Patio's projects

[Patio]

Thanks Jack, I hope things are going well in Idaho, for you. Harold has been a great help.

[Patio]

A little part I made for a friend, made of Delrin and brass. It is a knob for a bacon frying utensil.

My 0-3" micrometer set, that I bought when I first started, and have been using since, is a $27.00 set from HF.
I bought myself a present, that will help me get the bearing measurements that I need for the Panhead lower end rebuild.

They are called Combimike by Mititoyo. They measure imperial, with a vernier on the thimble, and mm on the counter. They are like new condition and cost less than $100.00, from separate dealers, for the pair on EBay.

I have an injury to my right hand, that needs time to heal and is making shop time more difficult, so things are running a little slow here at the moment.

[JackF]

Nice mikes. Have a rapid recovery.


Jack.

[Patio]

Thanks Jack! It is getting better, not 100% but I can use it now.

I bought a BXA tool post for the Cazenuve lathe. I need it to run 3/4" tooling that has inserts. My Dorian indexing QC tool holder sits a little high. So I bought a cheep one to try for a bit. The lathe can hold a CXA size tool post, as the mounting hole is 3/4" which is the size of the center bolt on a CXA size. When mounting a smaller tool post, like my AXA, I turn an adapter so as to fit the bolt into the hole on the compound. I use a 3/4"X16 grade 8 bolt for the material. Drill and tap the ID for what ever holder I am mounting on the compound. The BXA tool post, that I bought, uses a 5/8"X18 bolt.
I know this is pretty simple stuff, but it sure is nice to be able to make what I need.

Here are the pictures.
Head of the doner grade 8 bolt, the left over scrap and the reducing adapter.

Bolt and adapter installed.

All the other holes are from various mounts that have been used on the compound, none of which I have.

[JackF]

Nice work Pat. I've said it before; I don't know how I ever got along without a lathe and a mill, not very well.


Jack.

[liveaboard]

how does delrin compare with nylon for that sort of application?
I have some nylon but have no experience of delrin.
I need to make some gear shift knobs for my old agricultural tractor.
I feel the nylon isn't the right material; brass would be nice but too expensive.
Knobs will be about 40mm diameter.

[Harold_V]

In regards to machining, the two can not be compared. With sharp tools, Nylon (101) cuts easily, but with burrs that are difficult to remove, while Delrin machines very nicely and easily, leaving virtually no burrs at all, and what little burr is created is easily removed. Aside from Teflon, there is no easier plastic to machine than Delrin, which, unlike Teflon, doesn't present any holding issues.

Delrin, used where exposed to sunlight, degrades, albeit slowly. That may not be true of all Delrin, for some may have a UV blocker in its composition (I don't know). I'm speaking from a personal experience, whereby Delrin fittings on a boat I used to own responded poorly.

Harold

[warmstrong1955]

I tried several different plastics, starting with Teflon, the material of the one I copied, making some long, plain front head bearings for some rock drills.

I found that cast nylon, unlike regular nylon, machines much more like Delrin. Non 'hairy' like regular nylon.
Oil filled cast nylon is even better. Comes out shiny like Teflon. Ugly muckle-dee-dung green though....and the shade varied between batches. Not quite what you want to use for a control knob.....unless you like muckel-dee-dung green.

Best part was, the oil filled cast nylon cost less, machined easier, and held up better than all the other plastics I tried. They lasted about 6 times longer than the Teflon.

Bill

[GlennW]

.....unless you like muckel-dee-dung green.

Is that on the Ralph Lauren or the Martha Stewart color chart?

[Patio]

Jack, I know how you feel!

Live aboard, I am still learning and this was one of the few times I have turned Delrin. I have never turned nylon, so I have nothing to add. And the beauty of this board is that other do have knowledge and something to add, so I defer to them.

Thanks Bill, for the info on the machinability of some nonmetallic materials.


Today I got a little time in the shop, I was the janitor. Drained my parts washer today. Pumped out would be more true on the method. The drain for the tank is about half way back and a little to one end underneath. There is also a shelf under the tank, which I use for my lathe chucks and accessories, making it difficult to "drain". I have a cheapo, hand operated transfer pump, that works well enough, and is what I used today. Once the tank was empty, I took advantage and installed a proper drain valve. Now I can drain easily into a bucket. While at it, I made a proper drain for my upright air compressor. No more getting on my knees with my face on the floor to open the valve.

Parts washer.

Air Compressor.

The compressor drain soon will get a shorter nipple and a new ball valve, for better protection and ease of use.

[liveaboard]

Thanks for sharing your wisdom guys.
Yes, I know how sunlight will kill most everything organic. I lived in India for many years.
I mostly keep the tractor under cover, so I think the Delrin would be a good material for this, and some other similar jobs that are primarily decorative.
I'll have to order it from the UK, so it will be a while before I get it.

[warmstrong1955]

.....unless you like muckel-dee-dung green.

Is that on the Ralph Lauren or the Martha Stewart color chart?

Martha Stewart of course....from her 'Early American Bad Taste' Collection.



Attached is one of the things I made from the leftovers of the Muckel-dee-dung Oil-filled cast Nylon 6, since I can't find any other pics of the stuff.....there ya go.
It is pleasant to machine.
You make the call on the color!
I wouldn't want to make a gear shift knob for my Jeep out of the stuff......

Bill