12" working railroad

Discuss park gauge trains and large scale miniature railways having track gauges from 8" to 24" gauge and designed at scales of 2" to the foot or greater - whether modeled for personal use, or purpose built for amusement park operation or private railroading.

Moderators: Glenn Brooks, Harold_V

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Topics may include: antique park gauge train restoration, preservation, and history; building new grand scale equipment from scratch; large scale miniature railway construction, maintenance, and safe operation; fallen flags; track, gauge, and equipment standards; grand scale vendor offerings; and, compiling an on-line motive power roster.
rkcarguy
Posts: 1200
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:33 am
Location: Wa State

Re: 12" working railroad

Post by rkcarguy » Thu Aug 01, 2019 12:08 am

I started clearing and dropping trees in the area near the driveway where I'm widening it, and where the ROW will be, tonight. Excavator is rented for the weekend to remove parts of a berm and grade/prep the home site. Any extra machine time left I'm going to use to start grading from the house up towards the road. Planning on using a string on some posts set to a 3% grade so I have something to follow and get my grading fairly close. I'll post more pictures as I hit meaningful "milestones".

rkcarguy
Posts: 1200
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:33 am
Location: Wa State

Re: 12" working railroad

Post by rkcarguy » Mon Aug 26, 2019 12:45 pm

90K views, wow!
Not much to post in the way of pictures. The cabin met it's demise with about 15 minutes of excavator work, it was funny because it was just sitting on cinder blocks and when I grabbed the corner of the roof with the bucket/claw and then pushed down the whole thing stood up on one corner about 2' in the air and then folded inward. I've been picking through the remains and scavenging whatever I can, a lot of it I'll be able to re-use for my RR. About 14 cinder blocks I can use for abutments and sub-grade signal bases, the plastic water lines (will use for low voltage conduit for the signals), some of the usable lumber will go to make more ties, and I also pulled the 100amp sub panel and most of the wiring which I can use in my future "train shed".
I did set the body back on the locomotive after making the cutout across the inside of the cab face, and it doesn't look like the factory gas tank is going to clear the cab roof. So the next step is going to be modifying the existing one or making a slightly smaller one. I want more fuel capacity anyway, so the plan is to plumb in a pulse fuel pump to a secondary tank, and then have a larger return line with a high port off of the engine mounted tank. It will maintain a constant fuel level yet not build any pressure beyond the gravity fuel feed which messes with the jetting in these engines. Should the pump fail, I'll still have reserve fuel in the engine mounted tank.

rkcarguy
Posts: 1200
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:33 am
Location: Wa State

Re: 12" working railroad

Post by rkcarguy » Thu Aug 29, 2019 1:21 pm

I actually got some work done on the Locomotive Monday night. I removed the upper portion of the airbox, loosened up the engine in its slotted mount and slid it right about 3/8", and also removed the fuel tank. The body now slides back over the engine. It looks like I am going to need to mount a 90* elbow on top of the lower ABS plastic airbox and intake portion, because the OEM air filter still hits the cab. I drained the fuel tank and will be cutting it apart to utilize the lower portion with the strange bolt pattern/arrangement on it, and I will "cope" it to accept a new "pipe" fuel tank. Mikuni pulse pump and brass fittings are on the way for the tank project including a fuel level gage(2 each 90* fittings and a chunk of clear 3/8" fuel line).

The next order of work though, is going to be match drilling the frame to the body so I can pin the two together. Then I'm going to work on my exhaust stack. I have questions about that. I have never had good luck running any exhaust frame-mounted when it penetrates a body panel, as it always winds up out of position when the exhaust gets hot and expands. Furthermore I don't want my stack to get rained in and fill the muffler and potentially the engine with water. I'm leaning towards something different, actually making an insulated pipe stack that mounts to the body, reduces down to the rectangle stack tube at the top, that slips over the protruding exhaust stack inside the locomotive with some considerable slop. The exhaust flow will pull a vacuum through this slop, and if I cover the actual exhaust pipe inside the stack with a "chimney cap" type thing, any rain that goes down the stack will run harmlessly out the open bottom of the pipe onto the ground below. Thoughts?

rkcarguy
Posts: 1200
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:33 am
Location: Wa State

Re: 12" working railroad

Post by rkcarguy » Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:14 pm

I sourced a little K&N air filter from a motorcycle parts store that looks like it's going to fit nicely, and am going to pickup a 1-1/2" ABS pipe 90* elbow and use it to adapt the filter to the airbox. It looks like I'll be able to slip the filter over the expanded end of the elbow, and then the other end looks like it will be a decent fit over the lower portion of the OEM GX390 airbox.

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