Sheet steel tender tank sealant
- Bill Shields
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Re: Sheet steel tender tank sealant
One of the concerns with a small tender is that inside the water space, the hand pump, inlet strainer and piping are all rather crammed in together
The water leg space also generally needs to be actually used...which on a typical 3/4" tender is less than 1" wide to begin with.
By the time you put a liner inside and accommodate the necessary bracketry to hold the lid in, anchor the pump, provide for the strainer and whatnot...it really becomes somewhat of a net negative.
All of this makes the drop in tank, which IS so benficial and inviting in a larger tender, awkward to use in the smaller scales.
The water leg space also generally needs to be actually used...which on a typical 3/4" tender is less than 1" wide to begin with.
By the time you put a liner inside and accommodate the necessary bracketry to hold the lid in, anchor the pump, provide for the strainer and whatnot...it really becomes somewhat of a net negative.
All of this makes the drop in tank, which IS so benficial and inviting in a larger tender, awkward to use in the smaller scales.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
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Re: Sheet steel tender tank sealant
Thanks for the info Bill!
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Re: Sheet steel tender tank sealant
Also, if you are using a drop-in tank, make sure that there are several openings in the bottom for the inevitable spilled water or overflow to get out. In fact, not having a bottom would be great because if water gets trapped between your drop in tank and your tender sides, and it can't get out, then you're worse off than if you had just used the tank itself. Eventually someone will get water in around the sides of your drop in tank. Just make sure it can get out of your tender by gravity.
- Bill Shields
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Re: Sheet steel tender tank sealant
completely agree that soldering is a good way to go...however with my current physical challenges....decided to not risk a lot of brass.
particularly in my current project case where the bottom of the tender is a solid piece of 1/4" thick brass and would require a LOT of heat
i did take a stab at soldering some of the tank side riveted joints, but ended up with the brass stress relieving a bit, and got a bit of a warp -> which I was able to get out
example of a small tender, soldered by someone who really knew how to do it (not me)
it's a tender for a 2-1/2" gauge loco
yes...it is a lifetime job (this tender was soldered in the 1950's -> unless the solder deteriorates (for some reason).
promised a picture, but instead:
Devcon:
Flexane 15350 brushable
FL 10 primer
FL 20 primer
use both primers, exactly as instructed.
particularly in my current project case where the bottom of the tender is a solid piece of 1/4" thick brass and would require a LOT of heat
i did take a stab at soldering some of the tank side riveted joints, but ended up with the brass stress relieving a bit, and got a bit of a warp -> which I was able to get out
example of a small tender, soldered by someone who really knew how to do it (not me)
it's a tender for a 2-1/2" gauge loco
yes...it is a lifetime job (this tender was soldered in the 1950's -> unless the solder deteriorates (for some reason).
promised a picture, but instead:
Devcon:
Flexane 15350 brushable
FL 10 primer
FL 20 primer
use both primers, exactly as instructed.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Sheet steel tender tank sealant
I helped coat a tender with it and it worked pretty well. The next time I try it I will thin the material down a bit as we used the vertical grade and it ended up being fairly thick and gloppy in places.
I have professionally used the product and it works fine installing it over metal. The metal needs to be cleaned of rust and oils and then primed with Gaco 5320 2-part primer before installing the LM60
Re: Sheet steel tender tank sealant
All good info, thanks
Re: Sheet steel tender tank sealant
I’ve heard of people using Loctite 290 wicking adhesive on a riveted tender. The adhesive is applied to the seams from the inside of the tank after assembly, and is drawn into the joints by capillary action. Has anyone tried this? Seems like a viable option for tanks made from brass, stainless or galvanized steel, that are less subject to corrosion.
Dan Watson
Chattanooga, TN
Chattanooga, TN
- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10459
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2007 4:57 am
- Location: 39.367, -75.765
- Contact:
Re: Sheet steel tender tank sealant
It works as long as everything is clean.
Use it, test with water and have a leak...and I have found it tough to go back in and fix.
However In my case, I had some large gaps that required filling.
Use it, test with water and have a leak...and I have found it tough to go back in and fix.
However In my case, I had some large gaps that required filling.
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Sheet steel tender tank sealant
There is another tank sealant product called Creame that works well. I have used on Harly gas tanks multiple times over the years. It comes in a kit with a cleaner, etching and the sealant. The caveat is it may take several kits to do a tender as the large kit is only for a 5 gallon tank.
Re: Sheet steel tender tank sealant
Thank you everyone for the advice, lots of suggestions to consider. Right now the top of list for me would be soldered Galvanneal with sealed edges. Long ago I worked quite a bit with Flexane for prototypes and forming dies, never cheap but very impressive properties.
Denny
Denny
"Measure twice, curse once."