Economy Box 'n Reef

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ccvstmr
Posts: 2235
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

Door Security - Part 2

With the contents of the box car secured for transport, can shift attention to the reefer door details. Once again, Precision Steel Car offers an excellent set of castings for a reefer door latching mechanism. The only part NOT supplied...is the latch bar. I cut a strip of .045" thick brass to make (2) .240" wide strips...that were sized to length to fit the doors on the reefer.

Years ago when construction of the reefer was started, I had reefer door parts available from the Mercer Loco Work reefer detail kit. Used the hinges way back then. Drilled out the mounting holes and used a couple brass round head screws that would somewhat look like hinge rivets.

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If you're looking to build a reefer or in the process of building such a car, take a look at the Precision Steel Car website. There's a view in their website that shows all the individual pieces, their function, the parts numbers and of course, the price. Can also buy a complete set of castings including door hinges. Still...you're on your own for the door latch bar.

After a little file cleaning and drilling all the mounting holes in various pieces, the door latch bar was assembled. All the pieces went thru a glass bead blast cabinet for surface cleaning. Glass bead blasting is not as aggressive as something like silica sand or Black Beauty grit.

Once all the parts were "cleaned"...they were painted the right proper color...Rustoleum Marigold Yellow and hung to dry. For small parts, stuck them to a piece of masking tape and hung the lot of parts in one group.

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Don't know how many times I took the door latch bar end cam off and reassembled. Seemed like I was always forgetting to install the parts in the correct sequence. Certainly, before the end cams were attached to the bar, there's a bar mid bearing that needs to be slid in place. That brass latching bar...needs to slide thru the mid bearing (and turn if you want the latch operational). 2-56 screws were used to assemble the latch bar and handle and end cams.

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Should have included this photo in the box car section. Here's a view of the jewelry clasps I considered for the door "seal" or "lock". Decided the lobster claw clasp on the right was too large. Took the clasp on the left and removed the ring used for the jewelry chain end. CAUTION...these things are NOT made for people with large hands and fingers! Hard to handle even for someone with small hands and fingers!


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So when the top and bottom latch receivers were attached to the car along with the mid bearing...set the door lock hasp in the handle against the car side to fasten. Some time later, went back to touch up the brass hex head lag screws that held the parts to the car body and add the door "seal". When it was all done, this was the result.

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Well, that's the last of the details to be attached to the cars. Next time, will explain what was done for the graphics. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2235
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

GRAPHICALLY SPEAKING

By this time in the project, all the details have been prepared, the cars have been painted, said details installed so they don't get kicked about. Was time for the last bit of effort to make these cars start "pop". The graphics!

Friend Chris purchased a US Data plotter-cutter years ago. Chris saw that I was usually running to the sign shop to order graphics. He wanted graphics capability for his own projects and needs. Of course, I was a beneficiary of that purchase. Besides, Chris can never have enough toys! The plotter-cutter came with a Sure Cuts Alot program for laying out graphics for the 12" wide cutter. Don't kid yourselves...the plotter-cutter might be 12" wide...but the usable/effective width is down around 10". This, because of the adjustable pressure rollers.

Over the years, had done enough vinyl work for other pieces of equipment. These were all single color and usually non-prototype graphics. Why? Railroad fonts are not normally available in word processor or vinyl cutting fonts.

The graphics desired for the Rutland box car and Northern Pacific reefer were a bit more involved. Decided to contact Connie Miracle at Miracle Graphics for assistance. Connie was a pleasure to work with and most helpful throughout the entire process.

First contact with Miracle Graphics was to explain my project and that I needed to match available vinyl colors with the paints being used. This was particularly important for the Rutland box car where there was green vinyl on yellow surfaces...and yellow vinyl on green surfaces. The Northern Pacific reefer was simple...black graphics on the sides and white graphics on the ends. Connie sent me several green and yellow vinyl samples from which to make my selections.

Following that, prepared a data sheet for Connie's reference for each car. Provided the car numbers, weight data and car dimensional data. Went so far as to provide dimensions for the large "RUTLAND" to the left of the door and the "Green Mt. Railway" herald to the right of the door. For the reefer... provided length and height of the arched "NORTHERN PACIFIC" to the left of the door and the size of the "ying-yang" to the right side of the door. After that, let Miracle Graphics do their thing...which included the vinyl "weeding" (removing all excess vinyl material from the backing paper). You have no idea how much time that saved!

Didn't know this from the start, but each vinyl set was provided with text for the car ends as well as the COTS (cleaned-oil-tested and stenciled) data placards. There were other graphics provided (that I didn't use) because those would have been more fitting for modern era equipment. And perhaps the best part...the cost. $70 per set (for these sets) plus $10 s&h. Shoot...would have taken a couple hours just to do the weeding. Considered the Miracle Graphics cost to be a bargain!

When the vinyl graphics arrived, took a yardstick and pen to draw a line along the bottom the text lines for reference. Where needed, located the center for a vertical reference line. These are used when applying the pieces of graphics to the car surfaces with masking tape to measure (and record) the reference lines with known edges on the cars. The same location dimensions are then be used for the other side of the cars.

