Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Where users can chronicle their builds. Start one thread and continue to add on to it.

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Soot n' Cinders
Posts: 791
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 5:24 pm
Location: Marietta, Georgia

Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by Soot n' Cinders » Mon Jan 14, 2019 12:53 pm

Brian Hilgert wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 12:45 pm
Very nice. Thank you!
One more question, Where did you purchase your wood for the running boards? I cant find any sources that will offer 6+ feet for the fireman's side.

Thanks,
B
You’re welcome Brian!

The wood is reused red oak floorboards. My fireman’s side boards aren’t one continuous piece either though. I have a glued scarf joint on each board to make the 6’ piece
-Tristan

Projects
-2.5" scale Class A 20 Ton Shay

Brian Hilgert
Posts: 248
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:35 am
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by Brian Hilgert » Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:00 pm

Thanks Tristan,
I'm not sure what a scarf joint is but it looks like I'll have to do the same. LOL

Soot n' Cinders
Posts: 791
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 5:24 pm
Location: Marietta, Georgia

Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by Soot n' Cinders » Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:15 pm

Brian Hilgert wrote:
Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:00 pm
Thanks Tristan,
I'm not sure what a scarf joint is but it looks like I'll have to do the same. LOL
A scarf joint is just cutting the ends of the mating boards at a shallow enough angle to give the glue good surface contact. On mine. The scarf is centered over a screw hole so the mounted board also has that for reinforcement
CC55D4AE-D808-4978-A574-DE967C560959.png
-Tristan

Projects
-2.5" scale Class A 20 Ton Shay

Brian Hilgert
Posts: 248
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:35 am
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by Brian Hilgert » Mon Jan 14, 2019 1:52 pm

Learn something new every day. Thank you!
B

Soot n' Cinders
Posts: 791
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 5:24 pm
Location: Marietta, Georgia

Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by Soot n' Cinders » Tue Jan 22, 2019 5:13 pm

More updates on the shay tank. The top is mostly cut, the hole for the fill hatch and the opening for the steam siphon stand pipe are all that remain.
01023aeeed2a42256a5f461b4a919074d15da74208.jpg
Mostly cut top
With the the top and bottom cut and bolted down, I decided to give the tank a load test to make sure no additional supports were needed before everything gets riveted together. And suffice to say it passed and riveting can begin in earnest.
01d71cd168e240b209f29158be9131ae0bcc96893d.jpg
Load test
From there I started bucking rivets on one of the bottom angle irons. Theres 67 rivets in that particular joint, with each one taking about 2 dozen whacks with a 3lb hammer to set. What has helped is the way I made my bucking bar. Its a long stainless rod with a dimple machined into the end, and the other end passes through my work bench top and rests on a piece of 8" round stock I had laying around
01672cc9ffbedbcd6324a915e766dd946a23bef56e.jpg
First complete row
015a0167e62c39b00bfacbba19488de4166de3a74d.jpg
bucking bar
Once all of the rivets are set, I'll come back with a bunch of plumbers solder and seal everything up. Then itll be one to some testing and then paint.


On other thing Im considering is how to increase fuel efficiency, since a 2 mile round trip on my home club track takes a little over 1/2 a milk crate full of wood, which adds up over the course of a weekend. Im wondering if a firebox arch would help, or if I just need to give up on wood as a reasonably viable fuel option. She'll easily keep up steam on wood, but bringing enough wood with me for a run is going to be problematic at that rate of consumption.
-Tristan

Projects
-2.5" scale Class A 20 Ton Shay

Jawn
Posts: 281
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2014 12:39 pm
Location: Canton, GA

Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by Jawn » Tue Jan 22, 2019 5:36 pm

Is there a reason not to use a pneumatic hammer for setting rivets? Or is this just working with what was on hand?

Soot n' Cinders
Posts: 791
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 5:24 pm
Location: Marietta, Georgia

Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by Soot n' Cinders » Tue Jan 22, 2019 5:53 pm

Jawn wrote:
Tue Jan 22, 2019 5:36 pm
Is there a reason not to use a pneumatic hammer for setting rivets? Or is this just working with what was on hand?
The rivets are only copper, so an air hammer would be overkill. Plus it wouldnt fit down in the water legs either.
I could set them faster with the hammer Im using if I really hit them, but Im taking some advice from a Kozo book and doing a bunch of lighter hits rather than a few big ones.
-Tristan

Projects
-2.5" scale Class A 20 Ton Shay

Harold_V
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Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2002 11:02 pm
Location: Onalaska, WA USA

Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by Harold_V » Wed Jan 23, 2019 2:07 am

Soot n' Cinders wrote:
Tue Jan 22, 2019 5:13 pm
On other thing Im considering is how to increase fuel efficiency, since a 2 mile round trip on my home club track takes a little over 1/2 a milk crate full of wood, which adds up over the course of a weekend. Im wondering if a firebox arch would help, or if I just need to give up on wood as a reasonably viable fuel option. She'll easily keep up steam on wood, but bringing enough wood with me for a run is going to be problematic at that rate of consumption.
Hmmm. I've been around enough wood fires to know I don't like 'em. The smoke burns my eyes something fierce. Isn't that a problem for you?

