3/4" Scale J1e
Moderator: Harold_V
- JBodenmann
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- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Now for the fun part, back to the lathe and the body is tapered to 30 degrees. This is when our little silver soldered assembly starts to look like what it's supposed to look like. I didn't get a very good photo of this. I took several shots but for some reason most were out of focus. Then we have the turned part. And lastly, our parts after a zoom in the blast cabinet with some very fine black diamond abrasive. It's really something how the bead blasting improves the appearance. The 7/16" brass balls will be for the ball joint part. Tomorrow I will work on the other ends of our little parts. Two are very simple. One is straight, the other has a 90 degree bend. Then there are the two long arms that connect directly to the cylinder head of the booster engine. These are the most complicated parts of the steam lines. Fun little parts to make. Not near as involved as the booster engine.
See Ya' Later Alligator.
Jack
See Ya' Later Alligator.
Jack
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Very cool - I might of missed a detail in this 63 page thread. Are the lost wax moids cut into the wood or just support around a RTV core?
- JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
The wood boxes are only to support the gloves, or silicone. This process allows very accurate waxes to be made, although not as accurate as hard tooling. Simple, quick, and easy. Qualities that I like.
Jack
The wood boxes are only to support the gloves, or silicone. This process allows very accurate waxes to be made, although not as accurate as hard tooling. Simple, quick, and easy. Qualities that I like.
Jack
- JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Just a few tonight. Mainly the retainer rings with their #0-80 T bolts.
Jack
Just a few tonight. Mainly the retainer rings with their #0-80 T bolts.
Jack
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
this is ours. we have two, one on the fireman's side and one on the engineer's side as was on the real one. note we also have a dummy stoker engine under the cab too the fitting off to the right above the hose's is our artificial air supply for firing up in the morning.
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Jack,
Incredible work on the dummy booster. I have wanted to make a dummy booster in 1.5 scale for a long time, but the prints with accurate dimensions have eluded me for several reasons out of my control. Lots of line drawings to be found, but the drawings will full dimensions are what is needed or no reason to begin.
How are you making up the 0-80 T bolts used on the booster flex joints?
Robert
Incredible work on the dummy booster. I have wanted to make a dummy booster in 1.5 scale for a long time, but the prints with accurate dimensions have eluded me for several reasons out of my control. Lots of line drawings to be found, but the drawings will full dimensions are what is needed or no reason to begin.
How are you making up the 0-80 T bolts used on the booster flex joints?
Robert
- JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
The T bolts are made from hex head bolts. The heads are milled.
Jack
The T bolts are made from hex head bolts. The heads are milled.
Jack
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Jack,
It's always fun to watch your progress of fine art!
Asteamhead
It's always fun to watch your progress of fine art!
Asteamhead
- JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Thank you Asteamhead. I always enjoy seeing your fine work also.
Jack
Thank you Asteamhead. I always enjoy seeing your fine work also.
Jack
milling slots for T-bolts
Jack,
That was really clever using a brass bar to offset the part in the 3-jaw for milling the slots for T-bolts. You probably showed us that trick when making the 1.5-inch scale version, but I don't recall. This is another example of how much planning is required for your parts before they are made. They look awesome.
Regards,
Andy
p.s. The collet holder in your lathe is interesting.
That was really clever using a brass bar to offset the part in the 3-jaw for milling the slots for T-bolts. You probably showed us that trick when making the 1.5-inch scale version, but I don't recall. This is another example of how much planning is required for your parts before they are made. They look awesome.
Regards,
Andy
p.s. The collet holder in your lathe is interesting.
- JBodenmann
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Thank you Andy. Making parts can sometimes be a bit like a chess game. You have to think several steps ahead. Not only the operations to be performed, but also the materials and tools. I will often use an end mill cutter to cut a flat bottomed recess. Well this little fellow here has a recess that happens to be 23/64". I knew this so ordered a 23/64" end mill and it was here when I needed it. Another thing when designing parts is to design to use standard sizes when acceptable. I almost exclusively use collets, and have a pretty complete selection of them. Round, hex, square, inside, and soft. I will design with them in mind. Fudging a little one way or the other. And sometimes just buying another odd size. Perfect scale is for builders that never finish anything. Proportion is what's important. Get R' Done and all that. When I look at my stuff I see compromises everywhere The collet closer on the lathe is the old lever operated type. I guess they can't sell these new anymore as the part sticking out the left hand side of the headstock spins around. If you are careless I guess you could get your shirttail caught and go for a tumble. I don't like the new variety. They have a collar on the right end of the headstock that is rotated to tighten the collets. I like being able to just reach over and slam the lever. Faster and more positive. So often tools are designed, or legislated by nincompoops that have never used one. They are so safe as to be practically useless. I have two disc sanders like that. I had to take the disc grinder to the idiotic shields to make them usable. I could go on and on, but I have already gone on enough .
See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
Thank you Andy. Making parts can sometimes be a bit like a chess game. You have to think several steps ahead. Not only the operations to be performed, but also the materials and tools. I will often use an end mill cutter to cut a flat bottomed recess. Well this little fellow here has a recess that happens to be 23/64". I knew this so ordered a 23/64" end mill and it was here when I needed it. Another thing when designing parts is to design to use standard sizes when acceptable. I almost exclusively use collets, and have a pretty complete selection of them. Round, hex, square, inside, and soft. I will design with them in mind. Fudging a little one way or the other. And sometimes just buying another odd size. Perfect scale is for builders that never finish anything. Proportion is what's important. Get R' Done and all that. When I look at my stuff I see compromises everywhere The collet closer on the lathe is the old lever operated type. I guess they can't sell these new anymore as the part sticking out the left hand side of the headstock spins around. If you are careless I guess you could get your shirttail caught and go for a tumble. I don't like the new variety. They have a collar on the right end of the headstock that is rotated to tighten the collets. I like being able to just reach over and slam the lever. Faster and more positive. So often tools are designed, or legislated by nincompoops that have never used one. They are so safe as to be practically useless. I have two disc sanders like that. I had to take the disc grinder to the idiotic shields to make them usable. I could go on and on, but I have already gone on enough .
See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
Last edited by JBodenmann on Thu Jan 06, 2022 12:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
If you make something foolproof, only a fool will want to use it.JBodenmann wrote: ↑Wed Jan 05, 2022 11:08 pm So often tools are designed, or legislated by nincompoops that have never used one. They are so safe as to be practically useless.
Steve