Disney American

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daves1459
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Location: Plainfield, Illinois

Re: Disney American

Post by daves1459 »

Thanks for the tip. Good info!

Dave
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JBodenmann
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Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
Location: Tehachapi, California

Re: Disney American

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
I use whatever is laying around for O rings. I think it was Buna. It will last for years. #9 had Buna O rings and they lasted for four or five years. After that they may get a bit hard and flattened out. A bag of a hundred only costs a few bucks.
Get R' Done!
Jack
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JBodenmann
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Re: Disney American

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Here are a few photos of the blowdown arrangement. The top photo shows the hand wheel and shaft through the running board. The hand wheel was just fabricated. The bracket and shaft have yet to be painted. The second photo shows the valve hiding behind the driver axle with it's U joint union and elbow facing downward. You can see what a tight fit it is. The bonnet and stem had to be removed so the valve could spin around for tightening. Then the bonnet and stem were replaced. Probably the most difficult part was tightening the union nut. Not much room to work a wrench. The last photo shows the end of the outlet pipe next to the crosshead pump. There is a bracket holding this pipe in place. The bracket uses one of the pedestal binder bolts. This blowdown set up was quite a fiddle but then I always enjoy a good puzzle.
Happy Model Building
Jack
Attachments
Handwheel.jpg
Valve.jpg
Outlet.jpg
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JBodenmann
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Re: Disney American

Post by JBodenmann »

Just one more photo for now, CP 173. If you look closely you can see the hand wheel for the blow down. I enlarged a cropped photo. It's pretty grainy but there it is.
Jack
Attachments
Locomotive_cp_173.jpg
Blowup.jpg
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Dick_Morris
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Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2003 2:09 pm
Location: Anchorage, AK

Re: Disney American

Post by Dick_Morris »

Thanks! That gives me some ideas on how to improve on the blowdown on my CP-173.
Cary Stewart
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 5:54 pm

Re: Disney American

Post by Cary Stewart »

Your photo of CP173 is dated correctly for the build date. However, this photo shows the engine as it looked after a major backshop job in the early 1880s. I think about 1883. Note the jamb brakes between the drivers.The engine is black, the wheels are red centers with black tires. The tender lettering is very colorful as is the numbers on the cab and sand dome. Mostly it is as it was built though.
Cary
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JBodenmann
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Re: Disney American

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Thanks Cary. George's engine has jam brakes. And it will have an early Westinghouse air compressor and brake valve. In the photo you can't see it but the 173 had a compressor, on the engineers side. As you say these engines had very colorful lettering and lots of gold leaf. I have done both but not in quite a few years. I will have to do a bit of practicing, and get my nerve up before attempting this on Georges engine.
See you in the funny pages...
Jack
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JBodenmann
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Re: Disney American

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Haven't posted much on the American for a while. Here is a lubricator that is being made. This lubricator will look like an air reservoir under the boiler behind the cylinder saddle. On these early tea kettles that was common. It is made from 2" Dia. 1/16" wall brass tube. It uses a Van Brocklin type pump assembly. A couple changes were made to the drive mechanism. He used roller clutches without any additional support of the crank shaft. Here a small ball bearing assembly was used on each side of the roller clutch, and two more in the crank support. In the middle photo the square bit on top will be the mount for the pump assembly and will be on the bottom. The round disc with the hole in it will be a bulkhead mount and will be soldered inside the tube. The round disc laying on it will be the bulkhead- drive assembly mount. The drive assembly will fit through this disc. There will be a slot in the 2" tube for the drive arm. A couple other changes were made to his design. The drive eccentric was changed from free machining brass to phosphor bronze and the end of the piston was changed from plain cold rolled to polished hardened steel. The piston it's self from cold rolled to stainless. Sometimes water can back feed into the pump and cold rolled would then cause problems. More to come.
Jack
Attachments
Lube 1.jpg
Lube2.jpg
Lube 3.jpg
Pontiacguy1
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Location: Tennessee, USA

Re: Disney American

Post by Pontiacguy1 »

What kind of shaft material do you use for that? In the past, my problem with a roller clutch was not the clutch unit itself, it is that after a few years of use, the shaft would wear down a few thousandths and then the clutch would stop working consistently. I would just replace the shaft, and a couple of years later, same deal. Was wondering if you had found something better.
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JBodenmann
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Re: Disney American

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
For the crank shaft water hardening tool steel is used. It is hardened and then annealed to straw color. The tricky part is the annealing. It's easy to go past straw to violet. Check the hardness with a file when done. I have case hardened them also and that seems to work well.
Jack
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Greg_Lewis
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Location: Fresno, CA

Re: Disney American

Post by Greg_Lewis »

How about a drill blank? Shouldn't they be hard enough? Thus no need to atempt hardening.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
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JBodenmann
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Re: Disney American

Post by JBodenmann »

Hello My Friends
Greg is right a drill blank is hard enough. The problem with this is there are threads cut on both ends of the crank shaft rod. #5-40 on the eccentric end and #4-40 on the driven end.
Jack
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