Silver soldering torches
Re: Silver soldering torches
Sieverts website is overwhelming in product variety to the point I'm not 100% sure what to focus on, they don't offer online purchasing and most of the ecom sites like amazon have a very limited listing of their products. Kinda odd.
- Bill Shields
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Re: Silver soldering torches
I get their stuff from another supplier.
you need a handle - either a single knob or a dual knob with a trigger.
you need a hose and regulator. the regulator needs to handle the throughput of the biggest head you purchase..
this gets you started since it is the largest head.
https://www.ebay.ie/itm/192308154284?ha ... SwgiRZvP1h
then a turbo tip....
you need a handle - either a single knob or a dual knob with a trigger.
you need a hose and regulator. the regulator needs to handle the throughput of the biggest head you purchase..
this gets you started since it is the largest head.
https://www.ebay.ie/itm/192308154284?ha ... SwgiRZvP1h
then a turbo tip....
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
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Re: Silver soldering torches
Hello, you need to download the Sievert Combination Chart in the Downloads section. They have updated it and I prefer the old design they had.
https://sievert.se/wp-content/uploads/2 ... rt_ENG.pdf
You might want to look at their Global catalog
https://sievert.se/wp-content/uploads/2 ... rt_ENG.pdf
You might want to look at their Global catalog
Re: Silver soldering torches
Ok Bill, you convinced me, I bought one!
Jim B
Jim B
Re: Silver soldering torches
I know me too! absolutely going to look through the ebay listings and buy one!
which did you get jim?
which did you get jim?
Re: Silver soldering torches
I got the one that Bill had a link to. I downloaded the catalog, but I am going to have to study it before ordering.
Jim B
Jim B
Re: Silver soldering torches
Hi
I have purchased directly from Sievert at their US headquarters:
Sievert Industries a Div. of Rothenberger
7130 Clinton Rd,
Loves Park, IL 61111
Tel: 1-800-545-7698
Fax: 1- 815-633-0879
E-Mail: info@sievertindustries.com
They answered questions for me. Not sure you save anything by buying direct. I live about an hour away so have gone and picked up what I needed. Here is my setup. I also use a O/A Smith Little Torch. Also pic of crank case project with 19 pieces silver brazed using the Sievert. I have found that these provide a good range heat levels.
Bob
It is about 5" long:
I have purchased directly from Sievert at their US headquarters:
Sievert Industries a Div. of Rothenberger
7130 Clinton Rd,
Loves Park, IL 61111
Tel: 1-800-545-7698
Fax: 1- 815-633-0879
E-Mail: info@sievertindustries.com
They answered questions for me. Not sure you save anything by buying direct. I live about an hour away so have gone and picked up what I needed. Here is my setup. I also use a O/A Smith Little Torch. Also pic of crank case project with 19 pieces silver brazed using the Sievert. I have found that these provide a good range heat levels.
Bob
It is about 5" long:
- Bill Shields
- Posts: 9116
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
- Location: 39.367, -75.765
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Re: Silver soldering torches
Looks like we rummaged through each other's torch buckets
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Silver soldering torches
Hi,
When Don & I were silver soldering the Big Boy boiler, what we found that worked best were a number of things.
First, copper sucks the heat away very quickly, so you wind up heating the entire boiler. To show the difference, if you hold a 18" long copper rod and put one end in the flame, the end you hold will get hot very quickly so you can't hold onto it. On the other hand, if you replace the copper rod with a shorter 12" long stainless rod, the end you hold onto may get warm, but you can still hold it comfortably.
Next, for large objects, it helps a lot if you have a supply of insulating brick, not firebrick. Use the bricks to build an oven with one layer on the bottom and side courses to hold the heat in. If possible, only leave space for the areas you need to access for silver soldering.
We found that one "weed burner" propane torch combined with a small to medium sized oxy-acetylene torch worked best. You use the weed burner for general heating as well as heating the area you want to silver solder and then use just the wash from the oxy-acetylene torch to control the silver solder melt. Make sure you don't try to rush things but let the job proceed at its own speed. Always keep the flame from both torches moving.
The technique involves using the wash from the large torch to "protect" the area you want to solder because there isn't any oxygen in the torch wash and go into the protected area with just the wash from the oxy tip with the oxy-acetylene torch set to a slightly reducing flame (a bright "feather") which isn't too long (an inch or two). The oxy-acetylene flame itself is way too hot for silver soldering and if you use the full torch flame on the work, you won't be able to control the job (things will happen too fast) and you also probably won't get the penetration you need. You need the extra heat and higher temperature of the oxy-acetylene flame because propane isn't really quite hot enough for larger jobs. Finally, I agree the black flux is much better. It is almost impossible to burn it.
