Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
The last two weeks have been occupied with forming the boiler jacket. Having talked with other members, I decided to go with 18 to 20 gauge metal. One for the weight over the drivers and two for the fact that it is less likely to dent.
Using Richland LLC in Pulaski Tenn. I was unable to get 18 gauge so I ended up with 16 gauge.
After measuring the paper patterns I had the metal sheered to size and transferred the pattern cutouts. I ended up with one short sheet at the front with one long one back to the back head. The split is at the first band back from the smoke box.
I was warned, by the people at Richland, not to cut out the large 5 inch hole for the steam dome until it was rolled as the sheet could crease at that point. After the cutouts were complete the two sheets, were taken back and rolled into cylinders.
Back at the shop I used a saber saw to cut out the steam dome hole, the side slots and then hammered the sides back flat that run down the fire box sides. Then just a matter of tweaking them into place and bolting the back plate to the backhead strapping with 8-32 screws thru the plates.
I have seen some beautiful models with rivet detail on this area but will probably just be happy with this.
This week and next I will be getting the American ready to go to Mid South for the meet, but will then be working on the back head fire door and throttle leaver.
I did order the material for the water glass and pressure gauge from Loco-Parts and hope to see it next month.
Using Richland LLC in Pulaski Tenn. I was unable to get 18 gauge so I ended up with 16 gauge.
After measuring the paper patterns I had the metal sheered to size and transferred the pattern cutouts. I ended up with one short sheet at the front with one long one back to the back head. The split is at the first band back from the smoke box.
I was warned, by the people at Richland, not to cut out the large 5 inch hole for the steam dome until it was rolled as the sheet could crease at that point. After the cutouts were complete the two sheets, were taken back and rolled into cylinders.
Back at the shop I used a saber saw to cut out the steam dome hole, the side slots and then hammered the sides back flat that run down the fire box sides. Then just a matter of tweaking them into place and bolting the back plate to the backhead strapping with 8-32 screws thru the plates.
I have seen some beautiful models with rivet detail on this area but will probably just be happy with this.
This week and next I will be getting the American ready to go to Mid South for the meet, but will then be working on the back head fire door and throttle leaver.
I did order the material for the water glass and pressure gauge from Loco-Parts and hope to see it next month.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
This last week has been tied up with getting the American checked out for this weekends run. I was going to the meet today at Mid-South but with the rain I stayed home.
Not wanting to get involved in the new fire door and Johnson Bar, I opted to make up a mock up Cab. This to see how It is going to sit under me and to see if I need to change any dimensions prior to cutting the oak or ash.
I made it from left over scraps of 1/4 inch hard board left over from a friends shop.
As this is a kit bash of no particular engine, All comments are welcome on any suggested changes.
Not wanting to get involved in the new fire door and Johnson Bar, I opted to make up a mock up Cab. This to see how It is going to sit under me and to see if I need to change any dimensions prior to cutting the oak or ash.
I made it from left over scraps of 1/4 inch hard board left over from a friends shop.
As this is a kit bash of no particular engine, All comments are welcome on any suggested changes.
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
Looks great.
Now's the time to start collecting all the valves, cylinders cocks, injectors, check valves etc you need. By the time you need them hopefully you'll have received most of them. Sometimes people wait until they actually need them, then realize the parts won't arrive for 3 months etc
Now's the time to start collecting all the valves, cylinders cocks, injectors, check valves etc you need. By the time you need them hopefully you'll have received most of them. Sometimes people wait until they actually need them, then realize the parts won't arrive for 3 months etc
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
Charlie,
That is one nifty little "bash"!
Love the whole outline. It has a very 2 foot look to it.
Take care,
Brian
That is one nifty little "bash"!
Love the whole outline. It has a very 2 foot look to it.
Take care,
Brian
- Greg_Lewis
- Posts: 3020
- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 2:44 pm
- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
Berkman wrote: ↑Thu Apr 29, 2021 6:46 pm Looks great.
