90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
how did you cure the paint on the smokebox? I would love to have something that looks that good. Thanks, Bob
Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
No cure is required. That Duple-Color paint is
"Engine enamel with ceramic, good up to 500 degrees F."
First fire up seemed to provide any needed cure.
The paint has been stable and hard ever since.
Easy.
I also used it to paint the rest of the boiler.
~RN
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Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
NP317,
Seems to be a proper choice! Using this sort of DupliColor silikcon based spray paint for my first painting job, too.
Burning the smaller parts inside a pizza oven after being spray painted worked out fine.
Proper cleaning by means of acetone as last finish is necessary of course!
Asteamhead
Seems to be a proper choice! Using this sort of DupliColor silikcon based spray paint for my first painting job, too.
Burning the smaller parts inside a pizza oven after being spray painted worked out fine.
Proper cleaning by means of acetone as last finish is necessary of course!
Asteamhead
Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
Finally, as the cold weather sets in, it's time to continue some building info.
This time: The cab windows.
After making the cab walls from drawings, I sketched up the glass windows for the cab.
To make the windows I cut double-strength window glass to the required dimensions for all 12 window panes in the cab.
I cleaned them and applied adhesive-backed copper tape used for making stained-glass lamps & windows.
The edge foil pieces were carefully pressed onto the glass using a pointed wood tool. Then the tape was applied where the inner frame pieces would be.
After a very careful painting of the copper foil and the windows were ready to be installed in the cab openings.
Pics below of a finished windows in the unfinished cab side.
Note that the forward most window sits flush in the opening. Only the rear-two windows slide open/closed.
Unhappily I seem to have lost the photos I took of the foiling process on the glass panes. Sorry.
RussN
This time: The cab windows.
After making the cab walls from drawings, I sketched up the glass windows for the cab.
To make the windows I cut double-strength window glass to the required dimensions for all 12 window panes in the cab.
I cleaned them and applied adhesive-backed copper tape used for making stained-glass lamps & windows.
The edge foil pieces were carefully pressed onto the glass using a pointed wood tool. Then the tape was applied where the inner frame pieces would be.
After a very careful painting of the copper foil and the windows were ready to be installed in the cab openings.
Pics below of a finished windows in the unfinished cab side.
Note that the forward most window sits flush in the opening. Only the rear-two windows slide open/closed.
Unhappily I seem to have lost the photos I took of the foiling process on the glass panes. Sorry.
RussN
Last edited by NP317 on Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:19 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
Next I had to design and build the brass window slides.
They appear in the previous photos both as individual pieces and temporarily assembled onto the cab side.
To replicate prototypical sliding of the side windows, I machined the shorter tapered filler piece that makes the slide wider toward the front of the cab.
This allows the windows to slide next to each other providing entirely clear side windows for the crew. This also facilitates operating the locomotive through the windows. This is necessary to reach the throttle and Johnson Bar.
Below shows the sets of the individual slide pieces: Then how they fit the cab and windows: RussN
They appear in the previous photos both as individual pieces and temporarily assembled onto the cab side.
To replicate prototypical sliding of the side windows, I machined the shorter tapered filler piece that makes the slide wider toward the front of the cab.
This allows the windows to slide next to each other providing entirely clear side windows for the crew. This also facilitates operating the locomotive through the windows. This is necessary to reach the throttle and Johnson Bar.
Below shows the sets of the individual slide pieces: Then how they fit the cab and windows: RussN
Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
Final details:
The top slides are deeper than the lower slides allowing windows to be placed and removed by lifting them up over the lower slide channels.
They work as planned, so far.
Finally, after finishing the cab, including painting, you can see the finished windows and how they work.
Four attached photos.
I hope this provides some ideas on how to make realistic appearing and functioning cab windows
RussN!
The top slides are deeper than the lower slides allowing windows to be placed and removed by lifting them up over the lower slide channels.
They work as planned, so far.
Finally, after finishing the cab, including painting, you can see the finished windows and how they work.
Four attached photos.
I hope this provides some ideas on how to make realistic appearing and functioning cab windows
RussN!
Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
I finally found the "missing" photos showing how I made the glass cab windows.
So here goes a quick description followed by the pics:
I cut the glass blanks to size for all the cab windows.
Next I used self-adhesive copper tape (used for making "copper-foiled" stained glass windows/lamps, etc.) to create the window frames. First the glass was cleaned with alcohol to remove all oils.
Then copper tape was carefully positioned into place on the glass, folding it around the edges and pressing it onto the glass.
Paint was applied as a last step. I used my old stained glass making tools for this: you can see the plastic block tool for pressing the tape into position. It works.
The final results can be seen in previous pictures in this blog.
RussN
So here goes a quick description followed by the pics:
I cut the glass blanks to size for all the cab windows.
Next I used self-adhesive copper tape (used for making "copper-foiled" stained glass windows/lamps, etc.) to create the window frames. First the glass was cleaned with alcohol to remove all oils.
Then copper tape was carefully positioned into place on the glass, folding it around the edges and pressing it onto the glass.
