3/4" Scale J1e
Moderator: Harold_V
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hey My Friends
I can assure you, no brass was injured when making blobs and bits. Here is some more brass abuse. Cross compound compressors had two ways of connecting the air piping, to the air cylinder inlets, and the air filters. One was with elbows, unions and a tee. Another was with a manifold that bolted to the compressor. That is what I'll be making. There are some bosses that solder in place on the manifolds, to hold the manifolds to the compressors. Here is a start on the bosses. This is 5/15" round stock. A 1/8" round nose mill is being used to a recess. It will be rotated 180 degrees and another recess cut. Here are some tubes that were made up. The material is 1/8" diameter. The hole is #60, which is the tap drill for #00-90. Here the tubes have been silver soldered in place and the end faced off. Just the right amount of solder was used to get the desired amount of fillet. Here a 1/8" boss has been turned. And now it has been parted off. Two of them will be needed. Here we have the main part of the manifold, and the two bolt flanges. Each flange will be dropped into the 1/8" holes in the manifold, as the flange on the left is shown here. The little bolt flanges will probably be Loctited in place and then shot with some primer to hide the gaps and form a small fillet.
I can assure you, no brass was injured when making blobs and bits. Here is some more brass abuse. Cross compound compressors had two ways of connecting the air piping, to the air cylinder inlets, and the air filters. One was with elbows, unions and a tee. Another was with a manifold that bolted to the compressor. That is what I'll be making. There are some bosses that solder in place on the manifolds, to hold the manifolds to the compressors. Here is a start on the bosses. This is 5/15" round stock. A 1/8" round nose mill is being used to a recess. It will be rotated 180 degrees and another recess cut. Here are some tubes that were made up. The material is 1/8" diameter. The hole is #60, which is the tap drill for #00-90. Here the tubes have been silver soldered in place and the end faced off. Just the right amount of solder was used to get the desired amount of fillet. Here a 1/8" boss has been turned. And now it has been parted off. Two of them will be needed. Here we have the main part of the manifold, and the two bolt flanges. Each flange will be dropped into the 1/8" holes in the manifold, as the flange on the left is shown here. The little bolt flanges will probably be Loctited in place and then shot with some primer to hide the gaps and form a small fillet.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Now here a 3/16" round nose end mill is being used to cut a recess in the main manifold.
See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
Here are all the parts at this point. The two eared flanges, and a tube that will fit in the round bottomed slot.
And here they are loosely assembled. The tube will be soft soldered in place. Then the eared flanges will be put in place with Loctite.
Here we have all the pieces. The manifold has been assembled. It has also had a careful going over with a file to gently round the edges. Then a good zoom on the jewelers buffer. At the top is the eared flange that will eventually be threaded and screwed into the cylinders. The large 1/8" rod sticking out will be the casting sprue. Later when the castings arrive it will be use to hold the part while the other end is threaded. Then it will be parted off. There are two of these, one for the top, and one for the bottom of the low pressure air cylinder. The manifold will bolt to these with #00-90 brass model bolts.
Here is the manifold mounted to a sprue, prior to mold making. This part will get several coats of primer. Primer will also be dabbed on here and there with a tooth pick to form small fillets. Then more primer. This little manifold is an exercise in making shapes. And then sticking them together as I have spoken about before. Try to break the part down into shapes that can be made in your shop. Sometimes liberties must be taken. Form is more important than perfect scale. Remember, perfect is the enemy of finished.See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
You never cease to amaze me Jack. Where you born with Eagle eyes or something lol.
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
So creative!
Thanks for sharing.
RussN
Thanks for sharing.
RussN
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
It's beautiful snowy day here in the high mountain desert. A great day to be inside the warm dry shop. Yesterday the compressor shields got some attention. These were made some time ago and had gotten tarnished so they were popped in the blast cabinet and freshened up. Then the compressors were fitted up. They are held in place with #2-56 studs and nuts. On the prototype all this baloney was cast steel. Here they are represented by silver soldered assemblies. Here is the whole mess stuck together with the cross compound compressors in place. As the mount for the compressors and shields was part of the frame the challenge was to have it look so when in place.
Happy Model Building
Jack
It's beautiful snowy day here in the high mountain desert. A great day to be inside the warm dry shop. Yesterday the compressor shields got some attention. These were made some time ago and had gotten tarnished so they were popped in the blast cabinet and freshened up. Then the compressors were fitted up. They are held in place with #2-56 studs and nuts. On the prototype all this baloney was cast steel. Here they are represented by silver soldered assemblies. Here is the whole mess stuck together with the cross compound compressors in place. As the mount for the compressors and shields was part of the frame the challenge was to have it look so when in place.