Now's the time to start collecting all the valves, cylinders cocks, injectors, check valves etc you need. By the time you need them hopefully you'll have received most of them. Sometimes people wait until they actually need them, then realize the parts won't arrive for 3 months etc
Any time you see anything you think you may need or want, buy it right away. Don't wait. Many of our suppliers are small businesses or hobby businesses and products can be discontinued at any time.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
Great looking kit-bash! I've been enjoying your postings.
My eyes wonder of the cab is too narrow compared to the height? And considering controls like the Johnson bar.
Are the frame, tender tank and cab wider than the cylinders?
Without personally walking around the locomotive I can't quite get the full flavor of the look. I'm a 3-D visual guy.
RussN
My eyes wonder of the cab is too narrow compared to the height? And considering controls like the Johnson bar.
Are the frame, tender tank and cab wider than the cylinders?
Without personally walking around the locomotive I can't quite get the full flavor of the look. I'm a 3-D visual guy.
RussN
- Greg_Lewis
- Posts: 3020
- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 2:44 pm
- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
Be sure that you can reach all the controls easily. A friend of mine built a 10-wheeler with a section of the center of the cab roof cut out so you could reach in, but you had to use your left hand and bend it somewhat awkwardly to get to the j-bar and throttle. I've made mine with a completely removable cab roof. While that may not look so terrific on the track, operator comfort takes priority.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
- makinsmoke
- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:56 pm
- Location: Texas Hill Country
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
Yep,
There are a dozen ways to do that.
It does help up front when designing the throttle lever and Johnson bar to think about how you are going to operate them.
I learned to operate Joe Bailey’s Consolidation by setting the throttle and working the Johnson bar through the engineer’s window.
Not very prototypical, but the 12” to the foot engineer sitting on the tender wasn’t either!!
Gene’s Johnson bar isn’t scale, but is easily operated, and pretty accessible through the window on his as designed cabs.
There are a dozen ways to do that.
It does help up front when designing the throttle lever and Johnson bar to think about how you are going to operate them.
I learned to operate Joe Bailey’s Consolidation by setting the throttle and working the Johnson bar through the engineer’s window.
Not very prototypical, but the 12” to the foot engineer sitting on the tender wasn’t either!!
Gene’s Johnson bar isn’t scale, but is easily operated, and pretty accessible through the window on his as designed cabs.
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
I'd put the throttle on the back head, not on top of the boiler neat the turret in the cab. WAY less bending over to reach it.
Some of the RGS 20s I've ran had the throttle on top of the boiler well forward in the cab which I found not very comfortable to run.
Some of the RGS 20s I've ran had the throttle on top of the boiler well forward in the cab which I found not very comfortable to run.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
Hello My Friends
And we are discussing cab layout here is a snappy of my number 9 that I built a while back. Although a bit different as you say in the cab these larger engines have plenty of room to get at the controls. These larger engines can be a real hoot to run.
Jack
And we are discussing cab layout here is a snappy of my number 9 that I built a while back. Although a bit different as you say in the cab these larger engines have plenty of room to get at the controls. These larger engines can be a real hoot to run.
Jack
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
Cannot thank you enough for the inputs. I am at the Mid South meet with the American and will go over all these next week.
I will need to check my cab measurements to the cylinder width first.
Charlie
I will need to check my cab measurements to the cylinder width first.
Charlie
Charlie Pipes
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Mid-South Live Steamers
Current Projects:
Scratch Built 3 3/4 scale 0-4-4 Forney
Little Engines American
20 Ton Shay (Castings and Plans Purchased for future)
Re: Converting a Baldwin 2-4-2 LYN to a Baldwin 2-4-4
Charlie doesn’t seem to post many photos of himself with his engine, so here is one I took today. We are going up to Mid-South tomorrow for their Spring Meet.
Dan Watson
Chattanooga, TN
Chattanooga, TN