Railroad Warehouse 2.8.2 Mikado Logger Build

[Odyknuck]

The paint was dry on the brake linage, so I assembled them. The bottom of the Shoulder bolts do not have threads, so I added flat nuts under the Nylocks to give them full thread engagement. I tried flat washers however they compressed enough to clamp the links together. Also got the surface rust removed from the drivers and got them painted up. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the bottom together and flip the chassis to start on the topside work.

[Odyknuck]

Did some experimenting with bluing in lieu of painting today. The brake arms are small parts to try it on.

[Bill Shields]

from a can of 'bluing' or did you heat and then dunk in old motor oil?

[Odyknuck]

The brake arm mounting brackets are made of brass or bronze and pull inward when a bolt is installed too far. So, I came up with a method to stop the bolt from bending the bracket. I installed locktited 10-32 set screws to a specific depth. I will use the same method to attach the tops of the brake arms to the linkage to allow some play when the Loco is running down the track.

[Odyknuck]

from a can of 'bluing' or did you heat and then dunk in old motor oil?

I used the bottle of cold blue shown in the pic

[Bill Shields]

Oops...missed that as was not standing on my head as I viewed the pic.

If you want to experiment - heat stuff in a small pan over a torch or gas stove, then toss it into a jar of oil dirty motor oil. Careful of oil catching fire...

Works well on small parts and hardware.

Bigger parts I put in a discarded frying pan that my wife is still looking for.

.

[Odyknuck]

Don't worry Bill, I won't rat you out as I too have a few utensils my wife simply cannot find lol. I may have to try the oil methods. How hot for the steel?

[Bill Shields]

Do not know on temp.. or if I ever knew, do not remember.

I just heat them in an old coal shovel using my propane torch -> then dump them into the oil..

Have not melted the shovel....so

[Odyknuck]

I installed the drivers and some of the springs today along with the brake system. I discovered I may have some clearance Issues with the brake linkage bolts. The Brake cylinder is a 1/4" above the rail. I installed the shoulder bolts with heads on top in case a nut fell off. Unfortunately, they hang down pretty far. I can gain 3/16" clearance by mounting them with the heads down. First pic is the fulcrum arm with nuts down. Second pic is with nuts up. And here I thought I was done for now on the bottom side!

[Bill Shields]

Food for thought (because been there done that)

What happens when you derail?

Happens to everyone..not if -> when. Nary a loco has never been off the rails at one time or another.

Frequently happens at turnouts (switches)...where there is lots of stuff between the rails other than air.

With the flange on the tie -> what happens as the loco moves forward? What is below the railhead?

Will your loco tear up the track so that the track is unusable?

I have been at more than one club weekend meet where just such happened an a dozen trains were stuck as a result.

Something to consider as you ponder your next move

[NP317]

And when your driver springs and equalization raise a driver to the limit, what might hit down below?
And when a nut comes off letting a bolt drop down to the track?
I still prefer vertical pins held by cotters and not nuts.
Fun stuff.
RussN

[Odyknuck]

I agree with both of you, and I do need to do something about it as it is an issue of concern. I could the heads off the shoulder bolts and weld them onto the links however that would put the nuts on top. With using locktite on the nuts I really do not thing they would come loose. Or I could replace the shoulder buts with clevis pins however that would make the linkage on the sloppy side. There is no good way to rearrange the linkage to raise them up. Curious Russ, how far does your linkage hang down?