Hope this helps.
Richard Trounce.
When Don & I were silver soldering the Big Boy boiler, what we found that worked best were a number of things.
First, copper sucks the heat away very quickly, so you wind up heating the entire boiler. To show the difference, if you hold a 18" long copper rod and put one end in the flame, the end you hold will get hot very quickly so you can't hold onto it. On the other hand, if you replace the copper rod with a shorter 12" long stainless rod, the end you hold onto may get warm, but you can still hold it comfortably.
Next, for large objects, it helps a lot if you have a supply of insulating brick, not firebrick. Use the bricks to build an oven with one layer on the bottom and side courses to hold the heat in. If possible, only leave space for the areas you need to access for silver soldering.
We found that one "weed burner" propane torch combined with a small to medium sized oxy-acetylene torch worked best. You use the weed burner for general heating as well as heating the area you want to silver solder and then use just the wash from the oxy-acetylene torch to control the silver solder melt. Make sure you don't try to rush things but let the job proceed at its own speed. Always keep the flame from both torches moving.
The technique involves using the wash from the large torch to "protect" the area you want to solder because there isn't any oxygen in the torch wash and go into the protected area with just the wash from the oxy tip with the oxy-acetylene torch set to a slightly reducing flame (a bright "feather") which isn't too long (an inch or two). The oxy-acetylene flame itself is way too hot for silver soldering and if you use the full torch flame on the work, you won't be able to control the job (things will happen too fast) and you also probably won't get the penetration you need. You need the extra heat and higher temperature of the oxy-acetylene flame because propane isn't really quite hot enough for larger jobs. Finally, I agree the black flux is much better. It is almost impossible to burn it.
Hope this helps.
Richard Trounce.
Re: Silver soldering torches
One thing that may or may not be of interest. Acetylene costs have gone through the ceiling. A large cylinder can cost $100 to refill (while a large oxygen bottle costs only about $20).
I've turned to heating with propane and oxygen, using my oxy/acetylene torch, tips and regulators. Key to success here is the use of oxygen along with the propane, needless to say. The flame isn't nearly as stable, but the cost of operation is cut by about 90% and yields adequate heat. I do all my silver soldering that way and heat large items successfully with a rosebud tip.
If one has the luxury of natural gas, it, too, can be used with a torch. When I refined precious metals I did all of my small volume melting with a natural gas torch (with oxygen), including melting platinum and palladium. To be clear, it was challenging to melt platinum, but one is highly unlikely to have need for the required temperature (3,215°F) for typical shop use.
At one time there was a natural gas/oxygen torch available through jewelry supply stores, one that came fitted with a rosebud type tip. I do not know if it is still on the market. Smaller single orifice torches are readily available with a variety of tip sizes.
It should be noted that the use of propane in lieu of acetylene for welding is not acceptable.
H
I've turned to heating with propane and oxygen, using my oxy/acetylene torch, tips and regulators. Key to success here is the use of oxygen along with the propane, needless to say. The flame isn't nearly as stable, but the cost of operation is cut by about 90% and yields adequate heat. I do all my silver soldering that way and heat large items successfully with a rosebud tip.
If one has the luxury of natural gas, it, too, can be used with a torch. When I refined precious metals I did all of my small volume melting with a natural gas torch (with oxygen), including melting platinum and palladium. To be clear, it was challenging to melt platinum, but one is highly unlikely to have need for the required temperature (3,215°F) for typical shop use.
At one time there was a natural gas/oxygen torch available through jewelry supply stores, one that came fitted with a rosebud type tip. I do not know if it is still on the market. Smaller single orifice torches are readily available with a variety of tip sizes.
It should be noted that the use of propane in lieu of acetylene for welding is not acceptable.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.
- Bill Shields
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- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
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Re: Silver soldering torches
Yes to both of your ideas, only I WISH I could get an acetylene cylinder for only $100.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Silver soldering torches
That's what I paid the last time I filled my bottle. That was probably three years ago, and it might be longer. I was building my jib crane when that occurred. I have since used acetylene only when absolutely necessary, so the bottle remains near full. Considering the rate of inflation these days, I suspect I understand what you're saying. I most likely would not be pleased with the present cost. Hadn't thought about that, but it lends credence to my decision to use propane for heating.Bill Shields wrote: ↑Sat Feb 04, 2023 7:34 am Yes to both of your ideas, only I WISH I could get an acetylene cylinder for only $100.
I haven't torch welded for many years, as I also have TIG capabilities. No real need for acetylene aside from blackening molds for pouring gold.
H
Wise people talk because they have something to say. Fools talk because they have to say something.