Woodinville Shops

Discuss park gauge trains and large scale miniature railways having track gauges from 8" to 24" gauge and designed at scales of 2" to the foot or greater - whether modeled for personal use, or purpose built for amusement park operation or private railroading.

Moderators: Glenn Brooks, Harold_V

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Topics may include: antique park gauge train restoration, preservation, and history; building new grand scale equipment from scratch; large scale miniature railway construction, maintenance, and safe operation; fallen flags; track, gauge, and equipment standards; grand scale vendor offerings; and, compiling an on-line motive power roster.
Glenn Brooks
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Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks »

Kimball McGinley wrote: Thu May 09, 2019 2:15 pm Can anybody say "Trussrods" ????
Yep, Planning on truss rods for my forthcoming 1890’s wood frame flat car and parlor car. Alas, this is a welded steel drop flat design. Not suitable for truss rods unfortunately - not enuf clearance underneath the drop center.
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
rkcarguy
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Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:33 am
Location: Wa State

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by rkcarguy »

I think the only way to counter that is to use super beefy members or just build some "crown" into the car so it compresses flat when loaded.

How does your steamer do pulling that weight around as far as power and traction?
Glenn Brooks
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Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks »

Ryan, pulls it just fine! Actually, I haven’t yet discovered the upper limit for tractive effort. The weight of the loco on drivers is the big limiting factor. All These miniature locos are super light weight and slippery compared to the full sized beasts they model. The Ottaways routinely pulled 4 to 6 fully loaded passenger cars around amusement parks in their day. So far, I have only pulled 2 cars behind the engine. Latter in the summer, hopefully I can get the other 2-3 cars built. Then will be interesting to see what it will do...

Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Glenn Brooks
Posts: 2930
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks »

Started welding up the 8’ flat car today. Hope this will be a quick build as I want to get on to laying out a possible Bucryus crane build. Bob’s set of 150t crane erection drawings arrived in the mail today - the real McCoy, originally from the Bucryus crane factory floor. Looks like It will be possible to build directly off this plan set- and I can scale them to 3” and go down to the local print shop and have them printed off the CD.

I plan to make this flat car up as a MOW flat, with wood frame side boards on one end, and a crew compartment on the far end - camouflaging as a one or two seat riding car. Then, if I can get the crane to materialize, can use the flat as a support car for the boom.

Similar to this 7 1/2” MOW consist out at KLS.
8B411539-E0EF-491C-A1B3-EB39A17699CA.jpeg
148A198B-A720-4438-87E8-D78BDC3587F8.jpeg

First steps today, weld up the frame, attach end caps to add a bit of rigidity to the corners, and cover the open box end of the 1x3” rectangular tubing.
BB235387-45BB-426B-A4E5-14FAB275A08F.jpeg
340BB510-B8F0-4A9A-8591-2D54A629B7C9.jpeg
Hmm, definitely not a prototype steel body construction method. But it’s an experiment in lieu of internal corner bracing. Maybe I’ll weld a big end sill on both ends to cover up these corner braces, once it’s time to add the draft gear and couplers.

Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
rkcarguy
Posts: 1730
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:33 am
Location: Wa State

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by rkcarguy »

Glenn, I thought you got a new shop and a bunch more rolling stock there for a minute!
Good to see back in production. I'm using 1/2" laser cut plate sills that are one piece with the coupler pocket and all, it would be easy enough to use an overlay on the end in thinner plate if you wanted to.
That crane is going to be a huge project, looking forward to seeing it.
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NP317
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Location: Northern Oregon, USA

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by NP317 »

Glenn:
You are an ambitious soul.
And a prodigious builder, too!
Don't stop.
RussN
Glenn Brooks
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Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks »

Thanks guys. Building is the fun part of the hobby for me. yes, discovered the rolling stock stored in the KLS car barn a few weeks ago. I’ve been looking for a ‘theme’ for the RR, and finally settled on building a Maintenance Of Way work train - which leads naturally to a working crane or Derrick. These are perfect... Had to give up on the circus train idea. Decided we had no way to keep a bunch of miniature goats, pigs and peacocks while on our winter travels. To bad, actually.

Ryan, I thought about making up the end sills as you describe. But I wanted a short 8’ MOW car, so cutting the stock down left me with these longish 24” rems. (At 3” scale, the car represents a very short 24’ flat.) So decided to use it all up and make the rems the end sills. Haha, probably will end up making proper sill plates anyway. Of well, the path to enlightenment haft many turns, as they say.

Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Glenn Brooks
Posts: 2930
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks »

4 1/2 hours of planning and fitting to do 120 seconds of welding. Today I was able to tack the center sills into place in the frame. However, took a lot or research and scaling to figure out the logic behind placement. Ended up laying out the bolster and center pivot bearings, including some trial and error machining of the center pivot on the big lathe. I decided to replicate original construction methods and car design to the extent possible. So the center pivot bearing will be a cup and pin arrangement, 3” OD on the car frame bolster, sitting over a 2” OD pivot point welded to the truck bolster. Held together with a 7/8” hardened shaft with a nut on the lower end, thru and thru, to hold the whole thing together. The trucks will turn on the shaft, but ride on the relatively wide pivot bearing. Secondary bearings on the outer edge will give lateral support, per original design. Should be plenty strong and stable.
Attachments
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Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Glenn Brooks
Posts: 2930
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks »

Main accomplishment today was catching my shirt on fire. The one I was wearing whilst cutting a bunch of draft gear parts for the flat car and crane, on my welding bench, out of some 1/4” x 6” flat bar- with my (newish) plasma cutter. Sure makes a lot of sparks and molten slag. No pictures. Unfortunately, I was to busy swating out the flames.

Looking back, I got pretty engrossed in cutting out a bunch of coupler pocket pieces for welding into four sets of draft gear for the flat car and hopefully-soon-to-materialize Bucryus wrecking crane. Lots of sparks and slag fly out the bottom of the work, as the plasma cutter relies on compressed air and superheated arc to clear the molten metal. Towards the end, I thought, that’s strange, it’s getting pretty hot in here, around my waist. So stopped to see what was going on and noticed the bottom left side of my dandy pin striped RR work shirt bursting forth in these long, yellowish, twisty elegant, shoots of flame. Toasting my tummy, so to speak.

So as I beat out the flames and stomped on the burning bits of shirt that had fallen on the floor, turned around and looked up to see a white terry cloth work rag and one of those mechanics red rags, in two different spots, were having their own separate little bon Fires. My instant thought was “Holly Smokes, this is ridiculous. Looks like one of those Hollywood disaster movies!” Then, secondly, “No more of this!”

A moment latter, no more flames, and thankfully, after the embers went dark and the smoke stopped arising, All was well. Although my work shirt does need some repair... and my white shop towel has an odd looking hole burned through the middle.

Yah, yah, I know: time for the safety beating. Er, debriefing... :cry:

(BTW, my shop is super fire proofed- extinguishers all over, no flammables anywhere near my cutting/grinding/welding station, fireproof wall board on the wall, and no secondary ignition sources - except my poor shirt and stupid shop rags..so I was surprised, but not to worried about things getting out of control. Nevertheless, no stupid rags anymore, and wear the damn leather jacket. Regardless of the outside temps).

Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Pontiacguy1
Posts: 1566
Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 10:15 am
Location: Tennessee, USA

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Pontiacguy1 »

Go get yourself a welder's jacket... They can be purchased pretty cheaply, usually about $15-20 or so at most welding supply places, and are FR rated. I've had a similar experience with an old pair of blue jeans. They had a small hole in them, and the frayed part caught on fire pretty quickly whilst welding one time. I suddenly realized that it was getting really warm, then I realized my pants leg was on fire. Couple of swats and it was out.
rkcarguy
Posts: 1730
Joined: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:33 am
Location: Wa State

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by rkcarguy »

Haha we've all been there. I was welding a flange onto a piece of pipe that was clamped in the vice, and the pipe had a lot of that grease on it and inside it to keep it from rusting. Well the grease caught fire and was making this "pilot light" out the open end of the pipe, which I was bending over while doing the weld and didn't notice. The shop was really cold and I had on overalls over sweat pants and a hoodie. All the sudden I'm getting hot and I notice it's awful bright in the shop and I flip my helmet up and my right side is fully involved from mid thigh to the armpit! I shed the overalls quick and only suffered a partially burned crispy spot on the thigh of the sweat pants. Sounds like you have a weld jacket, they are hot but it's better than catching yourself on fire.
Glenn Brooks
Posts: 2930
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks »

Yes, pretty amazing how hard it is to extinguish thick cotton clothing material. The hem on my pin strip work shirt was doubled over. The embers inside the hem wouldn’t go out. Keep burning like old dynamite fuse. Certainly an attention getter.
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
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