Emco V10 drive pully end float
Moderator: Harold_V
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Emco V10 drive pully end float
I've been hearing a knocking noise from around the motor belt area. Turns out my emco driven pully (headstock end) is quite sloppy on the shaft (I'm going to bore and sleeve it). I pulled it off, was looking closley at the shaft and noticed it had a lot of end float - about 1/2mm (20 thou).
Can someone please tug on their shaft and see if it's the same?
Can someone please tug on their shaft and see if it's the same?
hi lakeside,
my machine has this same problem, just discovered it so i came searching for answers. i had some knocking, and saw that the drive belt had walked off the pulley a little.
i have about 1mm of play on that pulley also. i pulled it apart to see that the layshaft and journal bearings have some wear on them most likely contributing to the play. the layshaft bearing (on the pulley side) and the pulley and the bearing cover also have some wear.
im thinking about making a new journal bearing (opposite end of the shaft) that is a little longer than the original to take up the slack, but i still need to re-evaluate that. the layshaft bearing is pressed pretty well into the bearing cover, and very soft so im a little scared to knock it out and make a new one of those. or i was thinking maybe shim it with a bronze washer, but i wouldnt know how to get or make one thin enough to work.
any ideas?
my machine has this same problem, just discovered it so i came searching for answers. i had some knocking, and saw that the drive belt had walked off the pulley a little.
i have about 1mm of play on that pulley also. i pulled it apart to see that the layshaft and journal bearings have some wear on them most likely contributing to the play. the layshaft bearing (on the pulley side) and the pulley and the bearing cover also have some wear.
im thinking about making a new journal bearing (opposite end of the shaft) that is a little longer than the original to take up the slack, but i still need to re-evaluate that. the layshaft bearing is pressed pretty well into the bearing cover, and very soft so im a little scared to knock it out and make a new one of those. or i was thinking maybe shim it with a bronze washer, but i wouldnt know how to get or make one thin enough to work.
any ideas?
i re-examined the play in the pulley.
although there is a good amount of lateral movement in the shaft i dont think that is a problem. the pulley fits pretty loose on the shaft end. i think i am going to try and make a thin split sleeve that fits over the shaft to take up the slop in the pulley.
good thing i can run the lathe to make the part!
although there is a good amount of lateral movement in the shaft i dont think that is a problem. the pulley fits pretty loose on the shaft end. i think i am going to try and make a thin split sleeve that fits over the shaft to take up the slop in the pulley.
good thing i can run the lathe to make the part!
- steamin10
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Pulleys are notorious for getting an hourglass bore from the belt tension rolling the metal out of the bore.
One answer is a new pulley of course. Thats no fun, so boring the pulley to an oversize, and fitting a sleeve with the key in it is much more fun. Putting in a larger set screw is helpfull to, as is using industrial thread locker when its all lined up.
I am surprised at over the years how many well used machines suffer from these wear conditions alone, and how well this works. In multiperson shops, these details are ignored because they dont make money, and fall from importance.
One answer is a new pulley of course. Thats no fun, so boring the pulley to an oversize, and fitting a sleeve with the key in it is much more fun. Putting in a larger set screw is helpfull to, as is using industrial thread locker when its all lined up.
I am surprised at over the years how many well used machines suffer from these wear conditions alone, and how well this works. In multiperson shops, these details are ignored because they dont make money, and fall from importance.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.
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i would love to take this route, but id need to buy a second lathe to do that!steamin10 wrote:
One answer is a new pulley of course. Thats no fun, so boring the pulley to an oversize, and fitting a sleeve with the key in it is much more fun. Putting in a larger set screw is helpfull to, as is using industrial thread locker when its all lined up.
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- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:21 pm
- Location: Vallejo California
I have the V10 P Mentor and never had trouble with the belt.
What I had several times is small chips that fall into the gears and cause a clacking noise.
I had at times to carefully scrape each gullet on the gears with a sharp scriber.
They're hard to find some times because they can be pushed down tight and they may look just like nothing is there.
Turn the chuck by hand at low speed. If you still get a noise then there is something in the gears.
What I had several times is small chips that fall into the gears and cause a clacking noise.
I had at times to carefully scrape each gullet on the gears with a sharp scriber.
They're hard to find some times because they can be pushed down tight and they may look just like nothing is there.
Turn the chuck by hand at low speed. If you still get a noise then there is something in the gears.
There are no problems, only solutions.
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa
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Retired journeyman machinist and 3D CAD mechanical designer - hobbyist - grandpa