Wheels to axles — which Loctite?

[michaellynn2]

I built a Little Engines Pacific back in the 70s. The main driver had a crankpin that free spun in the main driver. Instead of sending the pin back to Little Engines, I put Loctite on the crankpin and let it set. That crankpin has not spun in 30+ years of operation. If it had the engines timing would have been thrown off.

[Bill Shields]

In addition to all the good ideas above, I can suggest that you also wipe down the contacting areas of parts in acetone and allow to dry before assembly....ESPECIALLY of you use cutting oil..

A little clearance is important and allowing the wheel to self-center a good idea. YES, the stuff will adhere on a size to size fit but it is not the best way to go.

[Trainman4602]

What would Eli Whitney have Done??????

[John Hasler]

In addition to all the good ideas above, I can suggest that you also wipe down the contacting areas of parts in acetone and allow to dry before assembly....ESPECIALLY of you use cutting oil..

A little clearance is important and allowing the wheel to self-center a good idea. YES, the stuff will adhere on a size to size fit but it is not the best way to go.

I've been reading up on interference fits lately. They are recommending combining adhesives and interference fits. They say that this can produce a joint up to five times as strong as interference alone. They also say that a press fit with adhesives will require a lot more force than without, though, and the operation must be completed quickly.

Im going to try combining a shrink fit with red Loctite. It can withstand the 400F required.

[ccvstmr]

Greg...while others discuss the virtues of Loctite (good or bad), have you ever thought about tightening up your lathe spindle? There's a ring on the far left end of the spindle that is used to take up the slack between the bearings. If you're not sure, there are instructions about this on the net. After tightening, you can monitor the bearing housing temperature with an IR gun if you have one. If not...Harbor Freight is a good stop for a relatively inexpensive IR gun. Just sayin'... Carl B.

[Greg_Lewis]

Thanks, Carl. I'll check. It's been years since I did that.

[optigman]

Red Loctite is a thread locker. The 600 series are Retaining Compounds. I would use 620 which goes to 450f and is high strength long before I would use Red Threadlocker for securing something to a shaft or axle. When properly applied the Retaining Compound almost acts like a lubricant when pressing the part to the shaft but must be done quickly without pausing while pressing to avoid premature grabbing and setting in an incorrect position. There is a comprehensive comparison chart on page 17 of the Loctite products Retaining Compounds website that one can refer to for proper product choice. Seems the logical choices for securing wheel to axle would be 648, 638, 680, 620, 660, or 640 depending on gap, temp, and heat requirements. I would probably use 648, 638, or 680 as they are all high strength not requiring activators so the only decision would be the diametral gap / press fit final decision. Optigman

[Fred_V]

Greg...while others discuss the virtues of Loctite (good or bad), have you ever thought about tightening up your lathe spindle? There's a ring on the far left end of the spindle that is used to take up the slack between the bearings. If you're not sure, there are instructions about this on the net. After tightening, you can monitor the bearing housing temperature with an IR gun if you have one. If not...Harbor Freight is a good stop for a relatively inexpensive IR gun. Just sayin'... Carl B.

What happens with Atlas/Craftsman lathes is the outer race at the chuck end of the spindle beats against the iron headstock due to chatter. This eventually makes the outer race a loose fit in the headstock and chatter gets worse and worse and accuracy goes out the window. The only fix is to Loctite the race into the headstock. Then sell the lathe and buy something worth having.
Fred V

[Trainman4602]

Here Here Fred I agree With todays cheap Chinese lathes there is no excuses to make bad parts and Loctite the wheels on any cheap lathe is better than a junk lathe. Just get a new lathe and start making good parts. Remember CHEAP IS DANGEROUS!

[cbrew]

I will go ahead and throw in my two cents on the subject.
if the skills and machine is up to hitting a proper interference hit, then by all means use it.

but a bad/light interference fit is far more likely to fail then a properly "glued" joint.
I personally own a emco super11, and with a freshly sharpened cutter, i can hit .001 + .001 interference fit on 1144 with ease.

I have not issue using/hitting the correct fit If i am using wheels i machine.
but if i am using purchased wheels. I will go with the "glue.
I have had a single box of steel wheels very as much as .002" on the axle bore. you can see how that can screw up your day.
also use the "glue" method if i am turning axles for others.

I hit .005 under and use #680. with proper cleaning with acetone on both mating surfaces. never had a joint failure.
the only rework i had to do is replace the axle due to bearing failure. even after applying heat. it still takes a trip to the press to remove the wheel.

as far as i am concerned, either method works great as long as proper procedures are followed.
Brew

[little giant]

What would Eli Whitney have Done??????

Eli would probably urinated on it. I have read that's what they did prior to loctite.

[John Hasler]

What would Eli Whitney have Done??????

If he was around now he'd use Loctite.