12" working railroad
Moderators: Glenn Brooks, Harold_V
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Topics may include: antique park gauge train restoration, preservation, and history; building new grand scale equipment from scratch; large scale miniature railway construction, maintenance, and safe operation; fallen flags; track, gauge, and equipment standards; grand scale vendor offerings; and, compiling an on-line motive power roster.
Topics may include: antique park gauge train restoration, preservation, and history; building new grand scale equipment from scratch; large scale miniature railway construction, maintenance, and safe operation; fallen flags; track, gauge, and equipment standards; grand scale vendor offerings; and, compiling an on-line motive power roster.
Re: 12" working railroad
Just need to tap the holes in the ends of the tanks and bottom(condensate drains) 1/8 NPT and this fabrication is finally done.
Re: 12" working railroad
I got the angles finished (I don't know what they are called), with some detail and mounted them.
Re: 12" working railroad
Footboards?
~RN
~RN
Re: 12" working railroad
Yeah I guess so. I did my own thing here compared to a fabricated/bolted frame S12. The bolted seam is usually further up the pilot, but would have required a large lap seam or to have the lower steps bolt onto this part of the pilot. This way I can remove the angles and repair and repaint them, or replace them entirely if I find a way to make 1/6th scale grating
Re: 12" working railroad
The wheels aren't going to turn themselves, so I figured it was time to get started on them.
The laser cut wheel blanks are pretty accurate, I was able to chuck them up on the outside and just finish ream the last .015" out of the hole with a .998" reamer with no noticeable wobble. These are the 6-5/8" diameter blanks for my riding car.
Then I grabbed a chunk of 3" round stock from the rem shelf to use for my hub for turning wheels. This lathe is a beast, I took ~3/16" depths of cut whittling that end down closer to 1" and then drilled and power tapped the hole 5/8" NC.
Next it will go in the mill for a drive dog bolt hole, and then when I am ready to turn the wheels I will turn the hub to the final diameter and not remove it from the chuck so everything spins true.
The laser cut wheel blanks are pretty accurate, I was able to chuck them up on the outside and just finish ream the last .015" out of the hole with a .998" reamer with no noticeable wobble. These are the 6-5/8" diameter blanks for my riding car.
Then I grabbed a chunk of 3" round stock from the rem shelf to use for my hub for turning wheels. This lathe is a beast, I took ~3/16" depths of cut whittling that end down closer to 1" and then drilled and power tapped the hole 5/8" NC.
Next it will go in the mill for a drive dog bolt hole, and then when I am ready to turn the wheels I will turn the hub to the final diameter and not remove it from the chuck so everything spins true.
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- Posts: 2930
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
- Location: Woodinville, Washington
Re: 12" working railroad
Nice set up. If the rest of us were so fortunate!
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Re: 12" working railroad
It's not mine obviously, perks of my workplace
Re: 12" working railroad
I made a fixture from a bolt and a scrap of flat stock for drilling a drive bolt hole in my wheels so they don't spin on the hub.
Re: 12" working railroad
I turned 8 wheels tonight for the riding car. Not completely though, I will press them onto the axles and then turn the tapers after that.
Pics coming if they ever send to my email....
Pics coming if they ever send to my email....
Re: 12" working railroad
Here are some pictures. Loving the power on this lathe. 1 cut for the 6-1/2" overall diameter, 2 roughing passes and one finish pass for the 6" wheel surface. Less than 10 minutes each once I get all the dials setup.
Next step I'm going to turn the recess in the face of each wheel, then press them on the axles.
Next step I'm going to turn the recess in the face of each wheel, then press them on the axles.
Re: 12" working railroad
The flanges and gaskets got cut for the muffler, I welded the flange on and this is finally done!
I chucked the hub up in the lathe again and turned the faces of all my wheels so they have a little bit of recess just for looks.
Surprisingly the hub only had about .001" total run-out when chucked back up in the 3-jaw, so I put some marks on both of them to align the right jaw with the hub next time.
Included a picture of the lathe I have access to, a big thanks to my workplace for being able to use this monster.
I chucked the hub up in the lathe again and turned the faces of all my wheels so they have a little bit of recess just for looks.
Surprisingly the hub only had about .001" total run-out when chucked back up in the 3-jaw, so I put some marks on both of them to align the right jaw with the hub next time.
Included a picture of the lathe I have access to, a big thanks to my workplace for being able to use this monster.
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- Posts: 2930
- Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
- Location: Woodinville, Washington
Re: 12" working railroad
That’s a big boy, right enuf! Gives new meaning to hobby shop work...
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....