2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
I picked up this absolutely beautiful piece of cab jewelry from Adam of Model gauges . Thanks Adam
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
The only spider I had was to big to fit so I figured a wood plug and light cuts would work. The first one I center drilled and sawed out but the inside of the stack was not centered so the 2nd one I did not center drill so I chucked it in the 4 jaw knocked it a round till running true then ran the live center into the wood. Light cuts and all was good. For the attaching bolts I tap drilled the base in the mill on the smokebox then the stack ears using the base as a guide.
Jim
Jim
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
The 4 jaw is used to get centered with the door opening then put a blunt end tool in tool post for alignment and then a hammer, bump in to place tighten the jaws lightly on the 1st spin 2nd spin tighter . Face where the door will mate then turn use that surface against the jaw faces and grab it by the door opening.
Jim
Jim
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
In the saddle machining months ago I had mentioned the print called for tube instead of pipe. I went the pipe route so the smokebox face boss under cut was going to get thinner than I liked for taped holes so I bored the smokebox out to fit the front. Jim
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
The smokebox door casting was convex on back side so sand it flat in the middle so it could be drilled and tapped and chucked on a threaded stud to face the back. Hand file the hinge fit up. Jim
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
I decided to bolt the door directly instead of dogs. 10-32 cap screws. The outside studs are 1/4-20 a drop of blue locker on stud in door and nut on stud. My plan for brushing the flue's I will remove the front as 1 unit. Jim
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
The smokebox had to go back on the rotary table to drill holes at 45 degrees. The top and bottom were not drilled. My options for fasteners are bolts cap screws or maybe turn up a rivet head with a slot for a screwdriver. Jim
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
The brake beams were sawed out of 3/16" and 1/4" bolts welded to the ends . The holes in the hangers were drilled 3/8" but I believe the slop will be ok if not maybe a sleeve .
I am going to work on the front hangers some more to get the shoes to hang at a better angle. Jim
I am going to work on the front hangers some more to get the shoes to hang at a better angle. Jim
Last edited by rmac on Sat Oct 15, 2022 10:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Photo Orientation
Reason: Photo Orientation
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
If you have equalized brake rigging, you want those holes on the hangers to be a closer fit to the beam bolts. Yes for sleeves.
Otherwise there will be too much slop in the brakes for proper function.
My opinion.
RussN
Otherwise there will be too much slop in the brakes for proper function.
My opinion.
RussN
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
Hi Russ
Thanks for info, turning up some sleeves should not take much time. Next step is to set up the saddle for drilling but today spent a little time with a rough sketch and some thin cardboard cut outs for clam shell doors and frame, Jim
Thanks for info, turning up some sleeves should not take much time. Next step is to set up the saddle for drilling but today spent a little time with a rough sketch and some thin cardboard cut outs for clam shell doors and frame, Jim
No problems just solutions.
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
Hello Jim...
Have enjoyed watching your progress on your 4-6-0. Thanks for the continued pictorial progress updates.
Would agree with Russ...no slop in the brake beam holes. Can't afford to wait when applying brakes for all the slack to be taken up before the brakes start doing anything. As such, you're left with either sleeves or maybe shoulder bushings...OR...drill a smaller hole adjacent to the existing holes.
Might suggest at some point, pull the brake shoes up against the drivers, hold position and drill holes to pin or screw the brake shoe in position so the brake shoe and driver surfaces are concentric. Else, dragging brake shoes are going to wear.
On my Allen 10-wheeler...loco brakes are primarily for parking purposes. Drilled a hole thru the shoe and brake hanger and drove a spring pin in the hole. While not readily serviceable, can drive the spring pin thru if necessary.
Please, keep the updates coming! Carl B.
Have enjoyed watching your progress on your 4-6-0. Thanks for the continued pictorial progress updates.
Would agree with Russ...no slop in the brake beam holes. Can't afford to wait when applying brakes for all the slack to be taken up before the brakes start doing anything. As such, you're left with either sleeves or maybe shoulder bushings...OR...drill a smaller hole adjacent to the existing holes.
Might suggest at some point, pull the brake shoes up against the drivers, hold position and drill holes to pin or screw the brake shoe in position so the brake shoe and driver surfaces are concentric. Else, dragging brake shoes are going to wear.
On my Allen 10-wheeler...loco brakes are primarily for parking purposes. Drilled a hole thru the shoe and brake hanger and drove a spring pin in the hole. While not readily serviceable, can drive the spring pin thru if necessary.
Please, keep the updates coming! Carl B.
Life is like a sewer...what you get out of it depends on what you put into it!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
I don't walk on water...I just learned where some of the stepping stones are!
I love mankind...it's some of the people I can't stand!
Re: 2 1/2" scale 4-6-0 build
Thanks Carl for the info and your support you are right I might have to pre rock the shoes more. I just recently was looking at you Shorties build. You are a craftsman the cars are beautiful hope to build a few also.
Setting the cylinders with the front truck pin in to the truck and in to the machined notch in bottom frame with the locating ears. Well it was in there before. Had to file the ears little twice. But setting those 80lb. cylinders 3 times was not fun. Jim
Setting the cylinders with the front truck pin in to the truck and in to the machined notch in bottom frame with the locating ears. Well it was in there before. Had to file the ears little twice. But setting those 80lb. cylinders 3 times was not fun. Jim
No problems just solutions.