Propane Burner options

[cbrew]

How about something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Stanbroil-Liquid ... =8-74&th=1

I tried that devise, it is not designed for a clean burn, these fire places have a yellow flame design,

[Odyknuck]

Ok, good to know. So, did you make or buy yours? If ypu bought it, source?

[cbrew]

I made mine, using an off the shelf bell reducer, some scrap steel, brass fittings.
I was amazed how well this worked with very little tweeting.

[Odyknuck]

How do you control the combustion air?

[cbrew]

no need to, maybe it was dumb luck, but as you can see the frame is near perfect and the in-boiler performance is almost scary.

[NP317]

How about something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Stanbroil-Liquid ... =8-74&th=1

I'm not sure what you were envisioning.

If you are referring to the single jet at the air-intake of the mixing tube on the Al V.R.-type burners, that Amazon burner will not work.
The long tapered mixing tube (Al.s design) allows sufficient air to entrain with the single gas jet, before entering the manifold and burner tubes.
The jet shown (on Amazon) provides air/fuel mixing only for that one jet.

On my Al Von R.-designed & built Mikado propane burner, the gas jet is simply brass hex stock turned and drilled with the specified hole for propane injection, and threaded for the jet-holder that Al Von R. machined. I turned 4 different-hole-size jets and exchanged them until I got the flames in the firebox to be blue, ie complete combustion. The air-control disc (rotate for adjustment) ended up being almost fully open to get the correct combustion mix.
A .pdf of Al's burner head design is attached. The gas jet is labeled "Orifice Spud."
I found that adjustment was required of the air/fuel mixture once the burner was installed in the firebox, with the limited air surrounding the burner tubes. Al V.R's design allows that adjustment.
The burner you referenced from Amazon would not allow such adjustments, that I can determine.

RussN

[Odyknuck]

Well technically our burners are a single burner design and I viewed that as a single feed to it. Cbrew already tried one with bad results, so it's out of the picture. I printed your PDF for my records. I also ran across this piece that could be used as a base except it's BSP and not NPT.
https://www.amazon.com/Meter-Star-Alumi ... 17-catcorr

[Odyknuck]

Or maybe this one:


https://www.amazon.com/FMP-158-1133-Mix ... IDOY&psc=1

[Bill Shields]

A pipe reducer as shown previously works well.

The likelihood that you will need to restrict the air is slim

[Odyknuck]

I agree however factory offerings already have the threaded cross bar and would be less work to get operational.

[Bill Shields]

If you are concerned about the work related to building the venturi, then you are in for a shock when you start drilling holes and welding the actual burner.

The venturi is maybe 2% of the total job...and before it is over and you need a different size orifice than what is provided by 'the factory' unit -> you may well have more work than if you started from a proven design.

What they do not tell you is the orifice size and do not show how it may be changed. It may be just drilled into the casting...or hopefully in a screw in plug.. but you do not know.

Without that information, I would consider it the proverbial pig in a poke.

[Odyknuck]

Bill it's not a matter of concern, its the convenance of a readymade part. These are just castings with an 1/8" NPT inlet and a 3/4" NPT outlet. The orifice is whatever you want it to be. You could simply make one as shown in the diagram or buy a pair of these and drill them to whatever you like.
They come with a .035 diameter orifice hole.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R1 ... FLXJ&psc=1