Was surprised how quickly the vinyl stripe application went.

IMG_3742.JPG

With all the vinyl in place, the masking tape "guides" were removed.

IMG_3751.JPG

That makes one more aspect of the tender rebuild completed. I thought the graphics turned out good. Next time, will cover another aspect of the tender rebuild project. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
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NP317
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Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by NP317 »

Beautiful results!
RussN
ccvstmr
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Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

NP317 wrote: Sun Nov 08, 2020 12:04 pm Beautiful results!
RussN
Russ, thanks for the kind words. And in response to an earlier post you left, will find out how well the new tank sealer did when all the piping has been re/installed and the tender flipped right-side up. We'll get there soon enough. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
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Benjamin Maggi
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Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by Benjamin Maggi »

Looks great. And it is mighty convenient you didn't have to stick vinyl over any rivet heads. The big empty areas for lettering on the sides of the tender are very useful in that regard.
"One cannot learn to swim without getting his feet wet." - Benjamin Maggi
- Building: 7.25" gauge "Sweet Pea" named "Catherine"
ccvstmr
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Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

I Brake For Tenders

Before I get into the tender piping, want to side track again and explain how new brake shoes were made for the tender trucks.

Believe the tender trucks are aluminum frame Railroad Supply Corp. Bettendorf trucks. These were originally outfitted with ball bearings and vacuum brakes. Axle ends continued to slip out of a couple bearings and wore the journal opening. After filling the journal bore with JB Weld, new bearing bores were cut for the replacement alternator needle bearings. That started a series of axle upgrades over the following years. In time, the vacuum brakes were replaced with straight air brakes. Here again, borrowed the brake arrangement from Tom Bee. A set of brake shoes was made several years ago that didn't fit right. As long as the tender was down for a rebuild, figured this was the time to redesign the brake shoes and make another fabrication run.

Using a CAD program, it possible to design the shoe and select a pivot point to "swing" the shoe up to the wheel without making any chips. Once the alignment between the brake pad and wheel tread were confirmed, the shoe design could be dimensioned. Through trial and error, found there must be a lateral and vertical offset with respect to the axle center to get the brake shoe arc to align with the wheel tread. My previous attempt only brought one end of the shoe in contact with the wheel tread. Not good enough. Once the geometry of the shoe was proved in the digital world, THEN I could start cutting the 1/2" aluminum stock for the shoes.

Believe the most recent axle upgrade was done in 2016. So the first part of this exercise was to examine the axle ends for wear. Believe these were C1144 axles that were commercially heat treated to run these axles in the alternator needle bearings. With the Rutland down for most of 2018 for the new boiler, would estimate total wear from 2016 to present in the 300 to 400 mile range.

IMG_3018.JPG

Put a bead of grease on the end of a flat blade screwdriver and smeared that inside each of the bearings...then, reassembled the trucks. Don't need the truck dismantled for a "brake job". But while the trucks were apart, put each wheel/axle assembly in the lathe to "refresh" the wheel white walls.

So, here's how I went about making the new set of brake shoes {Disclaimer: your methods of brake shoe design and fabrication may differ.} After the new brake shoes were designed in CAD, could copy 'n paste the shoe to the side and draw a box around the outer limits of the shoe. This provides the size for the squared up 1/2" alum stock. At this point, the pivot point for the shoe hanger is located, center punched, drilled and deburred for the 3/16" diameter brake hanger pin. The location at the bottom of the shoe for the brake beam was also scribed.

IMG_3044.JPG

The brake shoe "blanks" were ganged in sets of (4), squared up, clamped in the mill vise and a 5/32" slitting saw used to cut the break beam slots.

IMG_3045.JPG

Next, it's time to carve the arc for the brake pad material. Years ago, made a fixture that bolts to a plate and mounted to a small rotary table. The fixture holds the shoes, one at a time, against stops and...the business end of the fixture is cocked at a 2.5 deg angle to match the wheel taper. The shoe is rotated past a roughing end mill until the cut reaches the lower shoe corner. The roughing end mill leaves a nice "corrugated" surface which helps to hold the brake pad material in place. When completed, the shoe blank is removed and a new blank inserted. To cut the tapered arc for either left hand or right hand brake shoes, the shoe blank is flipped and re-aligned.