I've always been a coal fan--but I realize it's not for everyone, and it's not always easy to get. Seems to me that would be a great alternative fuel source. I'd appreciate your thoughts on the subject.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

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FLSTEAM
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Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by FLSTEAM » Wed Jan 23, 2019 8:06 am

As you have heard from others already, wood does not have near the BTU content of oil or coal. The BTU's in wood are factors of which kind of wood and most importantly the moisture content. That is why fireplace wood burns best when it has had a chance to "air dry" for a year. You should be able to google "BTU's in wood".

JB
http://www.ngshay.com/
Shay drawings and castings

Pontiacguy1
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:15 am
Location: Tennessee, USA

Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by Pontiacguy1 » Wed Jan 23, 2019 8:38 am

Most dried hardwoods are going to be in the neighborhood of 5,500 to 7,000 BTU/lb. Most of your better grades of soft coal will be in the 12,000 to 14,000 BTU/lb range. Hard coals should be above 15,000 BTU/lb, but will burn much slower. Non-dried wood is much lower in BTU value to the point where some types will hardly give off more energy than it takes to make them burn.

Some suggestions:
(1) See if you can get the cast-offs from some local lumber mill. Around here, people use the outer slabs that they get from Amish sawmills for a lot of different things. It might save a lot on time spent splitting up wood, and usually the pieces are thin to begin with. Or find a local cabinet shop that might sell, or better yet give you, their scraps.
(2) try burning Anthracite coal in your locomotive. You can buy coal from TSC in bags that is anthracite for home heating, and it is reasonable. If your locomotive runs well on wood, it might do pretty well on the Anthracite too. Also, it is very clean, with very little smoke and ash.
(3) Nobody said you have to absolutely stick to one or the other. If the Anthracite works OK, you could use it interchangeably with wood, depending on how much you have laying around.
(4) I think the arch will help you some, and make the locomotive a better steamer, but I don't think it will save you a whole lot of wood, although it will save you some. I'd try it and find out, though.

Soot n' Cinders
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Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by Soot n' Cinders » Wed Jan 23, 2019 12:06 pm

Harold_V wrote:
Wed Jan 23, 2019 2:07 am
Soot n' Cinders wrote:
Tue Jan 22, 2019 5:13 pm
On other thing Im considering is how to increase fuel efficiency, since a 2 mile round trip on my home club track takes a little over 1/2 a milk crate full of wood, which adds up over the course of a weekend. Im wondering if a firebox arch would help, or if I just need to give up on wood as a reasonably viable fuel option. She'll easily keep up steam on wood, but bringing enough wood with me for a run is going to be problematic at that rate of consumption.
Hmmm. I've been around enough wood fires to know I don't like 'em. The smoke burns my eyes something fierce. Isn't that a problem for you?

I've always been a coal fan--but I realize it's not for everyone, and it's not always easy to get. Seems to me that would be a great alternative fuel source. I'd appreciate your thoughts on the subject.

H
The wood smoke is off putting, but the shay's exhaust is so powerful that there isnt much smoke around except when drifting or sitting.
Im a fan of coal too, but it has been hard to come by locally. Although Ive gotten a lead on a place in Columbus, GA selling some good, but very smokey, Alabama coal. If the price is good, Id rather make the 4hr round trip there than spend the time cutting up the scraps I get from the cabinetry shop. Because cutting wood takes a long time, but it was less than what some of my friends were driving for coal. Quite a few guys here have been going to Cucumber, WV for coal, which is 10hr one way for me. Plus on top of the cost of the coal is the cost of gas and a motel room for a night
-Tristan

Projects
-2.5" scale Class A 20 Ton Shay

Harold_V
Posts: 17688
Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2002 11:02 pm
Location: Onalaska, WA USA

Re: Building the 2.5" Scale Shay

Post by Harold_V » Wed Jan 23, 2019 4:15 pm

Thanks. Seems you are plagued by the same issues most of us face who like coal. The world is changing, with changes making some things a lot more difficult for us.

I have fond memories of coal being readily available when I was a young lad. Cheap, too. $50/ton.

H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.

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