12" working railroad

Discuss park gauge trains and large scale miniature railways having track gauges from 8" to 24" gauge and designed at scales of 2" to the foot or greater - whether modeled for personal use, or purpose built for amusement park operation or private railroading.

Moderators: Glenn Brooks, Harold_V

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Topics may include: antique park gauge train restoration, preservation, and history; building new grand scale equipment from scratch; large scale miniature railway construction, maintenance, and safe operation; fallen flags; track, gauge, and equipment standards; grand scale vendor offerings; and, compiling an on-line motive power roster.
rkcarguy
Posts: 1141
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:33 am
Location: Wa State

Re: 12" working railroad

Post by rkcarguy » Tue Jun 11, 2019 3:19 pm

brakeparts.jpg
Here's a picture of the brake shoe parts. These are like backwards drum brakes, where they will lie in pairs between the wheels and ride on slices of 4" pipe I welded behind one wheel on each axle. The convex parts of the back of the shoes will rub on the bolster and acts as stops when the brakes are released. The notches at the top are where I'll weld in some 3/8 round stock and spacers/retainers for whatever springs I end up running. Finally, the tabs at the top will get holes drilled through them from the side for the brake cable. The large holes in the center will allow me to compress the shoes with a pair of channel locks so I can install the assembly between the wheels/drums.

I went ahead and had enough parts cut for 4 pieces of rolling stock so I have extra's.

rkcarguy
Posts: 1141
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:33 am
Location: Wa State

Re: 12" working railroad

Post by rkcarguy » Thu Jun 13, 2019 10:44 pm

The riding car wheel sets are ready for final turning. I drew up a quick set of parts for a truing stand that I had laser cut with my brake parts, it worked good getting the side to side wobble down to .010" or less. Not acceptable for a locomotive, but for rolling stock it will do.
When and if you weld/tack the wheels to the axles, the weld will shrink and always pull the wheel a little bit. I used this to my advantage and tack welded the "wide side" first with a heavier tack, and it pulled out some of the side-to-side run-out. I can't even see any concentric run-out by eye so I'm thinking it's really close, but I still have all the tapers to turn anyway.
wheelsets.jpg
truingstand1.jpg
truingstand2.jpg

rkcarguy
Posts: 1141
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:33 am
Location: Wa State

Re: 12" working railroad

Post by rkcarguy » Tue Jun 18, 2019 1:47 pm

I got my building permit so I am going to be changing gears on this build. I'm hoping to finish up these wheel sets and get the riding car rolling, and then I will be transitioning into site work and grading my ROW as extra dozer time and weather allows....maybe laying some track and my first turnout. When the weather is a no-go, I'll continue working on the hopper sides for the riding car and the locomotive.

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