IMG_3047.JPG

As long as there are flat surfaces at the top and bottom of the shoe, can clamp the shoe in the mill vise and cut away excess material on either side of the hanger, leaving 1/2" wide hanger arm. Notice too, the face of the brake shoe was scored using a band saw at approx. 1/8" intervals to help the epoxy hold the brake lining material to the aluminum brake shoe.

IMG_3052.JPG

From this point, a hole is drilled thru the saw cut slit for a cotter pin to engage the 1/8" thick brake beam. With a 5/32" wide slot, there's enough room to allow the brake beam to rock within the slot when the brake cylinders are extended/retracted. This method of braking is self adjusting in that equal pressure will be applied to opposing brake shoes. After the cotter pin holes are drilled, the shoes are taken over to the belt sander where the top of the shoe is "rounded over". This is purely cosmetic.

Next, it's time to apply the brake pads. Have used 3/16" thick clutch lining material for this. When the shorty passenger cars were built, Honest Dave had a large piece of 1/16" thick Kevlar material used in the automotive industry. Sheared a few 1/2" wide strips and cut to length. Used (2) pieces of that material per brake shoe to make an 1/8" thick brake pad.

Years ago, took some MDF plywood and cut several 4.125" diameter circles using a hole saw. Ran a 1/4" bolt thru the center hole and nutted that. Spun that in the lathe to cut a 2.5 deg taper on the edge. The circles (made 2 of these) were cut in half. These are used as clamping blocks after the the 5 minute epoxy is applied to the shoe and pad. Need to keep a close eye on this. As pressure is applied, the pads have a bad habit of sliding around.

IMG_3063.JPG

After the epoxy has cured, the excess glue "ooze" and overhanging brake pad material can be trimmed with a sharp shop knife. I run a piece of masking tape (electrical tape or duct tape) over the face of the brake pad material, sand blast the aluminum brake shoe body and paint. When the paint is dry, remove the masking tape and...you have brake shoes ready for use.

When installing the shoes, mind the tapered brake pad surface. Should have (4) left hand and (4) right hand brake shoes. As long as the entire face of the brake pad is against the wheel tread, you should be good to go. If not, you have the wrong shoe in place on the hanger.

Total fabrication time for a set of these shoes runs in the 6-8 hour range. Like most things, you get better and faster the more times you go thru this exercise. Have designed/fabricated/installed this style of brakes in other trucks including: Winton arch bar, Harpur arch bar and several non-descript trucks. Think there's a job coming up to install working straight air brakes in a set of Cannonball, cast alum side frame arch bar trucks for a caboose project.

As I tell people, there's no sense starting something if you can't stop. Once you get beyond having enough water for the boiler, need to have good working brakes (other than 2 size 12's in the ballast) to enjoy train operations. Happy braking. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2230
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Benjamin Maggi wrote: Mon Nov 09, 2020 10:31 am Looks great. And it is mighty convenient you didn't have to stick vinyl over any rivet heads. The big empty areas for lettering on the sides of the tender are very useful in that regard.
Ben, sorry I didn't respond sooner, but you're right. Made sure I didn't have to lay down any vinyl over the cast in rivets. Would add, those fiberglass cast-in rivets are a bit large. But that's what the tender had...and that's what I had to work with. Vinyl graphics can span small gaps like in wood siding, but the vinyl doesn't do well over rivets, ribs and other similar surface relief items. Thanks for your comment. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2230
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

PP - Plumbing Prep

Keeping the various water line functions organized was starting to give me nightmares. When all the tubing was disconnected as part of the disassembly, the tubing ends were labeled so the "puzzle" could be reassembled at a later date. Started by laying out all the tubing sections and fittings on a piece of cardboard.

The injector water feed and screen was going to go back in pretty much as is. That screen filter was one of the fittings that came up thru the brass plate in the tender bottom. The same for the hand pump and steam powered pump water feed. Those shared a common line up to the locomotive. The hand pump already had inlet water screens.

The axle pump water feed was one of those that wasn't well "anchored" in the tank bottom. This was the reason why additional ports were drilled/tapped in the brass plate. The old hole in the bottom of the tank was sealed with a plastic plug held in place with some Loctite Super Flex RTV silicone....and painted over with the Flex Seal. So when looking at the tubing layout, the axle pump water feed would now have to cross over the underside thru the center sill and bolster structure to reach the front tender pilot.