Happy Model Building
Jack
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Yesterday a start was made on the air filters for the cross compound air compressors. The 1941 Loco Cyclopedia had a nice illustration of an air filter as we have here. Notice the bosses for the mounting bolts have a X shape. These will be drilled and tapped #0-80 The top portions were first to be made. Two are needed for the loco, but three are being made so one can be used for a master. Here is a start on the X shaped bosses. These were made of 5/32" round brass and a 5/64" round nose cutter was used to give them an X shape. And here is the X shape. And here a couple have been plunked down for a look. They were sliced off with a thin slitting saw. And here is as far as progress progressed yesterday. Now the center portion can be made. It will be threaded for 5/32" MTP. Then all will be silver soldered together. These are bracketed to the compressor mount casting on the pilot. Just a small detail of an endless gaggle of details for the engine. See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
Yesterday a start was made on the air filters for the cross compound air compressors. The 1941 Loco Cyclopedia had a nice illustration of an air filter as we have here. Notice the bosses for the mounting bolts have a X shape. These will be drilled and tapped #0-80 The top portions were first to be made. Two are needed for the loco, but three are being made so one can be used for a master. Here is a start on the X shaped bosses. These were made of 5/32" round brass and a 5/64" round nose cutter was used to give them an X shape. And here is the X shape. And here a couple have been plunked down for a look. They were sliced off with a thin slitting saw. And here is as far as progress progressed yesterday. Now the center portion can be made. It will be threaded for 5/32" MTP. Then all will be silver soldered together. These are bracketed to the compressor mount casting on the pilot. Just a small detail of an endless gaggle of details for the engine. See You In The Funny Pages...
Jack
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
The compressors are mostly finished. When the manifold, and lubricator castings arrive from the foundry they will be chemically blackened and assembled. Here are the filters and mounts. Here is a view of the compressors on the engine. You can just see the filters peeking out between the compressor mount castings. When the manifold castings arrive the filters will be piped up. Much of the piping on 5344 will be either 5/32", 1/8", or 3/32". Much of the 3/32" piping will be non functional but will still require unions. This is so it can be dis assembled for painting and servicing. Here is a union that was made as a test piece. The thread is #8-48. The union nut is 3/16" over the flats and the smaller hex is 7/64". This union is hex, any additional unions will be octagonal. This union was just a test to see if I could make them. I wanted them to be as small as possible and they still look quite oversize for 3/32" pipe to me. I think I will see if I can shorten the length of the union nut. See Ya' Later Alligator
Jack
The compressors are mostly finished. When the manifold, and lubricator castings arrive from the foundry they will be chemically blackened and assembled. Here are the filters and mounts. Here is a view of the compressors on the engine. You can just see the filters peeking out between the compressor mount castings. When the manifold castings arrive the filters will be piped up. Much of the piping on 5344 will be either 5/32", 1/8", or 3/32". Much of the 3/32" piping will be non functional but will still require unions. This is so it can be dis assembled for painting and servicing. Here is a union that was made as a test piece. The thread is #8-48. The union nut is 3/16" over the flats and the smaller hex is 7/64". This union is hex, any additional unions will be octagonal. This union was just a test to see if I could make them. I wanted them to be as small as possible and they still look quite oversize for 3/32" pipe to me. I think I will see if I can shorten the length of the union nut. See Ya' Later Alligator
Jack
- Greg_Lewis
- Posts: 3021
- Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 2:44 pm
- Location: Fresno, CA
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Agreed. The nut is too long. The finger looks OK, though. Prototypically grubby.
Greg Lewis, Prop.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Eyeball Engineering — Home of the dull toolbit.
Our motto: "That looks about right."
Celebrating 35 years of turning perfectly good metal into bits of useless scrap.
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Your little Hudson, in all it's bare metal glory looks like, A Knight of Old.
Excellent Jack!
Excellent Jack!
- Charles T. McCullough
- Posts: 402
- Joined: Fri Apr 06, 2007 2:25 pm
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
There is no jeweler that has ever made anything so beautiful as the brass fittings of a steam loco.
- JBodenmann
- Posts: 3865
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2003 1:37 pm
- Location: Tehachapi, California
Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
Hello My Friends
Thank you Greg, Partime, and Charles. Your kind words are greatly appreciated. I have often referred to model locomotive bits and pieces as jewelry. Locomotive jewelry, not only beautiful in its own right, but must often be functional too. Sometimes referred to as "little baloney".
Here is some little baloney I have been fiddling with. I will be piping the left hand injector delivery line. This will be disguized as the exhaust steam piping from the stoker engine that ran forward. This piping also had the stoker reversing valve. Here is an illustration of one. Live stead entered through the pipe on the left. Two pipes led out to the stoker engine. One to the top, and one to the bottom of the stoker. The valve reversed these two pipes to change from forward to reverse. Exhaust steam exited the valve out the bottom. Here is a reversing valve casting. I will not be using this as a reversing valve, but as a check valve for the injector hidden in the stoker engine. The only thing is that the check valve will be upside down and will require a return spring on the poppet. Little baloney, too much fun.
Jack
Thank you Greg, Partime, and Charles. Your kind words are greatly appreciated. I have often referred to model locomotive bits and pieces as jewelry. Locomotive jewelry, not only beautiful in its own right, but must often be functional too. Sometimes referred to as "little baloney".
Here is some little baloney I have been fiddling with. I will be piping the left hand injector delivery line. This will be disguized as the exhaust steam piping from the stoker engine that ran forward. This piping also had the stoker reversing valve. Here is an illustration of one. Live stead entered through the pipe on the left. Two pipes led out to the stoker engine. One to the top, and one to the bottom of the stoker. The valve reversed these two pipes to change from forward to reverse. Exhaust steam exited the valve out the bottom. Here is a reversing valve casting. I will not be using this as a reversing valve, but as a check valve for the injector hidden in the stoker engine. The only thing is that the check valve will be upside down and will require a return spring on the poppet. Little baloney, too much fun.
Jack
Last edited by rmac on Sat Apr 01, 2023 10:18 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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- Bill Shields
- Posts: 10589
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Re: 3/4" Scale J1e
I have seen less detailed models in the Smithsonian
I never cease to be amazed
I never cease to be amazed
Too many things going on to bother listing them.