Paint was applied as a last step. I used my old stained glass making tools for this: you can see the plastic block tool for pressing the tape into position. It works.
The final results can be seen in previous pictures in this blog.
RussN
Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
Time for some more pics.
I fabricated the 12-piece cab roof, installed, removed, and painted. The main center panel is removable to access the cab controls during steaming. The far forward center section also lifts out to access 3 valves that are mostly used (seldom) during hydro testing.
The two outer panels are decreasing radii curves, complicating fabrication. I ended up using my 12-ton hydraulic press with forms made from C-channel steel and solid steel rods of different diameters. Each panel took about 4 hours to nudge into shape. Tedious but the result is good. Lots of walking back and forth...
RussN
I fabricated the 12-piece cab roof, installed, removed, and painted. The main center panel is removable to access the cab controls during steaming. The far forward center section also lifts out to access 3 valves that are mostly used (seldom) during hydro testing.
The two outer panels are decreasing radii curves, complicating fabrication. I ended up using my 12-ton hydraulic press with forms made from C-channel steel and solid steel rods of different diameters. Each panel took about 4 hours to nudge into shape. Tedious but the result is good. Lots of walking back and forth...
RussN
Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
Then I made the electrical lighting system, using white LEDs with a focus center.
As I did on my Ten Wheeler, 4 LEDs are mounted on the aft cab wall top, and aimed to spot each gauge. A 5th LED is mounted in a sliced brass tube (painted white inside), illuminating the water glass.
Finally, I installed external LEDs lighting the running gear: two per side, located in the same spots as on the prototype #90. I sanded the exteriors of each LED to defuse the light better, simulating the bare bulbs that were commonly used on logging locos. A touch of yellow stain will alter the white light toward incandescent yellow. (Not yet done) The external lights are fed wiring through 3/16" diameter brass tubing, with 90 degree plumbing fittings where needed. Works nicely at simulating the original electrical conduit..
Two switches (cab/running lights, and head/backup lights) are mounted also on the aft cab wall, easily accessible during steaming.
The pic shows the lights in the dark. Hard to see, but you get the idea.
The headlights are from Mercer kits of the Sunbeam lights. Incredibly detailed with correct yellow headlight. The dark photo washed out the number boards with the correct "90".
Fun stuff.
Now I am working on the fake riveted oil bunker for the tender. It will act as storage for tools, igniters, battery, and whatever. Maybe even lunch...
To be done.
RussN
As I did on my Ten Wheeler, 4 LEDs are mounted on the aft cab wall top, and aimed to spot each gauge. A 5th LED is mounted in a sliced brass tube (painted white inside), illuminating the water glass.
Finally, I installed external LEDs lighting the running gear: two per side, located in the same spots as on the prototype #90. I sanded the exteriors of each LED to defuse the light better, simulating the bare bulbs that were commonly used on logging locos. A touch of yellow stain will alter the white light toward incandescent yellow. (Not yet done) The external lights are fed wiring through 3/16" diameter brass tubing, with 90 degree plumbing fittings where needed. Works nicely at simulating the original electrical conduit..
Two switches (cab/running lights, and head/backup lights) are mounted also on the aft cab wall, easily accessible during steaming.
The pic shows the lights in the dark. Hard to see, but you get the idea.
The headlights are from Mercer kits of the Sunbeam lights. Incredibly detailed with correct yellow headlight. The dark photo washed out the number boards with the correct "90".
Fun stuff.
Now I am working on the fake riveted oil bunker for the tender. It will act as storage for tools, igniters, battery, and whatever. Maybe even lunch...
To be done.
RussN
Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
And the last cab detail was to install the new pressure gauge offered by:
https://www.modelgauge.com
A perfect functional detail for my Mike.
RussN
https://www.modelgauge.com
A perfect functional detail for my Mike.
RussN
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Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
Hi Russ,
Enjoyed following your work thus far. What do figure is the minimum turning radius for your Mike, once operational?
Glenn
Enjoyed following your work thus far. What do figure is the minimum turning radius for your Mike, once operational?
Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge
Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....
Re: 90-Ton 2-8-2 Build, 1.5"/ft. Scale, 7.5" Gauge
Glenn:
I've estimated 40 foot radius curves minimum, based on wheel base and the built-in lateral motion of the 1st and 4th drive axles.
I also altered the trailing truck for greater lateral motion. I'll know more after running a second time at the end of May at Train Mt.
The one run I made at Kitsap Live Steamers showed zero problems even in the yard. No derailments.
I don't know what the KLS minimum track radius is.
Time will tell.
It is - after all - a logging locomotive!
Russ
I've estimated 40 foot radius curves minimum, based on wheel base and the built-in lateral motion of the 1st and 4th drive axles.
I also altered the trailing truck for greater lateral motion. I'll know more after running a second time at the end of May at Train Mt.
The one run I made at Kitsap Live Steamers showed zero problems even in the yard. No derailments.
I don't know what the KLS minimum track radius is.
Time will tell.
It is - after all - a logging locomotive!
Russ