IMG_3574.JPG

The injector screen was pretty much "good to go". In the next photo, that's the injector screen on the left. The screen had 7/16-20 threaded connection on the bottom that threaded into a close nipple.

In the middle, was the axle pump screen and its flanged bushing mount. That wouldn't do this time around. Found a 1/4" to 1/8" reducer, a 1/8" male to female 90 and a 1/8" flare fittings. Now, would be able to thread the reducer bushing into the tender bottom brass plate.

IMG_3466.JPG

In the next photo, you can see the original flanged bushing on the left and the new conversion reducer with appropriate 7/16-20 brass nipple to screw the screen on to (gotta luv working with brass fittings). btw...there's a piece of stainless mirco mesh screen material that goes around the screen. The finer mesh screen is held in place with a couple O-rings.

IMG_3704.JPG

At this point, operations were moved back to Honest Dave's shop. The tender, now painted, clear coated with vinyl graphics and pin stripes applied was ready for the next step in the makeover. The tank might have been ready, but the tender deck wasn't. Wanted to provide additional mechanical tank restraint. Did NOT want the plumbing to keep the tank in place.

Already had the apron step on the tender front end to keep the tank from moving forward. There was nothing to keep the tank from moving to the rear or side to side. These last issues were resolved by using a 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/6" aluminum angle across the back. Had to shave one leg of the angle so it cleared the bottom row of tank rivets. Side to side restraint used a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8" aluminum angle to be mounted in the coal bunker, between the water legs and covered over by the slope sheet. All angles were sand blasted and painted with the Appliance Gloss Black epoxy spray paint. Two screws in each angle secured the restraint to the tender deck. The angles had to be installed before the tank could be set in place.

IMG_3766.JPG

The tank was set upside down on the bench. Took a Sharpie pen and drew a line 3/4" in from all the underside edges. This was the guide to be used when squeezing the Loctite Super Flex Silicone RTV. The RTV would not only act as an adhesive that remains flexible, would also seal any water leaks. A circle bead of RTV was used around each of the water penetrations and the brass plate. Later on, used RTV on the screws that held the hand pump in place. CAUTION: if you get the RTV on your hands, DO NOT wipe off on your clothes. You'll never wash it out!


IMG_3768.JPG

Asked Dave to lend a hand to flip the tender right side up and set on the tender deck. Had several critical points that had to align. These were the two hand pump mounting screws holes and the axle pump bypass return valve fitting hole. In fact, used a new fitting made for the axle pump stand pipe to align the tank with that hole. Think I used an awl to locate and align the hand pump mounting holes.

Dave suggested we clamp the tank to the frame. Okay, so we took some protective steps (towels) and applied a minimum amount of pressure to squeeze the RTV between the tank and deck to hold things in place until the RTV cured.

IMG_3776.JPG

Dave told me the next day the clamps were slightly loose...indicating the RTV had settled and the clamps did what we wanted them to do.

Next time, we finally get to install some copper tubing and make some connections. stick around...we'll get wet soon enough! Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
Kevin S
Posts: 81
Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2010 4:11 pm
Location: Rocklin, CA

Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by Kevin S »

You, can take a heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the vinyl to allow it to flex and form to contoured surfaces.
-Kevin S.
ccvstmr
Posts: 2230
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Kevin S wrote: Tue Nov 10, 2020 10:06 pm You, can take a heat gun or hair dryer to heat up the vinyl to allow it to flex and form to contoured surfaces.
-Kevin S.
Kevin...can't say Yea or Nay to that method. Personally, I avoid placing graphics over a raised surface. That applies to the vinyl as well as slid-on decals from by HO railroading days. The raised surfaces would distort the graphics. I'd also be concerned about putting heat to a painted and clear coated surface to get the vinyl to lay flat. Not saying it won't work, just that I have no experience to say otherwise. I'm the type of modeler that needs to see to believe. Thanks for posting. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2230
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

"Plumbing Time"

It's time to start hooking up all the parts 'n pieces previously removed for tank overhaul.

