Form Tool for Wheel Flanges

[sslry]

Some years back there was a form tool offered by a supplier for turning 1-1/2" scale wheel flanges. Is that still available and from whom?

Thanks,

[8thscale]

I have and use one from Rogers-Cooke Locomotive.
I think the owner Bob Holder died last year(?)

I have not seen or heard about others.
Dave

[sslry]

Thanks to all that have replied. It's a shame that it is not still available. To grind one accurately in an average home shop would seem a bit difficult. I have an electronic controller on a South Bend 16" lathe so I might be able to avoid the chatter problem of a form tool.

Thanks again.

[Andy Rafferty]

No problem grinding it yourself. Use a razor type cutting wheel in your angle grinder on a pc. of HHS. Make it fit a flange (IBLS okay but i prefer Tom Bee's) contour you like and include the relief. I have Bob Holder's for a pattern and made L and R myself by Tom Bee's drawing. Works Great!

[jtdute]

I had a few made awhile ago and have a couple left. If you search the Market Place they were listed there.

Jeff

[sslry]

I tried to PM or direct mail you but I'm not sure it worked. Any way, is the price $100. If so I would like to buy one.

Thanks,

[Dick_Morris]

Jim,

When I did a batch of wheels I used a carbide insert cutter with the correct radius. It took a few more steps, but I tend to be too cheap to buy a form tool and don't think my 12" Asian lathe would be happy making that wide of a cut.

Here's a description - http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/vie ... 33&t=89197

[Mike Walsh]

Just befriend someone who works at an EDM shop and have them cut the tool for you out of tool steel. Make sure it is already full-hardened before it goes to them. You will have to provide them with the profile you want - you can make it the EXACT profile - you don't have to do any compensation for "shrinkage" or anything of the sort as the tool will already be hardened and you won't be modifying the shape any further.

Other option is to get a regular carbide tool insert and set it up for the tread-side of the flange (5-8 degrees?) and then you can cut one side of your flange as well as the tread using the compound. Just make sure the cutting radius of your insert is the same as the inside radius of the flange.

[sslry]

Jim,

When I did a batch of wheels I used a carbide insert cutter with the correct radius. It took a few more steps, but I tend to be too cheap to buy a form tool and don't think my 12" Asian lathe would be happy making that wide of a cut.

Here's a description - http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/vie ... 33&t=89197

Thanks for the reply and the information Dick. The larger insert with the correct fillet radius is a good thought. I will try using the form tool I have sent for after roughing the casting to size and taking off the crust that loves to destroy tools. I may or may not have success regarding chatter but the electronic speed control seems to help and I can get down to a very slow speed still maintaining enough power. We really should all have Monarch double Es for this job.

[kvom]

I also bought one of these form tools for my A3 build. I used low speed in back gear and very slow manual feed, esp. as the tool nears the final where the whole length of the form is engaged in the work.

[steamin10]

I hand ground a similar tool that was a square lump of cutter, 1/4 inch thick. It had the entire profile of the wheel tread included, flang, root raious, taper and front side roundover. I did not cut the entire profile at first, Using the 4 way i sued a roughing tool to get close in shape and dimension, and then indexed the formtool over the rough piece and gently plunged in to my known feed postion. A bit of lube before the plunge made for a smooth cut. Best is it takes only 2 tools and a short time to shape the wheel tread.

I have gone to flat back wheels out of bar slugs of sufficient size, to hang two wheels off the chuck. I run the flanges a small space between and plunge out the center and finish with my band saw, as my parting tool is not stable enough for the 2"+ plunge it takes to part the siamese parts. It is simple to bolt the wheel back to the jaws, and slice the back flat to the correct thickness.