new toy

Home enthusiasts discuss their Foundry & Casting work.

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Post by steamin10 » Sat Jan 23, 2010 10:07 pm

Ahah! Air boosted spray. Most oil burners are sensative to fuel pressure and have screens and fine nozzles, making them unsuitable for waste lube oils and such. Too much junk. Filtering a 1/2 barrel of lube oil cost me 5 50 microm filters in a hurry, so I abandoned the project just then. I had created an air blown nozzle, where an air oriface blew across a spoon, and sucked the fuel into a sheet and out the end in a course spray. But could not get a clear flame, and it popped and snorted with gouts of black sooty smoke. NEXT! The burner gun is under the snow for a coupla years now, I gotta go look. its outta a 100 K furnace I think, just the gun unit.
Big Dave, former Millwright, Electrician, Environmental conditioning, and back yard Fixxit guy. Now retired, persuing boats, trains, and broken relics.
We have enough youth, how about a fountain of Smart. My computer beat me at chess, but not kickboxing
It is not getting caught in the rain, its learning to dance in it. People saying good morning, should have to prove it.

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Post by JHenriksen » Mon Jan 25, 2010 8:55 pm

I made a filter head to take a regular ph8a car oil filter to put in the pressure line for the furnace. We change it every month and it seems to work good. The heater in the control block next to the burner heats to about 130. The oil is warm on your hand but not exceswsively hot. Vegetable oils need to be heated to at least 275 f, 300 is better. The biodiesel guys are buying that up so the price is prohibitive.
For our unit, the fan control slots are supposed to be open 1/2 inch. That is for a furnace flame, a bit yellow and 'brushy'
For a hotter longer flame, more oil pressure and more air pressure for the injector nozzel. I've played a bit with this one. 25 psi air and 10 psi oil is a big yellow-white flame. It would make the back deflector turn red in the bright light in about 2 minutes.

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