One of the 1st items to be addressed was the axle pump bypass valve standpipe flange fitting on the bottom of the water leg. Decided to make a new fitting having the following criteria: 1) 1/2" hex on top for a wrench grab for tightening (because hand access was nearly impossible), 2) a longer 7/16-20 threaded stud to be nutted under the deck (to be made clear shortly) and 3) 5/16-24 internal threads at both ends of the fitting to connect other fittings and tubing.

Started with a 7/8" or 1" diameter piece of scrap brass to make this fitting. Wanted a large flange as I was going to "sandwich" a piece of neoprene rubber between the flange and the fiberglass tank bottom to cushion the flange to make a tight seal. Here's the fitting that was made.

IMG_3778.JPG

Because of the space limitations in the water leg, had to screw the old standpipe in place with thread sealer to hold the flange fitting and use the tubing to hit the hole at the bottom of the water leg. Applied Loctite Superflex RTV to the flange and shaft threads, applied RTV to the bottom of the neoprene gasket. All surfaces had to be "wetted" with RTV if a good seal was expected. Then, holding the standpipe, fed the assembly down into the water leg and got a washer and nut (both stainless steel) threaded on the bottom. Reached in from the back of the tender with an open end wrench to hold the flange fitting while the underside nut was tightened. This helped spread the RTV into any voids.

IMG_3785.JPG

At this point, enlisted Honest Dave's services to flip the tender upside down. 1st thing to check was the RTV seal around the brass plate. The (2) holes at the bottom of the plate were from the previous hand pump and injector connection points. The 3rd hole...was for the new axle pump line and tank drain valve. This fitting went in from the bottom to minimize any lip inside the tender that would hinder water drainage.

IMG_3783.JPG

As for the rest of the tender underbelly...had a "clean canvas" to start with. If you recall the tubing and fittings layout from the previous post, had to make sure all the water connections were made at their respective endpoints...and intermediate couplings made as well.

IMG_3786.JPG

Solder was cleaned out of the fittings so all parts 'n pieces slipped together. Tubing ends were cleaned, filed and flux applied. Used some of the leftover 1/4" thick ceramic wool material from the boiler insulation to be a heat shield between the tender frame and fittings to be soldered. After a couple hours, the water systems were intact once again. Managed to install a "T" and 1/8" npt ball valve for the tank drain.

As the fittings for the valve and "T" were dry fit, put the trucks in place (upside down as well) to insure the valve and drain would not be an obstruction. Later on, turned the drain leg "inward" so the tender wouldn't drain on to the track or the steaming bay rail.

IMG_3787.JPG

Here's a close up of congestion where water services come thru the bottom brass plate. What you're looking at is: 1) on top (behind the valve) is the elbow and line for the injector water feed, 2) on the bottom is the hand pump and steam powered water pump supply that cross over to the fireman's side of the tender, and 3) to the left, is the new tap for the tank drain and axle pump water feed. The use of flange nuts allows tubing lines to be serviceable if future work/maintenance/repairs would be needed.

IMG_3794.JPG

Done yet? Not at all. There was still (1) more water line to form and install, a propane fuel line to run, air brake lines and a power cable for loco lighting. And that's where we'll start next time. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2230
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
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Re: Tender Rebuild

Post by ccvstmr »

Let's Wet 'er Down

Last time, completed most of the water tubing installation. There was (1) one more piece of tubing to cut and bend. That was the axle pump bypass return tubing. Before starting this project, went and purchased a 50 foot roll of 5/16" soft copper tubing. Turned out, only needed 6 to 8". Okay, I'm well stocked for future tubing projects.

The bypass return is a "Z" shaped piece of tubing. Needed a slight kick near the pilot beam to clear the drawbar mounting plate. The tubing also had a vertical elevation change to get from the end pilot beam to a cross fitting (used as a 90 from the original build) with a 5/16" close nipple. The cross screwed into the bottom of the bypass valve stand pipe. The "Z" piece of tubing would be soft soldered at both ends. Ceramic wood insulation used to protect the deck paint job and other tubing connections.

IMG_3791.JPG

Might have noticed, the original builder made his own 1/8" npt to 5/16" brass tubing couplings behind the pilot beam mounting plates. This allowed 1/8 npt right angle flare fittings to screw into the brass couplings and then soft solder the connecting copper tubing on the flip side. No right angle flare fittings were harmed in this process. Used Teflon pipe dope or Permabond LH 050 thread sealer for the flare fitting connections.

