Re: just purchased i believe a 15 guage rehabed mtc
Posted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 10:51 pm
Stuart,
I'm not sure what you mean by; how many yards. There are not many hard and fast "rules" when it comes to track plan. While there are some very nice ideas, such as "S" curves, they may be harder to do than they're worth. It takes more horsepower to pull a train through a curve than on a straight. When you compound the curves, as in an "S" curve, you can really bog down a locomotive. Generally, you should have at least one full straight section between curves. In your case, 10' might be fine but it may be a little short. If you plan on a large sweeping loop, you can put a couple of straight sections between two curves. Obstacles, such as trees, fences, ticket stands, etc., need to be included in your track plan so you can keep the largest radii curves yet not exclude the features from your railroad.
Almost all landscape supply companies have crushed rock. Some with "mixes" such as 3/4 minus. If you can't get crushed washed, get the straight, screened, crushed. It's better to have straight crushed than have all the smaller (minus) "dirt" in the mix. This is specifically related to the best materials for the ties.
When you lay your track, many people will recommend using landscape fabric on the ground under the gravel. I believe, it's your choice. I have witnessed more dirt contamination of the ballast from the sky than I have from underneath. This is specifically Grand Scale not full size railroads.
Grand Scale is small enough to eliminate the "pumping" of the track. Full size railroad are very heavy and flex the track under the train. The ties are forced up and down or "pumped". Add a little moisture and you will get mud very quickly. Grand Scale rolling stock are too light to get any serious pumping if the track is laid on a decent bed of ballast and then infilled with more ballast to finish. Thus, I see some but not a whole lot of need for landscape fabric. Yes, it's a nice little extra but at how much expense.
Excavate your right of way to several inches below the surface. Make sure to remove all living materials like roots, sod, weeds, etc. Make sure to slope this sub grade away from your track bed. Fill with crushed gravel/rock and level. Lay your track on this. Then infill with more gravel between the ties. Now you can level the track side to side and grade it lengthwise. When done, the track should be a few to several inches above the original ground. This makes the water run down on to the original ground away from your track.
Ties. I sure understand the expense of buying new pressure treated 4 x 4s. I might suggest you keep an eye on Craig's list for your area. Specifically the FREE ads. Look for the free "large" pallets. These are often up to 8' long and the main supports are usually 4 x 4s. Break down the pallet for the 4 x 4s and the rest is firewood. If you don't burn, put an ad on Craig's list to get rid of it. You can sell it cheap or give it away for free. Pretty soon, you'll get the reputation for the large pallets and you will get calls to come and pick them up. Construction sites are also good sources of lumber. Be sure to establish a good rapport with the superintendent so he'll let you in. Make sure to get his permission to take what ever you want. Many sites have "Wood Only" dumpsters. Be VERY careful diving these as there are all sorts of hazards but usually worth it for the free lumber. Many times, the short stuff you're looking for is the stuff they throw away because it's too short for them to use economically. While all of this is NOT pressure treated, the price is right. You may or may not have a treatment plant in your area. I'm lucky to have a creosoting plant near by. I was planning on sending lumber to them for treatment after I cut it into tie length pieces.
Make sure to ask questions about things you do not understand. Also, please remember my post are JUST my advice. They are NOT the ONLY way and may not be the BEST way but they have worked for me and many of the Grand Scale railroaders I know. I have one requirement pertaining to the use of my advice: Take what you like and sounds good, Throw the rest away. I understand completely and will NOT be offended in any way. Not being there with you , Not know you, Not knowing your train and track, Not knowing your site, all make for circumstances where my advice may absolutely NOT work for you. One thing it will do: Broaden your horizons. You will know more than when you bought your train.
Good Luck,
I'm not sure what you mean by; how many yards. There are not many hard and fast "rules" when it comes to track plan. While there are some very nice ideas, such as "S" curves, they may be harder to do than they're worth. It takes more horsepower to pull a train through a curve than on a straight. When you compound the curves, as in an "S" curve, you can really bog down a locomotive. Generally, you should have at least one full straight section between curves. In your case, 10' might be fine but it may be a little short. If you plan on a large sweeping loop, you can put a couple of straight sections between two curves. Obstacles, such as trees, fences, ticket stands, etc., need to be included in your track plan so you can keep the largest radii curves yet not exclude the features from your railroad.
Almost all landscape supply companies have crushed rock. Some with "mixes" such as 3/4 minus. If you can't get crushed washed, get the straight, screened, crushed. It's better to have straight crushed than have all the smaller (minus) "dirt" in the mix. This is specifically related to the best materials for the ties.
When you lay your track, many people will recommend using landscape fabric on the ground under the gravel. I believe, it's your choice. I have witnessed more dirt contamination of the ballast from the sky than I have from underneath. This is specifically Grand Scale not full size railroads.
Grand Scale is small enough to eliminate the "pumping" of the track. Full size railroad are very heavy and flex the track under the train. The ties are forced up and down or "pumped". Add a little moisture and you will get mud very quickly. Grand Scale rolling stock are too light to get any serious pumping if the track is laid on a decent bed of ballast and then infilled with more ballast to finish. Thus, I see some but not a whole lot of need for landscape fabric. Yes, it's a nice little extra but at how much expense.
Excavate your right of way to several inches below the surface. Make sure to remove all living materials like roots, sod, weeds, etc. Make sure to slope this sub grade away from your track bed. Fill with crushed gravel/rock and level. Lay your track on this. Then infill with more gravel between the ties. Now you can level the track side to side and grade it lengthwise. When done, the track should be a few to several inches above the original ground. This makes the water run down on to the original ground away from your track.
Ties. I sure understand the expense of buying new pressure treated 4 x 4s. I might suggest you keep an eye on Craig's list for your area. Specifically the FREE ads. Look for the free "large" pallets. These are often up to 8' long and the main supports are usually 4 x 4s. Break down the pallet for the 4 x 4s and the rest is firewood. If you don't burn, put an ad on Craig's list to get rid of it. You can sell it cheap or give it away for free. Pretty soon, you'll get the reputation for the large pallets and you will get calls to come and pick them up. Construction sites are also good sources of lumber. Be sure to establish a good rapport with the superintendent so he'll let you in. Make sure to get his permission to take what ever you want. Many sites have "Wood Only" dumpsters. Be VERY careful diving these as there are all sorts of hazards but usually worth it for the free lumber. Many times, the short stuff you're looking for is the stuff they throw away because it's too short for them to use economically. While all of this is NOT pressure treated, the price is right. You may or may not have a treatment plant in your area. I'm lucky to have a creosoting plant near by. I was planning on sending lumber to them for treatment after I cut it into tie length pieces.
Make sure to ask questions about things you do not understand. Also, please remember my post are JUST my advice. They are NOT the ONLY way and may not be the BEST way but they have worked for me and many of the Grand Scale railroaders I know. I have one requirement pertaining to the use of my advice: Take what you like and sounds good, Throw the rest away. I understand completely and will NOT be offended in any way. Not being there with you , Not know you, Not knowing your train and track, Not knowing your site, all make for circumstances where my advice may absolutely NOT work for you. One thing it will do: Broaden your horizons. You will know more than when you bought your train.
Good Luck,