Once position, use the top edge of the graphics piece and secure that with one long strip of masking tape. The graphics section is lifted along the taped edge so the backing paper can be removed, leaving the vinyl graphics stuck to the transfer paper. Now this is where things can get tricky. For large pieces of vinyl...it's best to get another pair of hands for assistance. A plastic "squeegee" applicator is provided with the Miracle Graphics package. The squeegee is used to work the transfer paper with vinyl from the taped edge down (in my case) trying NOT to create any air bubbles under the vinyl. Bubbles can be pricked with a pin or scribe and then work the air out thru that pin hole. Working from the taped edge down a couple inches at a time, hold the loose end away from the car surface until the vinyl has been worked to the bottom.

It's best at this point to go over all the vinyl graphics with the transfer paper intact to be sure all the vinyl has been pressed into place. When satisfied that everything is ready, grab an upper corner and pull the transfer paper down at a 45 deg angle against the side of the car. Watch as you pull down on the transfer paper to be sure the graphics are releasing and sticking to the car surface. If not, push the transfer paper back a bit and press the vinyl down again. If you've never done vinyl work before...start with a smaller piece of vinyl to transfer.

One of the nice things about Miracle Graphics provided vinyl...the car weights and dimensions are arranged and cut as (1) block. You don't have to apply individual lines of graphics and hope they're parallel. Everything will come off the transfer paper already justified and parallel.

Some additional graphics comments...graphics apply easily and best on gloss or satin finished, relatively smooth, surfaces. Miracle Graphics provides a page long instruction sheet with tips, tricks and techniques. While Miracle Graphics suggests waiting something like 72 hours after surfaces are painted to apply graphics...I'm usually putting down vinyl withing 48 hours.

Okay, enough about the graphics. Will be right back. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2235
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

SHOW 'N TELL TIME

Suspect some you have been waiting to see how this 15 year long project finally turned out. Shoot...I WAS ANXIOUS to see how the end product would look in sunlight! Here's some photos of the cars when they were delivered to the train club. Will start with the Rutland box car...

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And now for the Northern Pacific refrigerator car...

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Was I able to capture the "look and feel" of these cars from models and available photos on-line? I think so. Hope you would agree. Do you think I'm nervous about the 1st scratch and/or derailment? OF COURSE I AM!

But the equipment wasn't built to sit under protective glass for the rest of it's life. New equipment NEVER looks as good as the day it rolls out of the shop! In fact, the train club recently had a P2P Operation (Point to Point) where the normally double-tracked railroad is set for single-track, bi-directional operation under radio dispatch instruction control. Something new...we were finally able get the train crews to start setting out cars at various industry stub sidings...as designated by way bills for each car. The next time a car was delivered to that industry... the 1st car would be picked up and returned to the yard. Have to say, was very gratifying riding along on the rails and seeing equipment I've built over the last 30 years spotted around the railroad.

In some respects...the excessive build cycle for the box 'n reefer did have another benefit. Over the years, have learned to refine my model building capability and incorporated some of those tips, trick and techniques into the final car build. Still, always looking to learn from what others have done...and obviously, share some of things I've picked up along the way.

Have a few more photos to share (next time) and some other comments about the project. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
Pontiacguy1
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by Pontiacguy1 »

I'm impressed! I like that a lot. I especially like that you intend for them to be run and played with, knowing that they will eventually get somewhat dulled, scratched, dirty, etc... After the 'new' wears off of it, I'm sure you won't worry as much about it.
Steve Goodbody
Posts: 219
Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 7:16 am

Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by Steve Goodbody »

Hi Carl,
I’ve been really enjoying this thread and congratulate you on a superb job.

One question, hopefully not too far off-topic: have you tried making your own graphics or paint masks using a Cricut machine? I’m nearing the paint/graphics stage on the build of some freight cars, and am weighing up the various options, and I’m really interested to hear your expert perspective!

If this question runs the risk of hijacking your thread then I’ll start another thread going.
Best regards
Steve
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NP317
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by NP317 »

Carl:
That is a most instructive Build Blog for those two cars.
Thank you for taking the time and energy to share all that with us.

I will send you my address so you can ship the NP car out to me. :lol: :lol:
RussN
ccvstmr
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Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

Pontiacguy1 wrote: Fri Jun 25, 2021 12:31 pm I'm impressed! I like that a lot. I especially like that you intend for them to be run and played with, knowing that they will eventually get somewhat dulled, scratched, dirty, etc... After the 'new' wears off of it, I'm sure you won't worry as much about it.
Hello Pontiac Guy...glad to read you like the finished product(s). As noted in the write-up, the cars will never look as good as the day they roll out of the shop. Add to that, I usually run my equipment under a hose and scrub brush with detergent at least 1x per year to wash off dust and other that settles on the cars while in the car barn.

Tried to build specific areas with more rigidity and strength so they're rugged to withstand basic foot abuse when someone walks by. Some wear and tear just can't be avoided. Heaven forbid...have to go blank out around an area for touch up such as when the equipment goes to the rip track for some kind of sheet metal repair. For now, can sit back and enjoy the end result. Thanks for posting. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2235
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

NP317 wrote: Fri Jun 25, 2021 8:06 pm Carl:
That is a most instructive Build Blog for those two cars.
Thank you for taking the time and energy to share all that with us.

