Loading Ramp Angle

[doublereefed]

I'm trying to figure out how to unload from a trailer to an existing loading ramp at local club. Club ramp height is 16". Trailer deck is 32". With a 10' ramp it looks like a 7.7° approach angle. Does anyone have experience that could let me know if this is workable?

Thanks...

[Bill Shields]

depends on many things....first of all -> WEIGHT of the loco? If you have a 1000# loco...can you handle the resultant weight on the ramp

second:

does the suspension of the loco have enough travel to allow wheels to 'go over the hump' or 'into the valley' without reaching the limit of travel and causing obvious problems of flanges leaving the rails?

While your idea may work for YOUR SPECIFIC LOCO, there are a myriad of reasons why most of the clubs have 'vertical lifts' rather than ramps.

[pat1027]

I go across something similar to that at a track I visit. Taking a 4-6-2 up and down the locomotive pivots on the top as the drivers come on/off the ramp. At the bottom the drivers lift from the rail with the lead and training trucks carrying the weight. At both ends you have to keep the wheels aligned with the ramp. At the bottom the pilot drags on the ramp. It takes more than one person to navigate the locomotive up and down. It's not my favorite thing to do but it is one of my favorite tracks to visit so we make it work out.

[Bill Shields]

a 10' long ramp.....is going to be very unwieldy....

what does the loco weigh?

[doublereefed]

Pat, Bill - Yes I will definitely be sliding on the pilot on the acute angles. It's an RMI Forney, so it weighs 1,000 lbs dry? I'm seeing aluminum ramps with 3,000 lbs ratings (15" wide) that are available but spendy. Thinking I would more likely build at wood framed truss with a mid support. I'm more worried about making sure the ramp stays 100% attached to the trailer. I can overshoot the end on the track side so that it can move fore and aft a bit.

It will definitely requires several capable friends to do this safely/successfully...

Agreed, not the preferred situation but the club doesn't have a lift yet.

[Steggy]

Tilting the trailer while loading/unloading may be a possible help. You'd have to figure out how to lift the trailer's tongue without losing control and having the trailer do a “wheelie” when the loco's weight is on the rear end.

[Bill Shields]

ugh...i would think twice about doing this with a wood ramp....

[pat1027]

I'd go steel. The one I go across has angle for the rail and is trussed using flat bar. It's sturdy. One person can lift it (just) though two make it much easier. The table end can slide fore and aft on the rail.

[Greg_Lewis]

I'd be looking at a hydraulic motorcycle lift from Harbor Freight. (https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-s ... 68892.html)
IMHO this would be safer and easier to deal with than a ramp. Perhaps the club would contribute to buying it and keeping it for others to use as well. And it's all done and ready to go at a price that probably equals what it would take to buy the materials to make one. I've got one in my shop and it works fine.

[cbrew]

I'd be looking at a hydraulic motorcycle lift from Harbor Freight. (https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-s ... 68892.html)
IMHO this would be safer and easier to deal with than a ramp. Perhaps the club would contribute to buying it and keeping it for others to use as well. And it's all done and ready to go at a price that probably equals what it would take to buy the materials to make one. I've got one in my shop and it works fine.

after almost loosing a locomotive off the end of one these lifts due to the offset, I will stay clear of these

[Greg_Lewis]

I'd be looking at a hydraulic motorcycle lift from Harbor Freight. (https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-s ... 68892.html)
IMHO this would be safer and easier to deal with than a ramp. Perhaps the club would contribute to buying it and keeping it for others to use as well. And it's all done and ready to go at a price that probably equals what it would take to buy the materials to make one. I've got one in my shop and it works fine.

after almost loosing a locomotive off the end of one these lifts due to the offset, I will stay clear of these

That sounds scary. An outrigger to extend the base under the overhanging end will solve that problem.

[Dick_Morris]

Some random thoughts from someone who almost never tows a trailer -
A short supplemental ramp to set on top of the junction between your ramp and the track's ramp, maybe two or three feet long to avoid the abrupt change in angle.
Ramps to go under the rear wheels of the tow vehicle to raise the front and lower the back of the trailer.
You might be able to lower the rear of the trailer a couple of inches or more by the raising trailer tongue jack without unhitching the trailer.
A small electric winch to keep everything under control going down and to avoid having to push it up hill.
Raise the ball on the tow vehicle.