With all the water connections made, the tender was flipped right-side up. There was (1) more major piece of hardware to install - the hand pump. Decided to up-size the (2) 5-40 to (2) 10-32 mounting screws...stainless steel of course. With the hand pump sitting in it's place inside the tank, drilled thru the hand pump base, tank and frame. Other than plumbing connections, there are no other fasteners holding the tank to the frame.

After cleaning out the drill debris, spread RTV on the hand pump mounting recess inside the tank. Squeezed RTV in the mounting holes and spread RTV on the screws (yuck, what a mess!). Screws were installed. Nuts attached on the underside and tightened. Made the final water connection from the hand pump to the tank bottom brass plate connector...as original. The injector water flow control valve was installed with its loco connecting hose. Three more connecting hoses were also installed for the hand pump, axle pump and axle pump bypass return lines. All hoses were capped.

Drum roll please...time for the "Wet Tender Contest". The tender was rolled outside. Had estimated years ago, this tender tank holds approx. 9 gallons of water. Dumped about 5 gallons of water in the tank...enough to cover the hand pump.

IMG_3797.JPG

Dave and I rolled the tender on cart into the garage, closed the door and headed out for lunch. Upon our return, there were (2) wet spots on the garage concrete floor. The 1st drip was a hose-end cap that wasn't tightened enough (doesn't count). The 2nd drip was from a loose flare nut adjacent to the tender drain valve. NO OTHER SIGNS OF TANK LEAKS WERE DETECTED! I'd say THAT was a good test for the tank sealer!

The tank was drained in the driveway. Whatever water was too stubborn to leave via gravity was sponged out. Tender and cart were rolled back into the shop. And yes, the tender was flipped upside-down...hopefully for the last time to finish all the underside work. The first of which was, mask off various parts of the tender (including the tank) and finish painting the tubing and anything else in need of some fresh paint.

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When the paint was dry enough to continue work (about an hour), the new propane fuel line hose was installed. Used a dab of Teflon grease on the tubing barbs to get the tubing to slide on easily. Used hose clamps to secure the tubing on the barbs. The fuel line runs up the center of the tender frame where there are no obstructions.

Air brake polyurethane tubing lines were re-installed. These were cleaned with solvent to wash off years of "road grime". The original tubing barbs where the tubing was cut during the dismantling, were cleaned. Found it's best to cut the side of the tubing to avoid cutting nicks in the brass barbs. Teflon grease was applied to the barb and the old tubing slid into place. Air brake lines are color-coded: the gray tubing is the air reservoir line, the black tubing is the brake pipe line. Lastly, ran the 2-conductor cable for loco lighting power.

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Satisfied there was nothing left to do under the tender deck, Dave and I flipped the entire tender right-side up...and hopefully for the last time! Dave lifted each end of the tender while I rolled a tender truck in place. Installed a Teflon "fender washer" on the king pin. The tender was set down and the process repeated for the other end. Air brake quick connectors to each truck were screwed together. An "R" clip or hairpin clip was installed under the truck bolsters to keep the trucks captive if/when the tender was lifted.

The firemans's side water leg hatch cover was installed. Had previously sand blasted some #8 stainless sheet metal screws and sprayed those with red primer and followed that with clear satin spray. After the hatch cover was screwed in place, attached the axle pump bypass return valve. This too had been previously cleaned (glass bead blasted) and sprayed with the gloss black appliance epoxy paint.

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What else? The "bunker boards" and their respective holding aluminum channels were installed between the water leg corners and the apron step. No glue or fasteners were necessary. The bicycle computer was slid into place on its bracket. The coal bunker slope sheet was installed. One 5-40 screw held that in place. The front foot pegs were installed on the front tender pilot beam. The rear coupler lifting rod was installed. The front tender steps and rear tender stirrup steps were installed. Lastly, safety chain hardware was attached to the rear pilot beam. With the parts box empty, must have reinstalled everything that was originally on the tender. Was time to step back and take a look...

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At this point, was late in the year...already the 3rd week of September. Time to get the loco and tender mated for the 1st time since 2019 to see if there was any steam time to salvage for the year. The operating season would soon be closing for the upper Midwest states. Will present the "reveal" in the next post. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
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