I will send you my address so you can ship the NP car out to me. :lol: :lol:
RussN
Gee Russ...you must have some good eyesight from 1700 miles away to want the NP reefer sight unseen! For now, think I'll enjoy both of the cars a bit before I worry about where to ship the reefer.

As for the post, happy to read you enjoyed the write up. Sorry you had to wait so long for me to gather all the photos for the article since the cars were started...15 years ago, but glad to document and share what's possible with a little bit shop knowledge and a lot of patience. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
ccvstmr
Posts: 2235
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 10:37 am
Location: New Lenox, IL

Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

Steve Goodbody wrote: Fri Jun 25, 2021 5:37 pm Hi Carl,
I’ve been really enjoying this thread and congratulate you on a superb job.

One question, hopefully not too far off-topic: have you tried making your own graphics or paint masks using a Cricut machine? I’m nearing the paint/graphics stage on the build of some freight cars, and am weighing up the various options, and I’m really interested to hear your expert perspective!

If this question runs the risk of hijacking your thread then I’ll start another thread going.
Best regards
Steve
Hello Steve...thanks for the congrats and glad to read you enjoyed slogging thru another one of my long-winded epistles.

No, I don't consider your comments about alternate graphics off-topic. I'm familiar with the Circut machine, but never used one. Suspect that can do the same job as the US Data cutter/plotter my friend, Chris, has.

Some of my graphics history/experience. Years ago (like 30+), long before computer driven cutter/plotters were available in the retail market, my first graphics attempts were to paint the side of the car body with the lettering color, apply adhesive backed letters...one character at a time, over spray with the car color and then go back and peel the lettering off. Slow. Tedious. Limited by whatever fonts and lettering sizes were. And removing the lettering after the final paint risked poking/scratching the lettering color.

After that, found I could go to an architectural drafting supply store to purchase rub on dry-transfer lettering. The selection of fonts was greater, but colors were limited to black or white (back then). The cars still needed a smooth surface. And after application, I would over spray the dry transfers with Tester's dull or gloss coat to protect the lettering. In time, the lettering would crack from exposure to the elements.

Around 1994, was introduced to vinyl graphics. Now, there was an array of colors to choose from and the font listing was many and varied...as long as you didn't want proprietary railroad fonts. However, believe there are some web sights where you can down load railroad font libraries. After 27 years, haven't seen any evidence of vinyl peeling or fading. Some guys might want the graphics to "age" along with the rest of the car.

Would imagine cutting a paint mask is similar to cutting vinyl. Takes a different type of material, but after cutting the graphics...peel away all the desired graphics leaving a reverse image...and hope during the peel away...you don't take the centers for the letters A, B, D, O, P, Q, R as well as numbers like 4, 6, 8, 9 and 0. After the stencil color is applied, it's back to removing the mask and the letter/number centers.

Suspect there are Youtube vids available where someone documented the use of paint masks. Think a couple of folks here in Chaski-land have used masks and even stencils. Would imagine it's like anything else...try it on something OTHER than your model first. Be careful of "bleeding" around the mask/stencil and then enjoy the completed model.

Thanks for posting. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
Steve Goodbody
Posts: 219
Joined: Thu May 25, 2006 7:16 am

Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by Steve Goodbody »

Many thanks for such an informative reply Carl. I’ll keep doing my research and, as you say, once I decide which way to go I’ll run a bunch of tests on sample pieces before doing anything on the cars themselves.

Thanks once again,
Steve
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Dick_Morris
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Location: Anchorage, AK

Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by Dick_Morris »

Carl - Those are beautiful! Thanks for the detailed description.
ccvstmr
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Re: Economy Box 'n Reef

Post by ccvstmr »

Steve Goodbody wrote: Sun Jun 27, 2021 8:38 am Many thanks for such an informative reply Carl. I’ll keep doing my research and, as you say, once I decide which way to go I’ll run a bunch of tests on sample pieces before doing anything on the cars themselves.

Thanks once again,
Steve
Hello again Steve...there's no extra charge for the information provided. Over the years, have obviously tried different letter techniques. The advent of computers provided cut vinyl lettering...and mask cutting as well.

Not having done any mask work, want to say the more critical step when using a mask is the paint application. My biggest concern with painting over a mask...is paint "bleeding" under the mask edges. Not good.

Would think paint "stippling" would be more appropriate. Stippling uses a brush like a shaving lather brush where the brush tips are dipped in paint and then dabbed over the mask transferring the paint to the car surface. Once again, think this has been described here in Chaski. Think a guy by the name of Brian did that with a Santa Fe box or reefer several years ago. Would suggest looking for Youtube vids. Maybe Connie Miracle has something on her website regarding the application and use of painting masks. Just have to be careful after the graphics paint dryers...that you don't scratch the car surface while removing the mask.

Hope you'll keep us informed of your decision and progress. Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
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