Bill, all I have is Low Sulfur Anthracite.Bill Shields wrote: ↑Sat Mar 18, 2023 8:11 amas for using a coal stove for heat treating -> got any ZERO Sulphur coal?Odyknuck wrote: ↑Sat Mar 11, 2023 9:04 pm So, it occurs to me that I have a coal burning stove to supplement heat in my house. Can this be used as a heat-treating oven for this steel? Also, would I still need the Heat treat compound and how long would I leave the links embedded in the red-hot coals?
parts have to stay heated until they meet the time / spec on the compound.
I generally heat them up on a piece of steel heated underneath by my oxy torch. I then measure part temp with one of these hand held IR temp sensing things. This measurement would be difficult if the part is inside a coal stove...unless it was sitting on a sheet of steel as described above.
when part is up to temp, I drop it into the can of Kasenit, or roll it around in a shallow pan full of the stuff to get the part fully covered and let it sit until cool.
Not rocket science....try it on a few random pieces of whatnot before you go after a finished part.
Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
Moderator: Harold_V
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
Russ, thanks for the ideal of the hinge. I will incorporate one on mine. As you say things do not always scale down when it comes to functionality.
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Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
I would then pass on using coal for that.
Any sulphur might interact with the process
Any sulphur might interact with the process
Too many things going on to bother listing them.
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
The value of experience! ((-;Bill Shields wrote: ↑Sun Mar 19, 2023 5:10 am Ah...I recognized the need during design and included it. [snip]
RussN
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
I have decided to leave heat treating to the pros as my friend who owns the CNC shop uses a heat treat company regularly.Bill Shields wrote: ↑Sun Mar 19, 2023 10:45 am I would then pass on using coal for that.
Any sulphur might interact with the process
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
Russ, I assume the process of getting more movement in the truck started with elongating and adding clearance to the pivot point area then the hinge. If you had to do it over again would you have just done the hinge and left the Pivot point be?
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
Ody:
Both slotting the pivot pin hole and vertically hinging the radius rod are required due to the vertical sliding cylinder under the front deck.
That cylinder prevents fore/aft movement that occurs when the radius rod lowers down. The slightly elongated pivot pin hole allows the resulting vertical radial movement to not bind the pivot pin.
This all results because the scale designed front pony truck actually needs to move further than the design allows.
Out-of-scale crappy track and all.
I am sure there are versions of our Mikados operating just fine without these modifications, but on better track than I encountered.
I hate derailments!
RussN
Both slotting the pivot pin hole and vertically hinging the radius rod are required due to the vertical sliding cylinder under the front deck.
That cylinder prevents fore/aft movement that occurs when the radius rod lowers down. The slightly elongated pivot pin hole allows the resulting vertical radial movement to not bind the pivot pin.
This all results because the scale designed front pony truck actually needs to move further than the design allows.
Out-of-scale crappy track and all.
I am sure there are versions of our Mikados operating just fine without these modifications, but on better track than I encountered.
I hate derailments!
RussN
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
OK, will do. Thanks
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
We are making the Return cranks this weekend and have some questions. How much torque is actually on the return crank? I see the clamping methods are done several ways. Keyway with 1 bolt, 2 bolts with and without a taper pin. Is a keyway or taper pin really necessary? I am leaning towards the 2 bolt clamp down to give me an adjustment. Please advise.
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Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
I would recommend double-clamp and then once you get it set exactly where you want it, mark the end of the crankpin with a line or dot or something to show where it should be aligned. Thus, if you ever have something slip or bend or you somehow get something jammed in your valve gear, the weak point will be that crank and it will slip and relieve the pressure instead of breaking something. Have had that happen to me where one of my valve spools had moved and was hitting on one end. The crank turned and prevented further damage. That's my 2 cents worth, anyway.
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
What Pontiacguy1 said. Sage advice.
Although on my Mikado I made a scale return crank with one clamp and a pin through the shaft.
And if you look carefully you can just see the indexing scratch across the outer surface of the crank and pin.
Something else will break...
RussN
Although on my Mikado I made a scale return crank with one clamp and a pin through the shaft.
And if you look carefully you can just see the indexing scratch across the outer surface of the crank and pin.
Something else will break...
RussN
Re: Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build
The 2 bolt is my preface for reasons mentioned. Russ, it appears I will need to extend the boss on the inside of the crank to add the additional bolt. Do you see any clearance issues doing so?
Russ, it appears an 1/8" needs removed from the right side of the relief.
Russ, it appears an 1/8" needs removed from the right side of the relief.