Woodinville Shops

Discuss park gauge trains and large scale miniature railways having track gauges from 8" to 24" gauge and designed at scales of 2" to the foot or greater - whether modeled for personal use, or purpose built for amusement park operation or private railroading.

Moderators: Glenn Brooks, Harold_V

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Topics may include: antique park gauge train restoration, preservation, and history; building new grand scale equipment from scratch; large scale miniature railway construction, maintenance, and safe operation; fallen flags; track, gauge, and equipment standards; grand scale vendor offerings; and, compiling an on-line motive power roster.
Glenn Brooks
Posts: 2236
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks » Fri Apr 24, 2020 12:43 pm

Inching closer to finishing this one.

Cut, drilled, and welded the side frames together. Then milled the weld out and did it over. I eyeballed the drop distance below the beam, and got it wrong. The lower shaft wouldn’t clear the bottom of the beam!

Aaargh. Some days go better than others.

Anyway, now awaiting some factory made 3/4” nuts to fasten everything together. Then a bit of paint and a bit of hoisting with my 2 ton chain hoist.
Attachments
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Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....

LIALLEGHENY
Posts: 241
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Location: Bohemia, NY

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by LIALLEGHENY » Fri Apr 24, 2020 2:55 pm

Glenn,

Keep a good eye on everything once you get the trolley on the rail and start using it. Being that the I beam is tapered as are the wheels, the weight will try to force the wheels away from the center of the beam. You may have to stiffen up the side plates. I also would advise a thick walled sleeve on the load carrying center bolt that can be tightened against the outer plates to help things from spreading.

Nyle

Glenn Brooks
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Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks » Fri Apr 24, 2020 4:11 pm

Thanks Nile. Good comments. I haven’t used a gantry before, so will watch closely. I did machine the wheels to the same deflection as the web on the I-beam, so they sit pretty much perpendicular to the beam. Also turned that center bolt you mentioned, out of 1 1/16” round stock a-35 I think... with shoulders on both sides, to tighten the side plates against.

Thanks for the heads up, I’ll keep a close eye on how it works.

Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....

Glenn Brooks
Posts: 2236
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks » Sat May 02, 2020 5:09 pm

Last year one of the forum members was interested in some spring photos of ‘Burma Station’, my miniature Sakura railroad garden - sort of a Zen Railway setting. The loading, unloading area is basically on the left side of the rail.

We have early blooming heather in Washington and a few Azaleas have shown up overnight. So here’s a couple of followup pics from last summer’s plantings.
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You know it was a long winter when you take pictures of grass.
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The purple flowering shrub below is Scottish heather. Hoping it does not grow to tall. It fills out laterally as ground cover pretty well, and the flowering stems seem to last well for several months, into the summer.
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Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....

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NP317
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Location: Northern Oregon

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by NP317 » Sat May 02, 2020 9:21 pm

Beautiful!
RussN

Glenn Brooks
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Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks » Mon May 04, 2020 3:46 pm

One more - aerial view. Interesting how much bare earth there is, percentage wise. Seems full and busy from the ground view.
Attachments
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Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....

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NP317
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Location: Northern Oregon

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by NP317 » Mon May 04, 2020 9:27 pm

Glenn:
I appreciate your sense of artistry.
RussN

Glenn Brooks
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Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks » Mon May 04, 2020 9:39 pm

Well, it’s just like a garden Railway, only a little bigger, with smallish plants.
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....

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NP317
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Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by NP317 » Mon May 04, 2020 9:41 pm

Glenn Brooks wrote:
Mon May 04, 2020 9:39 pm
Well, it’s just like a garden Railway, only a little bigger, with smallish plants.
and BIGGER rivets!!
RussN

Glenn Brooks
Posts: 2236
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks » Sun Jun 07, 2020 10:29 pm

Inspected the tender the other day and found the unknown seal coating on the bottom of the tank was flaking off- big time. It looks like some 70 year old marine putty- Marine Tex, maybe. Or whatever tank sealant people used in 1950... Brushed or trowled smooth over the bottom of the tank and bottom seal. Didn’t leak, but the tank was pretty well covered in flash rust. So water is certainly getting under the sealant, and affecting large patches of bare metal. Time to recoat the tank.

Short story, needed to cut open the forward part of the tank to get at the front. Welded in some 1/4 x 1 flat bar and made a removable hatch in one corner. Now there are two hatches on the bottom. Both are secured by Drilling and taping into the flat bar and using machine screws bolt the inspection plates in place with 1/4” pan head screws. I use Dolphinite marine bedding compound to make the seam water tight. This stuff lasted 40 years on some boats I’ve owned. Iam sure it’s a lifetime seal on the tender.
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After chiseling and grinding out all the old coating, discovered the bottom of the tank was badly corroded in many places. Measured pockmarks 80 thou depth is places. Thats around 75% metal loss in some parts of the sheet metal bottom. So it’s been rusting under the filler for a number of years.

Photo below shows corrison on the bottom of the tank, after removing and cleaning.
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Decided to cut out the bottom of the tank and renew.

Fortunately found a nice square of 12 ga sheet metal in my collection of scrounged material. So good to good.
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The plasma cutter makes a nice, straight, and quick cut.
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Looks like it will be a good fit as a replacement bottom piece for the tank.
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I’ll cut an opening in the bottom. Weld in a frame of 1” flat bar to the existing edge of the sheet metal that remains riveted to the sides of the tender. Then drill and tap into the frame to bolt up the replacement piece.

Decided to make it removable for future maintenance and repair. Plus welding sheet metal is a PITA for me...

Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....

rkcarguy
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Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by rkcarguy » Mon Jun 08, 2020 10:50 am

Glenn, are the sides of the tank ok?
It's too bad the pitting is so deep, probably the acidity of the rubberized coating itself used to seal the tank.
Even if you could weld that replacement in, I wouldn't do it anyway. The heat of the seal weld will make the metal get lumpy and do all kinds of weird things and could even pull a twist into your tender. Let me know if you'd like to go "easy mode", with a laser cut frame and cover plate with matching holes:) I would use the frame as a guide, match drill the hole pattern into the tender, then cut the frame in half, plug weld studs into the frame, and then install the halves from the inside so the studs protrude through the outside to secure the cover plate to.

Glenn Brooks
Posts: 2236
Joined: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:39 pm
Location: Woodinville, Washington

Re: Woodinville Shops

Post by Glenn Brooks » Mon Jun 08, 2020 12:47 pm

Thanks Ryan,

The sides and top appear unaffected. They are like new- and have some kind of different coating- looks copper or gold colored, and doesn’t have the thick, hardened putty like substrate. Very good observation about the coating possibly causing the corrosion. Hadn’t thought about that.

What do you think about using Gluvit as a seal sealer inside the tank? It’s used fairly effectively on aluminium boats as a sealer. I have a free quart on hand...

Thanks for the offer on the laser cut frame. Iam pretty confident I can fab up a similar frame with materials on hand. I installed the little front inspection plate using the stud welding technique, and sort of stitch welding the edges of the sheetmetal to the flat bar frame. Worked well so far. If it all goes sideways, I’ll give you a call. (btw, still working on a boiler drawing to send your way.)

Appreciate your comments on welding sheet metal and distortion. I was having second thoughts about the inspection plate method this morning. But now, decided to go ahead and do it that way. That method has always worked for me in the marine world in the past.

Glenn
Moderator - Grand Scale Forum

Motive power : 1902 A.S.Campbell 4-4-0 American - 12 5/8" gauge, 1955 Ottaway 4-4-0 American 12" gauge

Ahaha, Retirement: the good life - drifting endlessly on a Sea of projects....

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