Allen Mogul Loose Driver

Fender · Post by **Fender** » Sat Aug 04, 2012 8:39 pm

Understand that your lathe is not available at the moment, so my suggestion may not work unless you have access to another lathe.
If you use loctite (e.g. 620) on the axle, put a faceplate on the lathe and put centers in the headstock and tailstock. Goop up the axle and driver with loctite, slide the driver on the axle, and mount the driver axle between centers with the "bad" driver on the left. Then, use identical spacers/shims at three points between the face of the driver and the faceplate (and C-clamps around the driver and faceplate) to ensure the driver sets up parallel to the faceplate, and won't "wobble" when the adhesive has set. You may have to remove the crankpin on that side for this to work. Also ensure the the back-to-back dimesion is correct.

kvom · Post by **kvom** » Sun Aug 05, 2012 10:15 am

My experience with 620 (my axle diameter 7/8") was that it started to set within a couple of seconds. The recommended application is to turn the wheel on the shaft a bit when installing, but with the Woodruff key you'd need to slide it on straight. So in this case you want to make sure there's loctite on all of the axle and wheel surfaces.

Fender · Post by **Fender** » Sun Aug 05, 2012 12:41 pm

Another way to keep the drivers on each side in alignment would be to use spacers between the backs of the drivers. No lathe needed. Just set the axle on end with the "good" driver on the bottom, set the spacers about 120 degrees apart on the back of that driver, goop up the axle and the "bad" driver, and slide the driver on the axle. Apply weight to the top driver to ensure it is pressed down against the spacers.

dnevil · Post by **dnevil** » Fri Aug 24, 2012 2:43 pm

Ok, so after having power run to the shop (200 amp service) and installing a 3-phase rotary phase converter, my lathe is almost ready to use (have to level it). So, I think I am going to take the suggestion of boring a larger hole in the driver and inserting a bushing and pressing back onto the axle (with the addition of Loctite).

I also plan to cut a recess into the backs of the drivers. Currently they are flat. They are rubbing against the equalizers and wearing them thin.

I am thinking of using iron pipe for the bushing. Would that be strong enough?

Bill Shields · Post by **Bill Shields** » Fri Aug 24, 2012 2:59 pm

should be...are you keying?

dnevil · Post by **dnevil** » Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:21 pm

Yes. My plan is to turn the bushing to the correct ID and OD, then cut a slot for the key. I believe the axle is 1.000 (or close to that). Any idea how much extra I should allow for ID and OD on the bushing for a tight fit? Around 0.015?

Fred_V · Post by **Fred_V** » Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:32 pm

dnevil wrote:Yes. My plan is to turn the bushing to the correct ID and OD, then cut a slot for the key. I believe the axle is 1.000 (or close to that). Any idea how much extra I should allow for ID and OD on the bushing for a tight fit? Around 0.015?

do you mean .0015" or .015"? the former would be correct.

dnevil · Post by **dnevil** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 9:12 am

Yes, thanks for the correction to .0015".

tburzio · Post by **tburzio** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 12:15 am

Wouldn't it just be easier to put in a seat belt so the driver doesn't fall off any more?

dnevil · Post by **dnevil** » Tue Aug 28, 2012 10:48 am

Or I could stop drinking I suppose

dnevil · Post by **dnevil** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 3:16 pm

I have machined a bushing for the loose driver/axle. I started with a 1" by 1/2" cast iron pipe bushing. I threaded the bushing onto a short length of 1/2" pipe and used the pipe as an arbor mounted in 3 jaw chuck. I cut the outside diameter to 1.125". Removed the bushing from the pipe, turned it around in the chuck and bored the inside diameter to 1.000".

I've mounted the driver with the over-sized hole, as shown below. I will bore to 1.1235".

Kimball McGinley · Post by **Kimball McGinley** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:05 pm

I sure hope that you were able to maintain concentricity machining the bushing that way, in a 3-jaw. I would have either turned it first, then used a collet for the bore, or bored it first, then turned a custom spud and, then turned the O.D. Do you have any way to check?