side rod bushings

This forum is dedicated to the Live Steam Hobbyist Community.

Moderators: cbrew, Harold_V

Post Reply
twaggenspack
Posts: 38
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2006 2:16 pm
Location: Baton Rouge, La.

side rod bushings

Post by twaggenspack »

Is there a preference to make the side rod bushings out of? Bronze…Oil impregnated…

Is there any reason why or why not? Also, where can the stock material be obtained? I would like to cut them out or larger stock to assure a good press in fit. I don’t trust a 1” bushing to be a full 1”.
pockets
Posts: 807
Joined: Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:55 pm
Location: Kimball, Michigan

Post by pockets »

Twaggenspack (I won't ask),
I can't speak to the suitability, but both MSC and Boston Gear carry the stock, as well as any decently stocked bearing supply house.

Greg B.
User avatar
LivingLegend
Posts: 2149
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 3:55 pm
Location: The Boonies of Alabama

Post by LivingLegend »

SAE 660 bearing bronze is the bronze of choice. You can get machined 660 bushings ready to use in stock sizes (Std. i.d. x o.d. x length). If the exact bushing length you need isn't a standard size, buy a longer bushing and face it to the length required.

If you want to machine your own, or need a non-standard size (i.d., o.d., length), 660 is also available in solid (from 1/2" o.d.) or cored (1/2" i.d. up) stock to machine to your own spec's and is sold in 13" and 36" lengths. You can purchase it from bearing supply houses or McMaster-Carr, MSC, etc.

DO NOT use oil-impregnated (Oilite) bushings for side or main rods or valve motion rods. Oilite stock is sintered, powdered bronze. That's how it achives it's porousity to retain oil. It won't last as long as solid 660, especially if used on a larger engine. The pounding action of the side rods, particularly that of the main rod, against the crankpin or crosshead pin will compress the pores of the oilite and the bushing will lose its ability to self-lubricate. It will also become egg-shaped in shorter length of time. Also, when turning/boring Oilite, unless a SHARP tip (absolutely no tip radius) toolbit is used, the pores of the material will generally be closed over and it's self-lube properties will be diminished or lost.

Living Legend

(P.S. Don't take my Living Legend "handle" seriously. It was given to me by one of my machinist/toolmaker mentors)
Bill Shields

Oilite

Post by Bill Shields »

Second the motion on oilite on rod bearings...stay away from it.

Phosphor bronze is my favorite for this application..
Andypullen
Posts: 2166
Joined: Thu May 22, 2003 8:17 am
Location: Bel Air, MD

Post by Andypullen »

I'll third the motion about oilite....

I also like phosphor bronze. 660 is decent, too....

Andy Pullen
Clausing 10x24, Sheldon 12" shaper, ProtoTrak AGE-2 control cnc on a BP clone, Reed Prentice 14" x 30", Sanford MG 610 surface grinder, Kalamazoo 610 bandsaw, Hardinge HSL speed lathe, Hardinge HC chucker, Kearney and Trecker #2K plain horizontal mill, Haas TL-1 lathe.
User avatar
LivingLegend
Posts: 2149
Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 3:55 pm
Location: The Boonies of Alabama

Post by LivingLegend »

I've also made bushings from phosphor bronze, even made a few from aluminum bronze (tough stuff!!!) I've leaned towards 660 because larger local bearing houses tend to have a decent selection available of solid stock sizes as well as sleeve bushings in inventory.

When you decide on your choice of material, 660, phosphor bronze or whatever, look in your local phone book for Motion Industries. They are nationwide and it is likely they have a branch in Baton Rouge or in an adjacent city. They sell solid (and cored) 660 rounds. Don't know if they have any phosphor bronze stock. If they can't/won't order phos-brnz for you, you might be stuck ordering from McMaster-Carr, MSC, etc.... Won't be cheap.

Just stay away from Oilite and you'll be OK with either of the two bronzes.
Post Reply